Weird ignition issue

[jackfly]

Sorry, I feel like I’m abusing the forum while getting to know the boat but I’m sure someone knows the answer. I can’t find anything like this using search.
I went to wake up the stereo today( I have to turn the key on) and no joy using the aux position. Turned to run and the normal fuel pump noises and dash beep didn’t happen. I just heard a click from under the spark arrester cover. Tried it a few times and same thing. Battery voltage all good. Then what to crank and engine cranked. I didn’t let engine start but now stereo works and everything back to normal.
I’m thinking bad battery connection. Any other thoughts?
Thanks!


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[chpthril]

That boat should have an ACC position one turn to the left of the key. Odd that the stereo does not wake up in that position, but does in the RUN position. This could be pointing to a failing key switch.

In the RUN position, all the gauges should come alive, including the volt gauge. Am I understanding that the volt gauge is the only one that woke up in RUN?

[jackfly]

That boat should have an ACC position one turn to the left of the key. Odd that the stereo does not wake up in that position, but does in the RUN position. This could be pointing to a failing key switch.

In the RUN position, all the gauges should come alive, including the volt gauge. Am I understanding that the volt gauge is the only one that woke up in RUN?

Normally the stereo does come on in ACC (turn key left). When it didn’t I turned the key R to run and none of the normal stuff came on (gauges on dash, warning horn ,fuel pump ect) came on. The only sound was a click from right near the spark arrester.
When I turned the key to start, the engine began to crank, and I heard the fuel pump come on , dash came alive and stereo now works normally.
Wouldn’t seem to be a key switch issue, but maybe.


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[jackfly]

The volt gauge would not work, I tested battery voltage at battery.


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[chpthril]

Heres how I feel it. The same 12V supply that turns the stereo on in ACC, turns the gauges on in RUN and initiates cranking in CRANK. Since the engine spun over, this tells us that the 12V to the switch is likely solid. The ACC terminal is hot in the ACC and RUN. Fact that the stereo did not wake up in ACC, and the gauges did not turn on in RUN, but then did after going all the wat to crank then back to RUN.

Id use a good 12V powered test light and focus on the key switch to start.

[jackfly]

Heres how I feel it. The same 12V supply that turns the stereo on in ACC, turns the gauges on in RUN and initiates cranking in CRANK. Since the engine spun over, this tells us that the 12V to the switch is likely solid. The ACC terminal is hot in the ACC and RUN. Fact that the stereo did not wake up in ACC, and the gauges did not turn on in RUN, but then did after going all the wat to crank then back to RUN.

Id use a good 12V powered test light and focus on the key switch to start.

Will do. As always, thanks for the reply.


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