how to pull the motor

[laserfish]

Boatwakes, thanks for your input, it is valued as I know you have been a contributor for a long time. I have removed the exhaust (added work room), fuel, electrical. Glad to know about which end of the motor mount to remove and where to split from the engine, that was my biggest question. I have been rebuilding car engines for a long time but this is a first for me on a boat. I have no problem going back to the same HP, just had to check it out. At my age, simplicity is king. However, just to be clear, you would not recommend going with a long block and reusing all of my existing components? It is the same with cars, it is a crap shoot with rebuilders, that is why I have always done my own. And you are right, quality machine shops are almost extinct and the good ones are expensive. Where is the best place to look for a "replacement engine" and what is included in that description? Thanks again for everyone's contributions here.

[boatwakes]

Post your serial number when you get a chance, I need to verify a couple things but I've listed the parts and gaskets you'll need below. I would not recommend a long block unless it's coming from Mercruiser/Quicksilver for your specific serial number and after looking at their available engines, no dice. Your engine is roller cam with a very specific profile, proprietary to the engine, so you will need to reuse the cam. The block should be the easiest thing to procure, its just a post 1986 production small block, non vortec, roller cam provisions cast into the block. Junkyard, craigslist etc for that. Have it magna fluxed immediately and then proceed from there. Everything in your engine will be reusable but I would only reuse the cam, which should be reground anyway, crankshaft and rods. All the internals will be suffering from some sort of corrosion issue but it'll be minor compared to the sea water crap we usually deal with and can be polished away. Pull the distributor immediately and soak the shaft in diesel up to where it's painted, days in a bucket is how we recommend doing it. Do not exceed the depth in diesel past where it is painted, the upper seal may swell and you'll be in need of a new Mercruiser proprietary distributor.

Label the engine forward motor mounts so you know what side they go on during reassembly. I did a write up on alignment somewhere here so you can look it up after installation or we can do another when its time.

Use Fel-Pro marine head gaskets 17030
Use Fel-Pro intake manifold set MS-90131 (there are extra gaskets for the 2-piece manifold but I don't think yours has that)
Use Fel-Pro 1-piece oil pan gasket SFLOS34500R
Use GM Parts 12562818 composite timing cover (without sensor hole drilled)

Go to fuelinjectorconnection.com for your injectors, they're $75 each, new or I have two new sets in stock too.

While it's out:
- Replace the transmission cooler
- Consider replacing the drive plate just because you're already there
- Consider replacing your exhaust manifolds and risers
- Add a suckout hose to the transmission (I will walk you through this)
- Add a suckout to the v-drive
- Replace any hoses that are green stripe, usually intake water hoses, with blue stripe wire reinforced hose.
- Replace distributor ignition sensor if it hasn't been done already.
- Consider installing a seacock valve and sea strainer on the intake water line

You'll need a DTC computer to set timing when you're ready.

[gumby]

I know where a 2001 350 motor is complete long block. The owner says he would sell it as a "needs rebuilt" motor although he feels you could drop it in and it would be fine. He quoted $600.00.That would give you a known good block and a spare set of heads. I have known him for 10+years I would take him at his word that it is good. The bad part is it is in Tennessee.

[laserfish]

Engine serial number is 0L396181. Let me know what I have.
Is the engine Gumby mentions the type I should be going for? Gumby has the same tank of a boat I have.

[gumby]

I do i have a a 2001 21v but this is not my motor. I am good friends with a the owner of a small smell shop here. He mostly dose v drive snd direct drive work for others. I do all of my own maintenance. I do get parts and such through him. Sometimes bounce ideas and just fun to chat with drink a beer with ya know. I was there sat we were talking about your post after hours having a beer. when he told me he had a motor he would sell.I would have to get more info. If you were interested. IMO It is one of the reason he said he would sell as " needs rebuilt" He is just a small shop and wouldn't want lead you to think it has no hours on it.

[laserfish]

I do appreciate the heads up and your time asking him about it. I love everything about my 21V and want to fix it! If I cannot find one locally, I have no problem going out of state.
Boatwakes, what year range should I be looking at? Is a GM 350 crate motor acceptable, or does it have to be a Mercury? I am a car guy and don't know the differences.

[boatwakes]

Gumby, pass the serial of your engine when you get a chance. Everything is in the cam on these engines, special girls. GM crate engines are okay but you have to change out the head gaskets to marine and change the cam from your old engine. Plus misc other items like oil suckout hose etc...I also have a recently machined block, crank, rods and pistons for your set up, from Mercruiser authorized machine shop. Not for that price so lets see what comes up.

All parts I listed are relevant to your engine after reviewing the serial number.

[gumby]

My # on my boat OL391968 The cam is a special grind for sure on these motors You can get close with a full size van build. With out a cam tool it would hard to figure it out. You could get lift & duration pretty easy ramp angles would be tough. With out proper tools.I did the rebuild on my DD using a Econo line van cam. Non roller Ford 351. non rollers are a different animal. Ramp angles are not near as crazy. But I might just be saying stuff you already know.

[laserfish]

Will this fit the bill? 2005 model. Will it fit my 2000? This is local.

[gumby]

The blocks are the same from 1987 ish 88 ish well into 2010 but not sure could be current. Fit is not the right word any small chevy. " Will fit". The motor mounts and bell housing are the same.The holes for mounting accessory are different. no knock sensor. But it would "FIT" Is my point. A 2005 should work. You would have to treat it as a long block move your stuff over. Is this 2005 new? What is it out of? is it a bare block? Is it a short or long? you didn't give us much to work with other than 2005 model. For all I know your 2005 model could be a ford.lol something might be missing from your post. An attachment we can't see?

[laserfish]

OOPS, my bad. Forgot to paste the link to the CL ad.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bp...831885902.html

[gumby]

If it is coming with every thing go get it!!!! No brainer he is going to a big block Nothing on that motor will work for him Except alternator maybe raw water. Go hear it run check the oil. make sure you are getting the computer, fuel rail, injectors, distributor, all of it. You might have to use your exhaust manifolds but that might be it. I think the wiring harness are the even the same. If I remember right from My buddies is a 2005 22V. I am sure someone here will know like freeheel, boatwakes.

[gumby]

In the worst case to would have to treat it as a long block kinda sorta move your wiring harness, distributor, computer Possible intake, all your accessories I guess the oil pan could be different but all your stuff will go on that motor.no fear of that.
Also they should be able to show you the hours on a laptop what is on the motor I believe.

[boatwakes]

That motor is set up for an outdrive. However, if the outdrive is a bravo, the engine will work. The distributor is different (thats a crab cap, you have a thunderbolt), the fuel pump is different (yours has the better gen 2 cool fuel system, this has the prone to clogging gen 3) and you MUST REPLACE THE DRIVE PLATE AND BELLHOUSING WITH THE ONE FROM YOUR MOTOR. If you have the top mount starter, YOU MUST ALSO SWAP THE FLYWHEEL FROM YOUR MOTOR TO THIS ONE (the ring gear is aft for top mount starter, forward for block mounted and all outdrive engines are block mounted) There's some misc. other stuff (like you'll constantly throw a low drive lube alarm, you'll need to tie the power steering hoses together etc..) and if you can run a DTC on the computer, I guarantee there will be HIGH RPM hours on that boat. It's doable but you cannot swap computers, injectors or distributors between the two.

[laserfish]

Boatwakes, question from someone who is learning so bear with me. I know my block has a bottom block mount starter like normal chevy engines. Would it be practical to use this as a long block and move my stuff over, or just get a remanufactured one since you said new are not available, or keep looking being patient? Your thoughts? Sounds like you would pass on this one.