Add 2nd bilge pump in R23?

[Bamer]

2019 R23. With the convex hull, the lowest point of the hull appears to be just forward of the v-drive. This week was the first time I did a thorough wash of the interior using soap and garden hose while on the trailer. Trailer was parked with slight uphill slope. After final rinse of deck, I opened the floor and there was water 4-5in deep up to bottom of the drive. I thought some debris must be blocking the drain plug, checked it and was all clear and barely draining. Then I thought, bilge pump must be clogged, check it and no. The bilge pump is mounted such that you need to have the bow up quite a bit.

My main concern is flooding the bilge if the boat is outside like during a trip and gets a decent rain.

If I add a pump, I’d prefer not to put another hole on the hull, so I was thinking of adding a splitter to the current pumps thru-hull plumbing and having 1-way check valves for each pump. Second option would be to dump the water into the vent of the ballast system allowing the water to enter to a ballast bag. This too would need a 1-way valve.

Has anyone done this or observed this same issue?

Edit. I’m also concerned I develop a leak when sitting still and get 6-8inch of water before the factory bilge pump can do its thing....

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[Sublimer23]

Yes, I have. I was considering putting another t handle drain plug there and not bother with removing the rear one. So far I havent done anything. End of the season i'll put my floor jack under the cross supports on the front of the trailer and jack it up very high to empty all the water out for winter. Really seems like there should have been a drain there.

[Bamer]

Yes, I have. I was considering putting another t handle drain plug there and not bother with removing the rear one. So far I havent done anything. End of the season i'll put my floor jack under the cross supports on the front of the trailer and jack it up very high to empty all the water out for winter. Really seems like there should have been a drain there.

I doubt that will work for you as the prop guard will hit the ground pretty quick and you can’t get the bow high enough, unless you are already on a decent incline... the only way I can get the water out is to use a hand pump to get most out and then towels to get the rest. I’ve also considered adding a t-handle there too


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[chpthril]

Good chance your existing pump already has a check valve in the outlet. if not, they likely offer one. Then, just get a new pump that has one. Wire them in parallel and Y the outlets together prior to the thru-hull.

[Bamer]

Good chance your existing pump already has a check valve in the outlet. if not, they likely offer one. Then, just get a new pump that has one. Wire them in parallel and Y the outlets together prior to the thru-hull.

How would I know if the current pump has a check valve?

Do you recommend a particular pump?

Where might I find a Y and hose? Do you sell these pumps?

Do you see any issue wiring the electrical off the current pump so both pumps can be turned on via the touch 2 screen?

Any idea of what the hose inside diameter is? It looked smaller than the ballast hoses.


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[chpthril]

If you can see the exact brand/model pump, you can look the specs up. If it does not have one, good chance the manufacturer offers one for it.

Attwood, Johnson, Shurflo to name a few.

I would not wire it up without knowing what my circuit can handle, what the potential combined amp draw is going to. If in doubt, Use a relay to power the pumps, and use the original bilge B+ to trigger the relay.

My gut says 3/4 hose, but if you find the pump specs, it will tell you the hose barb outlet size.

[Sublimer23]

I doubt that will work for you as the prop guard will hit the ground pretty quick and you can’t get the bow high enough, unless you are already on a decent incline... the only way I can get the water out is to use a hand pump to get most out and then towels to get the rest. I’ve also considered adding a t-handle there too


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No it works I've done it a few times in my garage. I crank it up until the prop guard hits the floor. My trailer has 18s though so there may be extra clearance.

[freeheel4life]

We regularly tilt boats up to drain them. You can use the prop guard as a pivot point. I assure it is strong enough. Will tilt then up until front tires are off the ground. Have yet to see a trailer not hold up to this method.

[Bamer]

Where do you put the jack?


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[freeheel4life]

Under the front crossmember if you are using a jack, but we get to use our foklift at the tongue when at the shop.

[Bamer]

I’ll have to add a forklift to my Christmas list....lol. So is the tongue is like 6ft in the air?


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[freeheel4life]

Lol. A floor jack works fine. Works even better with a chunk of 4x4 or 6x6 between jack and crossmember....but then you have to pay really close attention and make sure the block doesn't roll!!

[Bamer]

I’ll just stick to my hand pump and towel...


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[cnote]

i just use a small dc shop vac to remove any extra water left in the bilge. Every time.

[Bamer]

My gut says 3/4 hose, but if you find the pump specs, it will tell you the hose barb outlet size.

I couldn’t get part# off the pump, but it look like a Rule LP900S but it has 3 size options for hose fittings....3/4" , 1" and 1 1/8". Looking at the boat yesterday, I am certain the hose size is the same as the ballast hoses, in fact it’s the same style hose. Even the through hulls are the same size. All that said,

Does anyone know what size the ballast hoses are?


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