Building a cedar surf board

[D&P Powell]

JohnnieMo,

I have been following this thread since the beginning. Awesome to see the end product. Very COOL. Quick question - I saw your setup of the boat. Since we have similar models (we have a 14 Z1 VX), was wondering if you are using a wake device (if so which one), and what did you do to get to the 1300 in the one locker? Thanks in advance.

[JohnnieMo]

JohnnieMo,

I have been following this thread since the beginning. Awesome to see the end product. Very COOL. Quick question - I saw your setup of the boat. Since we have similar models (we have a 14 Z1 VX), was wondering if you are using a wake device (if so which one), and what did you do to get to the 1300 in the one locker? Thanks in advance.

I am running a home made suck gate in those videos. I compared it to a Mission Delta and the results were exactly the same.

I bought the initial run of Wake9 Z1 bags back in 2014 I think it was. He published the Z3 version as 1450lbs, so my guess is 1300 on the Z1 version. You can buy from other vendors as well I'm sure. It fills the entire locker up to the top, and stretches forward under the seats. To be honest I have no idea how anyone can surf behind an early Z1/Z3 without upgraded ballast. Unless you are 150lbs maybe...

In a related but unrelated note, I'm not sure how guys are able to equally weight these Z hulls and get a surfable wave with a suck gate. I find the boat points straight up in the air and doesn't move. The wave is a frothy mess. It doesn't matter whether I run half weight in the back or more.... the wave is awful.

[D&P Powell]

To be honest I have no idea how anyone can surf behind an early Z1/Z3 without upgraded ballast. Unless you are 150lbs maybe...

In a related but unrelated note, I'm not sure how guys are able to equally weight these Z hulls and get a surfable wave with a suck gate. I find the boat points straight up in the air and doesn't move. The wave is a frothy mess. It doesn't matter whether I run half weight in the back or more.... the wave is awful.

I agree, I definitely think you need the upgraded ballast. We have a MLA bag on the STBD and 200 in lead (So I am guessing total is somewhere close to 1300 as well), and elevatedconcepts old Z3 bag filled up about 80% with 150 in lead on Port. We also placed 300 lead (150 a side) in the bow. We have used a few different wake surf devices. In this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pURLn4mqnLM we are using the Swell Wake. Our boats wave is at the 1:21, 1:53, and 2:21 mark. It is a little frothy, but we discovered later it was just because the device wasn't deep enough on the hull. We get up to speed (10.8 seems to be a sweet spot with this set up) and plane out just fine, but we cant add any more weight until we get a new prop (anyone selling a 1235 for 1/2 off? LOL). I think you might be surprised how much better the wake is with push and length if you equal weight it (or close to it in our case) and place more weight (with lead) in the front. I am not saying the video shows a perfect wave, but were getting there and very happy with it so far.

[JohnnieMo]

I found that there is only one place to attach the suck gate and that is the very bottom corner. It is made for it really. It performs great down there. Where are you attaching yours?

As for weight, I have hesitated so far to go with lead just because I am near the max GCVWR of my truck already. I don't like the thought of hauling around dead weight all the time. It's likely only a matter of time before I shed that concern. I do agree that the nose seems to want more weight. Next time out I'll put my biggest buddies up front and see what happens.

What prop are you running now? I have a (rebuilt) 1433 and I think I am reaching the limit of its capabilities.

[D&P Powell]

We are also attaching ours in the very bottom corner. We had it up higher before. Lesson learned. We only tow our boat about 5 miles each way, so we havent worried about the added weight. I will probably have to open up the bow though and remove it before heading to the West Coast Reunion (about 2 hours drive from where it is stored now). We are still running the stock prop, but I have been told we will need to go with a 1235 to handle the extra weight we want to add. Perhaps a winter purchase/upgrade.

[JohnnieMo]

We are also attaching ours in the very bottom corner. We had it up higher before. Lesson learned. We only tow our boat about 5 miles each way, so we havent worried about the added weight. I will probably have to open up the bow though and remove it before heading to the West Coast Reunion (about 2 hours drive from where it is stored now). We are still running the stock prop, but I have been told we will need to go with a 1235 to handle the extra weight we want to add. Perhaps a winter purchase/upgrade.

D&P - I did try evenly weighting the boat, with about 800 per side. You are correct that the wave improved. That meant I could attach my suck gate up on the coloured contour. It orients it to be a bit downward facing. I found the wave improved even more when I did this. I get a lot a bit of spray now because it's higher up, but the wave improved.

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Here is another video of the Alberta crew surfing. A lot of time on Woody.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSHYBSBqmxM

Feedback generally seems to be the board has a lot push. It is hard to lose a wave with this thing. I'm not sure if that is due to its shape or its construction. Also, it tends to work better for larger riders as smaller guys can't sink the back end enough to pop up the front. If I built more I might taper the rear a bit for a smaller rider.

[alexxx84962]

Thanks for such a useful information guys!
I have recently purchased a new Makita KP0810 hand planer, and now I how everything for making the perfect surfboard.
Can't wait to start and share with you all my first results!

[JohnnieMo]

Just curious if there is an appetite for guys to buy boards like mine.... I was pondering doing a limited "production run" of them over the winter, however I need to gauge interest. My plan was to build the core, and leave exterior finishing, rails, fin selection/installation and traction pad to the buyer. From what I've learned, the placement of the fins and pad, as well as the rail shape, really make a difference to the performance of the board. And I think guys like to do the finishing themselves, as that is the most rewarding part. This is what the core would roughly look like, with some room for size alteration.

board.jpg

Anyways, if you are interested, let me know. It's a lot of work, and certainly not something I'd make much money at, but it's a fun winter project that I would do for fellow interested owners. If I can get 4 or more, I'd strongly consider.