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    Building a cedar surf board

    Well in traditional JohnnieMo fashion I decided to tackle another project I have no experience nor knowledge on how to do. I was inspired by the hardwod wake surf board I saw (in pictures) at the Tige owners reunion a few years ago made by Tpoaz Surfer. The reports were that it was a blast, but extremely heavy. I had an idea on how I could construct a cedar surf board to still get the cool effect of wood but hopefully make it more light weight.

    I started by buying up some cedar decking from the cedar store. I started by looking at "clear" kiln dried wood but it would have been about $900 in the wood alone. In the end they had some old 6' long decking that I figured I could make work.

    There are two ways to do this... either by steaming and bending the wood, or by cutting it to shape. My research determined that kiln dried wood does not tend to bend well, so I thought I would go for the cutting route.

    I picked up 30 1x4x72 sticks of cedar and got started.



    I decided to use my 7 year old Ronix Koal Fish as a basic template. To this day I love this board, and I feel that if I take this shape and enlarge it a bit, we will have a winner.



    Here is an idea of what it might look like. Now I just need to remove all the wood I don't need



    And here they all all cut down to remove the tapering and bad edges



    And now begins the clamping:



    I will cut them to shape in pairs to save some time. I was hoping to go with threes, but they won't quite fit through my drill and saw (you'll see).

    However I do have a couple questions:

    - Where can I buy surf fins and traction pads? I want to go with a thruster setup. I would prefer the screw hole design as it will make it easier to mount them. But I need a 4" to 5" for the middle one. Any recommendations?



    As for the shape - a lot of wood boards and big cruising boards are round. Should I be considering a round nose and tail like this Ronix?



    Or this one..



    I haven't had a lot of experience on different boards, so any feedback is welcome. In general I'm looking for a straight ahead cruiser, that is good for guys over 250lbs. I know this won't come close to my fiberglass boards in terms of performance. I'm doing this for the cool factor. And if it really sucks to surf, it will look great on the wall.
    Last edited by JohnnieMo; 03-06-2017, 06:24 AM.

    #2
    Subscribed!!! I have allways wanted to try this!

    Comment


      #3
      Check out this site for your traction pads

      http://agendasurf.com/

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by dilligaf622 View Post
        Subscribed!!! I have allways wanted to try this!
        Me too. I had to dig around but I found the thread that inspired me:
        http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ght=solid+wood

        Goes all the way back to 2013. Beautiful board he made. The shape and fin are of interest to me.



        Originally posted by dilligaf622 View Post
        Check out this site for your traction pads

        http://agendasurf.com/
        Thanks. I'll sniff around. As always I need to find vendors who ship to Canada.

        Comment


          #5
          Check out Shuswap ski and board, they have great service and could probably order something in.

          Definitely an awesome project! Can't wait to see more. Only if I had more time to do something like this.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by JohnnieMo View Post
            Me too. I had to dig around but I found the thread that inspired me:
            http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ght=solid+wood

            Goes all the way back to 2013. Beautiful board he made. The shape and fin are of interest to me.





            Thanks. I'll sniff around. As always I need to find vendors who ship to Canada.
            Dave built a couple redwood longboards, I think 3 in total. 1 solid wood, 2 chambered out. The first two I believe he just oiled the boards, the most recent he glassed it.

            Traction:http://chaossurfco.com/traction/

            You can hit me up for any help. I've built many wooden board, cedar, redwood, koa, balsa, paulownia wood....

            I would suggest starting the a basic longboard. Don't do a ronix duke. Terrible, terrible boards.

            A longboard will save you from removing as much material as you will have to try to recreate the koal or other thin shortboard.

            Material removable is going to the be bulk of your work. The other thing to remember, is a power planer is your friend. A hand planer is also good for smoothing, a sander is just for finishing, not shaping. The difference in density in wood causes all sort of problems if you try to shape with a sander.

            You can find screw in fins all over the net, but I would suggest using actually boxes. It will allow more options.

            Nick

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the info Chaos. Your perspective is quite helpful. I've been hesitant about going forward with the Ronix design, just because I've never seen anyone else do it. I like your logic and will proceed as such. I took a look at your website.... something more like your Spooner would be a better design.

              As for fins, I found the FCS "round" boxes would be easy to install. It is easier than chiseling out a channel for a conventional box. I've never changed the fins on any of my boards yet, so I'm not sure I will with this one. I think a large center fin with a couple smaller outside fins would be okay. What size do you suggest?

              As for shaping and material removal, I think I'm taking a different approach than most people. It would be typical to side-laminate the boards together - akin to making a deck or a hardwood floor. You would then need to 'shape' the board to get your rocker etc. However I am turning the boards on edge, and pre-shaping them in the band saw. So material removal is drastically less from conventional planing or sanding. I will just be making them all the same. I am going to great a template and then cut each pair of boards to match the template. They should be close enough to bring to completion. The upside to this approach is far less material removal.

