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    Prop change

    Andrew,
    I decided to take Brett's advice from a couple of years ago and change my prop to the Acme 515 (I think). I have had more trouble in getting the old stainless prop off that I ever expected. I bought the Pro-Puller but turns out, there isn't enough space between the prop and the strut to fit the puller in. Finally the shop and I together got the prop off with the Pro-puller that we modified, a second clamp to keep the pro-puller in place, heat and lots of hard hits with a large hammer. When we got the stainless prop off, I installed the Acme only to find out the space between the prop and the strut was now about 0.030". I was leaving for scout camp to teach all week so we ran it as is. I do like the new prop but one of the boys ran it through some rocks and bent the heck out of it the second day of camp. We ran it the rest of the week but over 30 mph, it roared. I have now had a machinist, machine down the front of the prop base until the base meets the fins (probably wrong words) and will have the Acme done likewise when I get it back from the shop (this was Bill from Acme advice, I have driven him crazy over this deal) and also ordered a hamonic puller to pull the Acme off due to the no clearance problem. We skied with it last Thursday and I had bent the fins somewhat back into place again with Bill's ok. As I went to put the boat away today, I took a chance and went by your ex-dealer hear in Lubbock (I still think you current dealer is a joke after the problems I had last summer) and we used a chain puller to pull the Acme. I put the stainless back on after that and the modified pro-puller pulls it back off quite nicely now that we have machined the prop hub (or base) AND the pro-puller. We will see what the Acme allows when I get it back. The bottom line seems to be however that the engine in my Tige seem to be mounted about an inch too far forward resulting in very little room for the prop behind the strut. You make recall I have one of the Marine Power USA engines you "tested" in 98 on your sponsored boats. I like the engine, but the time, money and effort I have spent on trying to change props has really got me frustrated now. How much room is there supposed to be between the prop and the strut?
    Marine Power tells me you are using their engines now. Is that correct??
    David
    David
    Lubbock, TX

    #2
    It is true, Tige is offering the Marine Power GM Vortec engine.

    It sounds to me like your whole problem is( and I will probably catch some flack for this) is the prop shaft is too short. Probably by a 1/2". Have you ever had the underwater gear replaced? There should be plenty of room between the strut and prop hub 1/2 - 1".
    Greg Denton
    former service mgr. Tige Watersports July 95-July 05

    Comment


      #3
      No, the prop shaft and the stainless prop are original equipment. I have no reason to suspect the clearance problem has been there all along as until this year, I haven't ever pulled the prop. I know very little about prop shafts except they can be a pain to replace. I assume they come in different lengths. Can you order them in 1 inch or half inch increments.
      David
      David
      Lubbock, TX

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        #4
        there is really no way for the propulsion system to move forward. this problem has most likely been there all along.

        the propshaft that should a 47"x1 1/8" part # d1002
        Greg Denton
        former service mgr. Tige Watersports July 95-July 05

        Comment


          #5
          there is really no way for the propulsion system to move forward. this problem has most likely been there all along.
          Oh yeah, I'm not moving the engine, besides it would need to move toward the back of the boat.

          the propshaft that should a 47"x1 1/8" part # d1002
          Is that something written on the shaft? Where?

          David

          Oh great, in reading my previous post, I see I should have said "the clearance problem HASN'T been there all along". In other words, I'm sure it's always been this way.
          David
          Lubbock, TX

          Comment


            #6
            I have seen several '98-2000 boats where the prop is to close to the strut to place the standard prop puller in place to remove the prop. We have had to pull the boat to our local prop shop as they have two different style prop pullers that work when there is not enough clearence for ours.

            Comment


              #7
              when we get the shafts from tige they are usually marked with a black "sharpie" pen on the shaft fust aft of the coupler or a sticker in the same place.
              Greg Denton
              former service mgr. Tige Watersports July 95-July 05

              Comment


                #8
                lee,
                Being in the middle of West Texas, we don't have the luxury of a prop shop so I have bought two different types of prop pullers. One slips in behind the prop, when there is enough room and one is a harmonic puller, a rather low tech piece of steel that I think I will try out tonight now that I have the new prop milled enough to clear the shaft strut.
                I have had to learn more about props this summer than I ever intended to know. And the expense for one #$%@ prop! $350 for a prop, $65 for a prop puller, $20 to mill down the puller so it works, $155 to rebuild the new prop after finding the "the rocks", $45 for a second prop puller, and $20 to mill the base of a the new prop so it fits. Summer better end quick before I go bankrupt!! Money Talks - mine says GOODBYE
                I'm curious about your comments, are you in the boat business?
                David
                Lubbock, TX

                Comment


                  #9
                  Prop

                  Doc,

                  I'm in West Texas as well. Do you send your props to Nettles in Austin to be rebuilt? I have one to be done after my nephew found some granite in Lake Buchannan. Shaft, Prop, Rudder.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    My boat shop used B&B in Dallas. The work looks ok but the cost was quite a bit higher than if I had sent it back to Acme. I recommend seeing if your manufacturer has a shop to rebuild.
                    David
                    David
                    Lubbock, TX

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Souther California Prop Shop?

                      Does anyone have a good prop repair place in Southern California they can recommend?

                      I put a couple dings in my Acme 4-blade on Sunday and want to get it repaired in time for this weekend.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hey Tige MD,
                        I checked my prop shaft and all I can see is what appears to be the number 9 on the shaft. Perhaps it was a 4 but everything else has rubbed off.
                        I suspect the motor was mounted a little far forward as well. It was a test engine that year so there is probably a slight difference in the mounting hardware or trans. mounting or something was different than the Mercs they were using then. It's no biggie but it is going to be a pain to get this prop off someday as my pro-puller just won't fit in the limited space AND the acme harmonic puller doesn't seem to work in my opinion. To me, you are just hitting the end of the shaft with a big hammer. You never even touch the prop.
                        David
                        David
                        Lubbock, TX

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