how to pull the motor

[gumby]

I know where a 2001 350 motor is complete long block. The owner says he would sell it as a "needs rebuilt" motor although he feels you could drop it in and it would be fine. He quoted $600.00.That would give you a known good block and a spare set of heads. I have known him for 10+years I would take him at his word that it is good. The bad part is it is in Tennessee.

[laserfish]

Engine serial number is 0L396181. Let me know what I have.
Is the engine Gumby mentions the type I should be going for? Gumby has the same tank of a boat I have.

[gumby]

I do i have a a 2001 21v but this is not my motor. I am good friends with a the owner of a small smell shop here. He mostly dose v drive snd direct drive work for others. I do all of my own maintenance. I do get parts and such through him. Sometimes bounce ideas and just fun to chat with drink a beer with ya know. I was there sat we were talking about your post after hours having a beer. when he told me he had a motor he would sell.I would have to get more info. If you were interested. IMO It is one of the reason he said he would sell as " needs rebuilt" He is just a small shop and wouldn't want lead you to think it has no hours on it.

[laserfish]

I do appreciate the heads up and your time asking him about it. I love everything about my 21V and want to fix it! If I cannot find one locally, I have no problem going out of state.
Boatwakes, what year range should I be looking at? Is a GM 350 crate motor acceptable, or does it have to be a Mercury? I am a car guy and don't know the differences.

[boatwakes]

Gumby, pass the serial of your engine when you get a chance. Everything is in the cam on these engines, special girls. GM crate engines are okay but you have to change out the head gaskets to marine and change the cam from your old engine. Plus misc other items like oil suckout hose etc...I also have a recently machined block, crank, rods and pistons for your set up, from Mercruiser authorized machine shop. Not for that price so lets see what comes up.

All parts I listed are relevant to your engine after reviewing the serial number.

[gumby]

My # on my boat OL391968 The cam is a special grind for sure on these motors You can get close with a full size van build. With out a cam tool it would hard to figure it out. You could get lift & duration pretty easy ramp angles would be tough. With out proper tools.I did the rebuild on my DD using a Econo line van cam. Non roller Ford 351. non rollers are a different animal. Ramp angles are not near as crazy. But I might just be saying stuff you already know.

[laserfish]

Will this fit the bill? 2005 model. Will it fit my 2000? This is local.

[gumby]

The blocks are the same from 1987 ish 88 ish well into 2010 but not sure could be current. Fit is not the right word any small chevy. " Will fit". The motor mounts and bell housing are the same.The holes for mounting accessory are different. no knock sensor. But it would "FIT" Is my point. A 2005 should work. You would have to treat it as a long block move your stuff over. Is this 2005 new? What is it out of? is it a bare block? Is it a short or long? you didn't give us much to work with other than 2005 model. For all I know your 2005 model could be a ford.lol something might be missing from your post. An attachment we can't see?

[laserfish]

OOPS, my bad. Forgot to paste the link to the CL ad.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/bp...831885902.html

[gumby]

If it is coming with every thing go get it!!!! No brainer he is going to a big block Nothing on that motor will work for him Except alternator maybe raw water. Go hear it run check the oil. make sure you are getting the computer, fuel rail, injectors, distributor, all of it. You might have to use your exhaust manifolds but that might be it. I think the wiring harness are the even the same. If I remember right from My buddies is a 2005 22V. I am sure someone here will know like freeheel, boatwakes.

[gumby]

In the worst case to would have to treat it as a long block kinda sorta move your wiring harness, distributor, computer Possible intake, all your accessories I guess the oil pan could be different but all your stuff will go on that motor.no fear of that.
Also they should be able to show you the hours on a laptop what is on the motor I believe.

[boatwakes]

That motor is set up for an outdrive. However, if the outdrive is a bravo, the engine will work. The distributor is different (thats a crab cap, you have a thunderbolt), the fuel pump is different (yours has the better gen 2 cool fuel system, this has the prone to clogging gen 3) and you MUST REPLACE THE DRIVE PLATE AND BELLHOUSING WITH THE ONE FROM YOUR MOTOR. If you have the top mount starter, YOU MUST ALSO SWAP THE FLYWHEEL FROM YOUR MOTOR TO THIS ONE (the ring gear is aft for top mount starter, forward for block mounted and all outdrive engines are block mounted) There's some misc. other stuff (like you'll constantly throw a low drive lube alarm, you'll need to tie the power steering hoses together etc..) and if you can run a DTC on the computer, I guarantee there will be HIGH RPM hours on that boat. It's doable but you cannot swap computers, injectors or distributors between the two.

[laserfish]

Boatwakes, question from someone who is learning so bear with me. I know my block has a bottom block mount starter like normal chevy engines. Would it be practical to use this as a long block and move my stuff over, or just get a remanufactured one since you said new are not available, or keep looking being patient? Your thoughts? Sounds like you would pass on this one.

[gumby]

I do have say if you like the price of this motor. buy it. It will work for what you are doing.yes it is a I/O that doesn't matter. you may have to change some accessories. but you will have to do all the same with a long block and more. You could treat it as a long block.
Change or swap oil pan,fly whee, flex plate, starter,valve covers exhaust manifolds, engine water pump all the hoses, (that go with it)raw water pump. fuel filter housing. fuel pump.(we have one unless the dealer added a second)alternator, engine wiring harness,distributor, intake, fuel rails,throttle body,idle pulley, temp sending,oil sending, coil, thermostat housing, I might have missed something but think that is most if it. Are you sure your starer is on the bottom? Mine is on the top in the bell. Yours could be on the bottom. The holes will be there either way. but quite honestly I don't think you will have to do all this you will have to see what is needed. The motor will work for what you are doing. Timing chain cover. (forgot)

Things you might not have to change. oil pan, valve covers,timing cover, water pump(unless you want a new one) yes he has a power steering pump I think he will need it on his boat and you don't need it. If you go with a long block non marine you will still change /swap all of this and tare down your new long block change the head gaskets and swap the cam shaft that will Void the warranty. You will still have to swap the stuff regardless. I would check the hours on the 2005 on a laptop see where it spent most of its 200 hours at. (rpm range) if you feel it is a good buy? get it. you will have things left over to sell intake, injectors, distributor, computer, wiring harness for someone wanting to switch over to fuel injection. 800 bucks easy. all day.

[gumby]

Just so you don't void the warranty. Here is a list of what others suggested
koolaid
https://marineenginedepot.com/20012/...ine-Long-Block
TeamAlien
https://marineenginedepot.com/MP/mar....7L-350ci--V8/
http://www.atkvege.com/content/
http://www.jasperengines.com/marine-products
http://www.usengine.us/marine_engines.html
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/
I would also find out the type of boat the 2005 is coming out of. Is it a similar weight? heaver/lighter?