              Here is the first template I created to match the rocker of my Ronix Koal. The major question I have is how thick is the right thickness? This one is 9/8".





              My last trick is to cut weight. I plan to hollow each pair of "interior" boards in the drill press. I think I can effectively remove 30 to 40% of the board's weight by doing this. I'll weigh it before and after to check. I've never seen this approach before, but I think it will work.

              Again - thanks for the feedback. I'm truly making this up as I go.

              ps - if you have a fin and box selection, I'll happily buy from you. Traction pads look good as well.
              Last edited by JohnnieMo; 03-07-2017, 03:10 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Looking good, makes me want to give it a try. I'll be following your progress. Good luck!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by JohnnieMo View Post
                  Thanks for the info Chaos. Your perspective is quite helpful. I've been hesitant about going forward with the Ronix design, just because I've never seen anyone else do it. I like your logic and will proceed as such. I took a look at your website.... something more like your Spooner would be a better design.

                  As for fins, I found the FCS "round" boxes would be easy to install. It is easier than chiseling out a channel for a conventional box. I've never changed the fins on any of my boards yet, so I'm not sure I will with this one. I think a large center fin with a couple smaller outside fins would be okay. What size do you suggest?

                  As for shaping and material removal, I think I'm taking a different approach than most people. It would be typical to side-laminate the boards together - akin to making a deck or a hardwood floor. You would then need to 'shape' the board to get your rocker etc. However I am turning the boards on edge, and pre-shaping them in the band saw. So material removal is drastically less from conventional planing or sanding. I will just be making them all the same. I am going to great a template and then cut each pair of boards to match the template. They should be close enough to bring to completion. The upside to this approach is far less material removal.

                  Here is the first template I created to match the rocker of my Ronix Koal. The major question I have is how thick is the right thickness? This one is 9/8".





                  My last trick is to cut weight. I plan to hollow each pair of "interior" boards in the drill press. I think I can effectively remove 30 to 40% of the board's weight by doing this. I'll weigh it before and after to check. I've never seen this approach before, but I think it will work.

                  Again - thanks for the feedback. I'm truly making this up as I go.

                  ps - if you have a fin and box selection, I'll happily buy from you. Traction pads look good as well.
                  Yep, looks like you got it, that is exactly what you want to do. I can set you up with FCS plugs or other style boxes. Yes, you can use a hole saw or a fornster bit for FCS plugs, which is easy. You just have to make sure you get them set right and centered, so the tabs go in. The same issue to tackle with screw in fins.

                  Typically wooden boards that are going to be chambered, are 'dummie glued' together, rough to close to finished shaped, then split apart to chamber out.

                  But you can also remove bulk material with a band saw or zig saw from each plank before glue up and chambering. Just requires a bit more attention when doing the final glue up.

                  Nick

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Chaos View Post
                    Yep, looks like you got it, that is exactly what you want to do. I can set you up with FCS plugs or other style boxes. Yes, you can use a hole saw or a fornster bit for FCS plugs, which is easy. You just have to make sure you get them set right and centered, so the tabs go in. The same issue to tackle with screw in fins.

                    Typically wooden boards that are going to be chambered, are 'dummie glued' together, rough to close to finished shaped, then split apart to chamber out.

                    But you can also remove bulk material with a band saw or zig saw from each plank before glue up and chambering. Just requires a bit more attention when doing the final glue up.

                    Nick
                    Great! Sounds like I'm not totally off base.

                    Can you suggest an ideal thickness for the board? The thicker the board, the more material I can extract. Basically it means a thicker board has the potential to weigh the same as the thin one, but will have added buoyancy. I'm just not sure if a thicker board becomes more brutish to surf. This design I have above is 9/8" to start, but likely finishing closer to <1". It takes me zero extra effort to make it thicker at this point.
                    Last edited by JohnnieMo; 03-07-2017, 09:28 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Subscribed as well, with my woodworking shop I can easily see myself trying this out. Good luck, looks good thus far.
                      Paul Middlemore

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You are probably good with those dimensions. In all honesty a wooden board ride quite a bit different than a foam core board. You will want to keep the volume down as much as possible. A lot of the ride characteristics will be from the rail shape and fins + fin placement.

                        Nick

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Little bit of progress today. Ordered up the FCS fin plugs, thruster fins and traction mat from Chaos. Then I did some work truing up my freshly glued boards.



                          I ran the pairs through the table saw and chop saw to get two sides completely true. Now I need to establish the overall shape. Based on comments here I think I will switch to more of a long board style. Round nose, rounder tail.

                          Should have more progress this weekend

                          Comment


                            #14
                            A few little updates today. I spent some time creating my shape. On Chaos's advice, I went with more of a long board shape. I laid it out on building paper (in half) then cut it out to create a full design. I might make a few tweaks, but I think this is what I'll go with generally.









                            If you stare at the block of wood long enough, you can imagine the surf board in the middle somewhere.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Def contact Dave Roush... look him up on Instagram.

                              Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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