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22Ve Wakeboaring Setup

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    22Ve Wakeboaring Setup

    I'm starting to wonder if I am ever going to be able to pull of the wake to wake jump. So, I am 5'10", 215 lbs and ride a LF Trip 142. The rope is a no stretch and I ride about 65' out at about 21 mph with Taps on 4 -5 (no ballast). When I carve out I feel like I get out far enough, and it takes a while for the tension to come back into the line before I can carve back in. I take a progressive edge in, pop, and land about 3/4 of the way across the wakes.

    Maybe I am just too damn fat to make it across? If there are any other 22Ve owners out there willing to share their wakeboarding setups to help me out, I would appreciate the info!

    #2
    I dont own a 22ve but I can tell you that my brother, 6'3" 230-240#, on a 143 can clear our wake with ease on a DDrive no ballast. My question would be is how wide is your wake since I have no experiance with a 22Ve? Shorten your carve out by a few degrees so you keep tension and speed. What are you doing with your legs and stance when coming back for the jump? Soft legs stiff legs? Are you getting very much air or just skimming across the top?

    More Ve owners will jump in soon I bet but sounds more to me like your riding style or agressiveness vs the wake itself or your weight.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Ruger761 View Post
      I dont own a 22ve but I can tell you that my brother, 6'3" 230-240#, on a 143 can clear our wake with ease on a DDrive no ballast. My question would be is how wide is your wake since I have no experiance with a 22Ve? Shorten your carve out by a few degrees so you keep tension and speed. What are you doing with your legs and stance when coming back for the jump? Soft legs stiff legs? Are you getting very much air or just skimming across the top?

      More Ve owners will jump in soon I bet but sounds more to me like your riding style or agressiveness vs the wake itself or your weight.
      That is what I am trying to determine - I would say that the wake on the 22Ve, at 21 mph, is still pretty wide. On the approach, I have my knees slightly bent and spring up just a bit (stiff leg) when I hit the wake. I would say that I get decent air - maybe 3 - 4'. I think I should be further out (75') and maybe up around 22 mph to get the wake narrower, but still be able to hit it the wake just as it is transitioning from the peak to the wash.

      I don't know, I think I am carving out far enough and taking a hard enough edge in, but maybe I just have to push it harder.

      Comment


        #4
        If you think the wake is still wide shorten your rope 5' right now (long as it doesnt pull you too close to prop wash) vs speeding the boat up until you get the hang of clearing the wake. You dont have to fully carve out all the way until your even with the boat, about a 3/4 carve distance will be enough and keeps tension/speed up for you. Then try to cut back hard to get more speed going into the wake vs trying to pop off of it. This will reduce your air some but give you more travel speed to get fully over the wake. Once you get use to it then you could go to a longer rope with more boat speed. Are you running any ballast? Bigger wake does make things a lot easier.

        Comment


          #5
          That may be the answer. I will try that next time I am out. How fast do you usually run?

          Currently the only ballast I have is the 1200# sac from Mike's Liquid Audio on the port locker. I am thinking that I may need to get the one for the starboard locker ordered so I can partially fill them for wakeboarding and also be able to surf goofy.

          Comment


            #6
            I would also say to shorten your rope by 5 feet, you may not even have to speed up. Tige wakes are a bit wider then some other wake boats. You shouldn't have to add ballast yet to clear the wake but it would help.

            The biggest issue I see when people cant clear the wake is line tension. They take a hard approach in but then left off as soon as they hit the wake. Make sure to hold it all the way in to the wake, and to stand tall at the top of the wake. Also make sure your arms aren't stretched out in front of you, you want to keep your elbows down and bent. Like anything else its just commitment and practice.

            Comment


              #7
              Ve owner here, I am a little taller and little heavier than you and have been able to clear on a stock wake with a LF Trip 146 toeside. Toeside was what was natural feeling for me crossing the wake. Late last year I started to switch and work on my heelside, much easier than toeside. I agree with what the others are saying in shorting up the rope a little to start with. I ride around 22 mph. My biggest issue is that I naturally absorb the wake when I come into it. I need to really focus on coming in, holding the rope in and pushing tall off the wake. I found that going out only 5-10 feet then hitting the wake conditioned me when I went out wider and came in harder.

              I still have my trip but I have taken the removable fins out, don't know if that helps much but it makes it ride more like my 143 Harley that I have.

              There are several on here that are pretty good boarders and if you dare post a video you will get some positive feed back. There are several good youtube videos to watch as well. IIRC learnwake has several good one. The Book is another good video collection to watch.

              I think the wake on the Ve is wider. I was able to jump my brothers Centurion, buddies Ski Nautique, and buddies SAN before mine.

              Comment


                #8
                PS you can always switch to surfing full time, its a blast.

                Comment


                  #9
                  09 22Ve owner here and 80% of my riding time is wakeboarding and 20% surfing... its true the tige wake is a bit wider than most of the others, but when used properly it can boot you just as well as all of the others. The taps plate can be your biggest advocate or your worst enemy(if used improperly). When you ride the plate needs to be adjusted to where the roll in the wake (Where it turns to wash and no longer clean lip) is just 1 foot behind where the board touches the wake when crossing, this gives the cleanest wake and best launch point.

                  That being said and no disrespect to you, but the reason you are not making it across is probably rider fault or technique.

                  My advise follows the lines of some of the others, the best way to learn to clear W2W is to shorten rope and that gives a more narrow wake to clear. DONT SPEED UP OR LENGTHEN ROPE!!! That is always the wrong answer until you ride at a high level.

