hot trailer brakes

[fleetpaint]

has anyone had a problem w/ there trailer brakes getting too hot & throwing the bearing cover off & throwing grease all over the wheel?

[chpthril]

Is it just on 1 axle, the axle with the brakes?

Low tire pressure, sticking actuator, binding caliper slides or drum hardware are common causes. Once you confirm and repair the cause, it's probably wise to service the bearings and replace the seals. Clean the bearings real good so you can see if either the rollers, races, or spindles are gauled and replace as needed.

[fleetpaint]

yes, just on breaking axle. tire preasure good. the pads look fine. they are disc. it seems odd that the problem would bo on both sides?

[chpthril]

That kinda leans toward a sticking actuator or a collapsed flex line from the chassis to the axle.

With the wheels off the ground, spin the wheels. They should spin somewhat freely with only a little drag from the pads (less then drum brakes). If they are tight, crack the bleeder loose, if pressure bleeds off and the wheel now spins free, the system is holding pressure. I doubt you have to failed calipers, unless the fluid is contaminated.

[noworries]

My trailer does just as you describe.

I get the sense that when running canyons towing the trailer or heading down a long road to the ramp that the surge brakes can remain engaged somewhat even though you've let off the truck brakes. The trailer's weight seems enough to keep the brakes engaged, so you're in effect riding its brakes even though you've let off the truck's brakes.

I try to goose the throttle a bit after letting off the truck brakes to give a quick pull on the trailer to assure the actuator's released when I'm coasting down a hill between braking events. The trailer's brake system is on my list of winter tasks but perhaps this is just an unfortunate feature of surge brakes.

[fleetpaint]

thank you. i will tear into it tonight when i get home.

[fleetpaint]

noworries,
that's it! we were driving the apache trail. 20 miles of 1 lane 4mph steep canyon switch backs. the brakes seem to work fine. i wonder if there is an upgrade we can do to either the bearing system or brakes, or both?

[noworries]

noworries,
that's it! we were driving the apache trail. 20 miles of 1 lane 4mph steep canyon switch backs. the brakes seem to work fine. i wonder if there is an upgrade we can do to either the bearing system or brakes, or both?

There are "electric over hydraulic" retrofits in which the manual hydraulic actuator is replaced with a pump that is driven by an in-cab electric brake controller. There was some discussion of those here this summer, or a search will turn up the systems. As with normal electric brake systems you need a battery-based break-away system as well. It seems like a good idea, but I couldn't justify it.

[jake's02-22i]

the trailer for our 22i did the same thing last time we were coming back from the lake. we are going to take it to extreme next chance we get.

can someone change from the grease type berrings to the oil bath kind and are they any better?

[fleetpaint]

jake's

Thats a good question. I would upgrade if that would help!

[mneal]

That is big benefit of EOH brakes, any type surge brakes can do that in the right situation. Although you can retro fit the oil bath style, I personally do not like oil bath hubs, I have seen lots of them fail, fill with water and then you are done. Old fashioned greasing roller bearings with a high quality grease has work for a LONG time. Whatever type lubrication you are using (oil bath or grease) the dragging brakes will kill you, I have heard of people pining the actuator at the top of large down grades but IMHO that is not an ideal solution unless you are 100% sure you will not need brakes before you get to the bottom and pull the pin out. :-)

[MRMoffat1]

That kinda leans toward a sticking actuator or a collapsed flex line from the chassis to the axle.

With the wheels off the ground, spin the wheels. They should spin somewhat freely with only a little drag from the pads (less then drum brakes). If they are tight, crack the bleeder loose, if pressure bleeds off and the wheel now spins free, the system is holding pressure. I doubt you have to failed calipers, unless the fluid is contaminated.

Similar incident this year, happened Sept 7: Thru Vantage Gorge on I-90, coming down probably a 3 miles steep grade stretch at 70+, I did have to brake, assuming that might be where the lockup happened. Got to the bottom, did not know of the situation, continued to proceed back up the other side steep incline for about a 10 mile stretch, doing around 60mph. At about 5 miles going up the hill, I started noticing vibrations, engine temp started to increase, so slowed it down to 50, made it to the rest area at the top, got out, and immediately went back to look at the brakes. I could tell right away all brake windows were popped out (I have oil bath hubs with a window that is spring loaded to show oil level and relative oil pressure). Threw some water on the wheels and it turned to steam immediately. Very hot wheels. I reached under the front of the tounge, clicked on the brake release button, and went on my way - the brakes cooled back down and no more incidents.

Seems like something needs to be fixed. The brakes seemed to be locking up going up the hill. I sent an e-mail to Extreme Trailers, the Mfg. Any idea?

[fleetpaint]

I tore into the brakes yesterday & all looks good! everything is working like it should.
I think the surge brake system is designed to activate whenever the the toung of the trailer is pushing toward the tow vehicle. therfore the brakes can end up working overtime.
Has anyone done this convertion?
I already have the controler in my truck for pulling my utility trailer. but the utility trailer has a drum brake system. can you have a electric system on a disc brake trailer? Would there be an issue w/electric brakes & water?

[chpthril]

Depending on ones tow vehicle and it's tow capacity, you might consider putting in the lock-out key and using a low gear, letting the tow vehicle's engine do most of the breaking for a long down hill run.

[fleetpaint]

Depending on ones tow vehicle and it's tow capacity, you might consider putting in the lock-out key and using a low gear, letting the tow vehicle's engine do most of the breaking for a long down hill run.

I thought about that, but I realy do want the brakes to work when needed.