I just bought my a 1998 pre2200iwt and I noticed that the water line into the pump from the hull doesn't have a valve on it in case the hose springs a leak the water would just keep coming in. Has any one put a valve in line and if so what did you use.Also should I put a T of some kind in line so I can have a fresh water flush line to the pump instead of buying a fake a lake for running the boat on the trailer. Thanks for any input because I don't have any exp. with inboards.
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Hey NICKYPOO, I ordered a Monster Tower,2 board racks and a mirror so I will have more pics up soon. I have some under General Tech Disc.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4052 see link.Last edited by Jim_B; 05-10-2007, 04:55 PM.
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Oh, there it is. I hadn't seen those yet. Man, found one without a tower. Score. That's great boat. You're not going to find a better craft from that era. Let me know when when you get around to surfing it. It's one of the best "old" surf hulls around. Very easy to get a good wake out of. Once again, congrats.You'll get your chance, smart guy.
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Tigé Jedi
- Feb 2004
- 5557
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
My personal opinion is that adding a shutoff would be just another place for a leak to occur. If the engine springs a leak, it won't leak when you shut the engine off. If you then shut off the flow to the engine and run the engine, then your engine fries.
The best application is for running it out of the lake, so some guys put a T in there for attaching a garden hose. I would do it only for running the engine in your driveway, but not for some hope of greater safety in the boat.Be excellent to one another.
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Thanks nickypoo.
Talltigeguy, I was thinking for both safety and easy of running it in the driveway. There is a trailer bunk right up against the bottom intake so a fake a lake is not an option.I have to at least put a T in but will the water drain out the bottom intake before the water pump can suck the water into the motor?
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Hi, Jim B.,
I just finished installing the setup you asked about on our 2000 21V. I wanted a shut-off valve for the water pickup line. If anything starts leaking (split hose, cracked cooler, rod thru side of block) it could give you some time to figure out what the problem is. I used a good quality 1" brass full-flow ball valve. The handles on this type of valve also make is very clear when the valve is open/closed. After that is a stainless raw water strainer. There were 2 pieces of cardboard in the V-drive cooler the size of a stick of gum. Before going into the V-drive cooler is a tee with a ball valve for a shower raw water source. After the V-drive is a tee with a ball valve for a secondary raw water supply. A bucket with a garden hose/float valve connects to the secondary raw water input. This will fill the hoses, including the raw water pump just like in the lake. Close the main raw water pickup valve, open the secondary raw water input valve, hook up the garden hose and run the engine all you want. Just make sure the supply bucket stays full. Put a large plastic tub under the FAE with an overflow hose in the side and the rusty exhaust water can be sent down the drain instead of the driveway.
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