                  Rope tension is big time important and so is rider technique, Rope tension is important in that when you release the wake it pulls you across the wake while in the air. It acts as a spring and the more load you put on a spring the more recoil it can produce... So if you keep the rope "loaded" then when you release it will pull you across. Next thing is body... You dont need to start off going too hard or too fast, technique is the key. For a heelside cut (which most people prefer to learn first) cut out on your toes about 3/4 of the way, cut back in using a progressive edge and KEEP the board locked into the water and edge do not release or let up on the edge, you want to leave the wake at (scale of 1-10) a 6. hold a solid edge all the way through the top of the wake, on approach have knees bent and stand tall at the top of the wake, the timing will be something you get more used to as more practice goes in. Keep rope tight and pull into your hips to help pull you across the wake. Keep your weight centered and your feet under, land with chest over board and ride it out in same direction as you have been moving!! Good Luck and shoot some videos that will help us to help You!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
                    Ve owner here, I am a little taller and little heavier than you and have been able to clear on a stock wake with a LF Trip 146 toeside. Toeside was what was natural feeling for me crossing the wake. Late last year I started to switch and work on my heelside, much easier than toeside. I agree with what the others are saying in shorting up the rope a little to start with. I ride around 22 mph. My biggest issue is that I naturally absorb the wake when I come into it. I need to really focus on coming in, holding the rope in and pushing tall off the wake. I found that going out only 5-10 feet then hitting the wake conditioned me when I went out wider and came in harder.

                    I still have my trip but I have taken the removable fins out, don't know if that helps much but it makes it ride more like my 143 Harley that I have.

                    There are several on here that are pretty good boarders and if you dare post a video you will get some positive feed back. There are several good youtube videos to watch as well. IIRC learnwake has several good one. The Book is another good video collection to watch.

                    I think the wake on the Ve is wider. I was able to jump my brothers Centurion, buddies Ski Nautique, and buddies SAN before mine.
                    I was wondering when you were going to chime in on this one!

                    I've got The Book - it is very helpful. I can't even get through all of the stuff on the first DVD - but it has defintely helped me learn board control.

                    We see these guys behind the SANs and MCs and it looks like they are not trying near as hard as we are to clear it - so it got me thinking that the Tige has a wider wake than the other boats. Then again, it may just be that they are running 55 or 60' out and going a lot slower.

                    Thanks for the comments!!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jmhatchett View Post
                      09 22Ve owner here and 80% of my riding time is wakeboarding and 20% surfing... its true the tige wake is a bit wider than most of the others, but when used properly it can boot you just as well as all of the others. The taps plate can be your biggest advocate or your worst enemy(if used improperly). When you ride the plate needs to be adjusted to where the roll in the wake (Where it turns to wash and no longer clean lip) is just 1 foot behind where the board touches the wake when crossing, this gives the cleanest wake and best launch point.

                      That being said and no disrespect to you, but the reason you are not making it across is probably rider fault or technique.

                      My advise follows the lines of some of the others, the best way to learn to clear W2W is to shorten rope and that gives a more narrow wake to clear. DONT SPEED UP OR LENGTHEN ROPE!!! That is always the wrong answer until you ride at a high level.

                      Rope tension is big time important and so is rider technique, Rope tension is important in that when you release the wake it pulls you across the wake while in the air. It acts as a spring and the more load you put on a spring the more recoil it can produce... So if you keep the rope "loaded" then when you release it will pull you across. Next thing is body... You dont need to start off going too hard or too fast, technique is the key. For a heelside cut (which most people prefer to learn first) cut out on your toes about 3/4 of the way, cut back in using a progressive edge and KEEP the board locked into the water and edge do not release or let up on the edge, you want to leave the wake at (scale of 1-10) a 6. hold a solid edge all the way through the top of the wake, on approach have knees bent and stand tall at the top of the wake, the timing will be something you get more used to as more practice goes in. Keep rope tight and pull into your hips to help pull you across the wake. Keep your weight centered and your feet under, land with chest over board and ride it out in same direction as you have been moving!! Good Luck and shoot some videos that will help us to help You!!
                      Good points!!!! I noticed that sometimes when I hit the wake coming in after a big carve that my knees pull up - kind of like an ollie. I think this is a technique issue - like if I am carving in with too much weight on my back foot (bad habit formed from years of slalom skiing) and I compensate for the crappy release by pulling my feet up. I do notice that I have a lot better body position and much more control if I don't take a big approach. I actually only land a few feet short of where I land when I take a big approach.

                      Like you all, I am thinking this is a technique issue. Thanks for all the help guys!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Can you post a video of your self jumping the wake? We will know exactly whats wrong then.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Less cut out! You should be at max line tension when you hit the wake!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            A video will be most helpful. Then we can see what minor adjustments you need to make to easily clear the wake.Even a YouTube link is fine.
                            I do all my own stunt work. hey ya'll watch dis.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Next time we are out, we will take some video - just don't be too harsh on me.

                              So, if I am thinking about this correctly, I can maintain the 20mph or so and decrease the rope length so the line will have more tension when cutting back into the wake. This combined with the shorter distance between the wakes should help in clearing the W2W jump. As I get better and want to jump higher and further, the boat speed increases and the rope length grows to allow for a wider cut and therefore more speed cutting back into the wake. So the key is line tension and not loosing it.

                              You guys rock! Thanks for the help!

                              Comment

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