Engine Stopped While Surfing

[TigeSC]

2009 RZ2 with PCM 343. 707 hours.

We were cruising along surfing the first run of today when the engine seemed to just stop running. My wife just about ran into the back of the boat. As we coasted to a stop, the engine was running rough at low RPM's and then stopped running after about 20 seconds. It wouldn't start back up and had to bum a tow back to the dock. To be honest, we had the stereo cranked up so if any alarms sounded, I wouldn't have heard it. I've look around different forums looking for a place to begin, but I can't find a thread to start me off. Here are the symptoms from the best I can tell:

1. The oil was a little low. I pulled the dip stick and the level was on the low end of the range. I added a pint to bring it back to normal. Still won't crank.
2. The oil pressure is zero when I turn the key on. I don't know if this is normal when the engine is not running.
3. When I tried to re-start it, the starter motor will spin until I turn the key off. It won't even begin to catch
4. There is no oil in the engine compartment. (I think this is a good sign).
5. My fuel tank is at 3/4

Not sure if I have given enough information to get me started. I am wondering if I have a problem with the oil pressure sensor, high pressure fuel pump, fried the engine.... I'm moderately skilled with working on the engine, but I don't have a clue where to start with this one. Help...

[UNSTUCK]

My money is on fuel pump failure. Or you just ran out of fuel.

[TigeSC]

I'm good on fuel. I'm hoping your right on the fuel pump. Is there a way to test it?

[IDBoating]

Gotta love these diagnostic mystery threads!

We were cruising along surfing the first run of today when the engine seemed to just stop running. My wife just about ran into the back of the boat. As we coasted to a stop, the engine was running rough at low RPM's and then stopped running after about 20 seconds. It wouldn't start back up and had to bum a tow back to the dock.

Same thing happened to one of our jetskis yesterday. But I digress....

1. The oil was a little low. I pulled the dip stick and the level was on the low end of the range. I added a pint to bring it back to normal. Still won't crank.

Keep the oil at Full (but NOT over). When these boats are listed over to one side, the oil in the pan goes to one side too. I don't know where the oil sump pump intake is, but theoretically you could starve the oil pump and the EX343 has a low-oil sensor that will kill the engine when the oil pressure goes too low. Since it still won't start that's probably not the issue here, but still... keep your oil at Full.

2. The oil pressure is zero when I turn the key on. I don't know if this is normal when the engine is not running.

Totally normal. Engine has to be running to have oil pressure.

3. When I tried to re-start it, the starter motor will spin until I turn the key off. It won't even begin to catch

Meaning the ENGINE is turning but doesn't start? Or does just the starter spin (much quieter than turning over the whole engine) but doesn't engage the engine itself?

4. There is no oil in the engine compartment. (I think this is a good sign).

Yep!

5. My fuel tank is at 3/4

Should be good to go, though like the oil - don't let the fuel get too low when surfing.

If the engine has fuel, air, compression, and spark, it will at least TRY to start. Unlikely anything catastrophic "just happened" to kill your cylinders and thus your compression. Ditto for air. So fuel and spark are where I'd start.

First and most obvious: Check things that intentionally kill the spark at startup.

* Is your driver's kill switch in the proper position?

* Is your FNR lever locked in the neutral position?

* Any indications on the dash? Engine light doing anything other than its quick self-test when you turn on the key? Gauges all looking normal?

* Check your battery voltage with a multimeter. The EX343 is an ECM-controlled engine, sometimes they are sensitive to voltage.


As far as fuel...

* Can you hear the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) come on when you turn the key to the "On" position? Have someone else turn the key on while you stand over the engine with everything really quiet.

* If the pump runs, there is a port on the fuel rail where you can attach a fuel pressure gauge. It looks like a tire stem. Get a injection-rated gauge and see what pressure you have when the key is in the "On" position. No pressure = pump or fuel rail problem, which could be as simple as the fuse that powers the HPFP. Of course, you'd want to understand why the fuse blew but at least you'd be making progress.


Check all these things and report back.

