has anyone had a problem w/ there trailer brakes getting too hot & throwing the bearing cover off & throwing grease all over the wheel?
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Is it just on 1 axle, the axle with the brakes?
Low tire pressure, sticking actuator, binding caliper slides or drum hardware are common causes. Once you confirm and repair the cause, it's probably wise to service the bearings and replace the seals. Clean the bearings real good so you can see if either the rollers, races, or spindles are gauled and replace as needed.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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That kinda leans toward a sticking actuator or a collapsed flex line from the chassis to the axle.
With the wheels off the ground, spin the wheels. They should spin somewhat freely with only a little drag from the pads (less then drum brakes). If they are tight, crack the bleeder loose, if pressure bleeds off and the wheel now spins free, the system is holding pressure. I doubt you have to failed calipers, unless the fluid is contaminated.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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My trailer does just as you describe.
I get the sense that when running canyons towing the trailer or heading down a long road to the ramp that the surge brakes can remain engaged somewhat even though you've let off the truck brakes. The trailer's weight seems enough to keep the brakes engaged, so you're in effect riding its brakes even though you've let off the truck's brakes.
I try to goose the throttle a bit after letting off the truck brakes to give a quick pull on the trailer to assure the actuator's released when I'm coasting down a hill between braking events. The trailer's brake system is on my list of winter tasks but perhaps this is just an unfortunate feature of surge brakes.
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Originally posted by fleetpaint View Postnoworries,
that's it! we were driving the apache trail. 20 miles of 1 lane 4mph steep canyon switch backs. the brakes seem to work fine. i wonder if there is an upgrade we can do to either the bearing system or brakes, or both?
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That is big benefit of EOH brakes, any type surge brakes can do that in the right situation. Although you can retro fit the oil bath style, I personally do not like oil bath hubs, I have seen lots of them fail, fill with water and then you are done. Old fashioned greasing roller bearings with a high quality grease has work for a LONG time. Whatever type lubrication you are using (oil bath or grease) the dragging brakes will kill you, I have heard of people pining the actuator at the top of large down grades but IMHO that is not an ideal solution unless you are 100% sure you will not need brakes before you get to the bottom and pull the pin out. :-)
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostThat kinda leans toward a sticking actuator or a collapsed flex line from the chassis to the axle.
With the wheels off the ground, spin the wheels. They should spin somewhat freely with only a little drag from the pads (less then drum brakes). If they are tight, crack the bleeder loose, if pressure bleeds off and the wheel now spins free, the system is holding pressure. I doubt you have to failed calipers, unless the fluid is contaminated.
Seems like something needs to be fixed. The brakes seemed to be locking up going up the hill. I sent an e-mail to Extreme Trailers, the Mfg. Any idea?
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I tore into the brakes yesterday & all looks good! everything is working like it should.
I think the surge brake system is designed to activate whenever the the toung of the trailer is pushing toward the tow vehicle. therfore the brakes can end up working overtime.
Has anyone done this convertion?
I already have the controler in my truck for pulling my utility trailer. but the utility trailer has a drum brake system. can you have a electric system on a disc brake trailer? Would there be an issue w/electric brakes & water?
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Depending on ones tow vehicle and it's tow capacity, you might consider putting in the lock-out key and using a low gear, letting the tow vehicle's engine do most of the breaking for a long down hill run.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostDepending on ones tow vehicle and it's tow capacity, you might consider putting in the lock-out key and using a low gear, letting the tow vehicle's engine do most of the breaking for a long down hill run.
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