[mikemcclain8]

I second checking for fuel pump noise with key to on, not crank. Should hear it kick in to prime. I had this happen a few weeks ago and switched out the low pressure pump. Turns out it was the fuel pump relay had blown because of a loose ground (now I have a backup low pressure pump). I had signs of the loose ground but failed to hunt down the culprit until I had to . Fixed the ground and have run four days without issue.

Mike

Gotta love these diagnostic mystery threads!


Same thing happened to one of our jetskis yesterday. But I digress....


Keep the oil at Full (but NOT over). When these boats are listed over to one side, the oil in the pan goes to one side too. I don't know where the oil sump pump intake is, but theoretically you could starve the oil pump and the EX343 has a low-oil sensor that will kill the engine when the oil pressure goes too low. Since it still won't start that's probably not the issue here, but still... keep your oil at Full.


Totally normal. Engine has to be running to have oil pressure.


Meaning the ENGINE is turning but doesn't start? Or does just the starter spin (much quieter than turning over the whole engine) but doesn't engage the engine itself?


Yep!


Should be good to go, though like the oil - don't let the fuel get too low when surfing.

If the engine has fuel, air, compression, and spark, it will at least TRY to start. Unlikely anything catastrophic "just happened" to kill your cylinders and thus your compression. Ditto for air. So fuel and spark are where I'd start.

First and most obvious: Check things that intentionally kill the spark at startup.

* Is your driver's kill switch in the proper position?

* Is your FNR lever locked in the neutral position?

* Any indications on the dash? Engine light doing anything other than its quick self-test when you turn on the key? Gauges all looking normal?

* Check your battery voltage with a multimeter. The EX343 is an ECM-controlled engine, sometimes they are sensitive to voltage.


As far as fuel...

* Can you hear the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) come on when you turn the key to the "On" position? Have someone else turn the key on while you stand over the engine with everything really quiet.

* If the pump runs, there is a port on the fuel rail where you can attach a fuel pressure gauge. It looks like a tire stem. Get a injection-rated gauge and see what pressure you have when the key is in the "On" position. No pressure = pump or fuel rail problem, which could be as simple as the fuse that powers the HPFP. Of course, you'd want to understand why the fuse blew but at least you'd be making progress.


Check all these things and report back.

[KoolAid]

Did it have a heavy smell of gas when it idled down and died? That's typically a telltale sign the pump lost pressure.

[TigeSC]

Thanks for all the feedback. You have really helped me so far.

Update...
My fuel pump appears to be OK. I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from my local PCM parts supplier (I am lucky that I live in the same town as the factory). The pressure when I turn the key goes to 50 PSI and holds steady, so I think I am OK there. I am thinking that have an electrical problem. The next suggestion from my "guy" was to test the plugs. I pulled the flame arrestor and sprayed some starter fluid into the intake. Tried to crank the engine and nothing. I pulled all of the fuses on panel on the top of the engine and all are good. I am wondering if my distributor went out on me mid-surf. I put a new one in at the end of the season last year, but at this stage I'm at a loss. I guess I'll pick up a new distributor and a new set of cables just to be safe and see how it goes. Any other ideas?

[UNSTUCK]

Starter fluid is a great way to test for spark. Also a great way to brake piston rings. The engine should always be cranking over before you start spraying it into the intake and still cranking after you stop spraying. This will help prevent any one cylinder from taking the brunt of the load and prevent hydro-locking. It should be sprayed in very short increments. Like 1/4 of a second sprays. It takes VERY little spray to make this test.
Also keep in mind that starting fluid was never intended to be used on spark ignited engines due to the danger of igniting any residual either that may be in the intake or the stream of spray coming out of the can, hence the short sprays mentioned above. Basically using starting fluid on a spark engine is a bad idea. I have done it, and it does work. Be careful.

[tigemech]

Check for spark first of all. If no spark check your distributor cap. If corroded replace. Highly doubt the actual distributor is bad

[boatwakes]

Those engines rely on a crankshaft position sensor mounted on the front of the engine timing cover at about the 7 o'clock position as you're looking at the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. The sensor is held in place with one 8mm head bolt and is located directly behind the harmonic balancer and has a quick release 3 wire connector. Thats the first place to look when you lose spark. This part can be substituted with an automotive part without issue. Heres the link to the part. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...n+sensor&pos=4