how to pull the motor

[laserfish]

Need to pull the motor on my 2000 21V due to a cracked something or bad gasket somewhere. Have everything out of the way (wiring harness, etc.). I need to know what to pull. Can I just separate the block from the bell housing or do I separate at the trans? Help as I want to have this on the water this summer!
Also, for parts. Can I use GM or high quality aftermarket parts (bearings, gaskets, etc.) I plan on going as deep as need be after I see what is causing my milkshake oil.

[KoolAid]

The engine was put in that boat with the deck on it so it can be done. You basically use straps on the exhaust manifold, lift and push the engine until you can rotate it sideways in the hatch are (trans on port and pulley side on starboard for example) then you pretty much lift straight out. Much easier said than done. Most dealerships will pull one exhaust manifold to give them more room. Not sure how they hold on to them. I know we dropped then in at the factory just like how I explained to pull them.

[freeheel4life]

I use one of these guys
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...4aAhpiEALw_wcB

I typically run the all thread most of the way back and rig the chains so that it comes up level off the front motor mount studs evenly and doenst bind. Then as you come up you can tilt the motor to help you get it out. I pull them trans and vdrive coupled to engine. I dont like having to get the trans input shaft into the damper plate in the bilge though it can be done this way and know one guy that does his engine R and Rs that way.

Dont forget to disconnect a battery lead before starting. Last thing you want to do is pull fuel lines then ground out your starter cable

Also, besides all the fuel and electrical that needs unhooked, you will need to disconnect the coupler. Sounds like a no brainer but you wont get it up very far if the shaft is still coupled to the Vdrive. I will also echo what others have said, just longblock it. In my experience the GMs that get a plug pushed out crack the casting. Had a couple older Ford 351 Windsors(PCMs) that have pushed out a plug and survived, so I am assuming the water jacket casting thickness was a bit thicker. YMMV.

Good luck

[laserfish]

Well, I did not feel like putting what I had already removed from the engine. I was in the process of replacing the impeller when I discovered the freeze/sand plug out. The sheer volume of water/batter in the engine convinces me that there has to be a crack somewhere. There is approximately 800 hours on this engine. If the heads have no cracks, would you guys purchase a short block and reuse the heads or a complete long block and bolt everything to it. Can I go to someone like Jegs, Blueprint etc for the long block or do I need to get a marine rebuilder engine? There are probably only several million 5.7 gen II engines out there. Just trying to get input before making a hasty decision. Thanks for the opinions.

[KoolAid]

https://marineenginedepot.com/20012/...ine-Long-Block
Just in case you need it while shopping around. This is Marine Powers' retail page.

[TeamAllen]

Here are some I found digging around a few previous threads on the subject. No particular order.
https://marineenginedepot.com/MP/mar....7L-350ci--V8/
http://www.atkvege.com/content/
http://www.jasperengines.com/marine-products
http://www.rapidomarine.com
http://www.usengine.us/marine_engines.html
http://www.michiganmotorz.com

[freeheel4life]

We use Jasper often.

[BrentP]

Stupid question - What stops you from dropping in a 400HP motor or something if you have to swap anyway? Boat not designed for that HP?

[laserfish]

Brent-I am definitely looking into increasing the HP if it is possible and practical. It is my understanding that the injectors on my engine are for the 315 (Need new ones anyway) and the ECU/ECM (computer) is flashed for the Mag MPI 315 that it is controlling. Looking to see who may be able to re-flash for higher HP. If anyone knows about this, I am all ears!

[KoolAid]

Stupid question - What stops you from dropping in a 400HP motor or something if you have to swap anyway? Boat not designed for that HP?

It can handle more hp. Typically its the torque that causes issues. His boat could have been optioned with a 380hp engine from what I recall. His is the wooden stringer era of boats and they can handle a ton of torque.

[gumby]

Get a long block by the time you pay for the heads to be redone (IF they are GOOD) gaskets,valve job,guides, seats, new springs it might cost you the same or more. That could be a little tricky going up in HP...5.0- 5.7- 6.0 (305-350-400) are all the same to a degree. Kinda what is nice about small chevy. Can you get the injectors and the computer done correctly would be the question. 50 to 75 ponies more I don't think would hurt the drive train or the hull. The hull would be more up KoolAid alley.

KoolAid
Baat me to the post so there you go.

[TeamAllen]

These guys should be able to answer your ECU/ECM questions.
http://mefiburn.com/allinone.asp

[laserfish]

Thanks Mike. Freezing and rain this weekend so I will have time to research.

[boatwakes]

A pushed block plug means the block is cracked, usually just above the oil pan rail below the plug that fell out, heads are fine. It all depends on what you want to do. We've done hundreds of engine rebuilds, swaps and complete replacements and here's my advice:

If you're looking to save time, do the following: Buy the complete drop-in exact replacement engine. More HP is only going to make finding the right prop more mysterious. More HP may change connections to coolers and water inlets. More HP burns more fuel. We've done it over and over and watched guys do it themselves and trip over little things constantly. Use the same motor, same horsepower, same stuff, it's just easier.

If you're looking to save money, do the following: Buy the complete drop-in exact replacement engine. More HP is only going to make finding the right prop more mysterious. More HP may change connections to coolers and water inlets. More HP burns more fuel. We've done it over and over and watched guys do it themselves and trip over little things constantly. Use the same motor, same horsepower same stuff, it's just easier.

If you're looking to punch yourself in the gut over and over, do the following: Don't buy the complete drop-in exact replacement engine. Rebuild what you have with a seasoned engine block and suspect machining done to the engine components, no warranty and weeks if not months of waiting for the right parts, building the engine and then installing...

I'm just trying to say it's worth spending the money to get the warranty and peace of mind if you're doing it yourself. Machine shops are becoming a lost art and those that are good charge nearly the same price as a remanufactured OEM. Internet motors are junk, from Jasper or anywhere else. The stories I have would break this website. If you have questions about it I'll be happy to answer when I can but don't PM me. Post here so everyone can read it too. Good luck!

[boatwakes]

Also, to answer your original question, remove the plastic cover under the engine between the oil pan and the bell housing. It's usually held in place with 7/16" head bolts and brass keeper nuts surrounded by rubber. This plastic shield MUST BE REMOVED prior to removing the engine. Next, remove the bell housing bolts, including the one behind the top mounted starter. Even if you don't have the top mounted starter, the bell housing has a block off plate on it where the starter would go. Behind that block off plate is another hidden bell housing bolt (organize them according to position).

Once all bolts are removed keep this in mind: there are dowel pins in the engine block that locate the bellhousing to the engine and will keep the two from initially separating. We keep one easily accessible bolt in the bell housing to engine connection anyway just for safety.

Next, remove the port and starboard ENGINE FORWARD motor mount to string bolts. These are forward and aft on each ENGINE FORWARD motor mount and have a 3/4" bolt and nut head. Box and label when removed. Once thats done and the fuel, battery and electrical connections are removed, the engine is ready to come out.

Take some weight on the lifting eyes with whatever crane or gantry you're using and then remove the last bolt from the bellhousing. Use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the bellhousing from the engine and move the engine away from the bellhousing at least 3". This will allow the transmission input shaft to clear the drive plate on the back of the motor. Check for any random hose or wire connections you may have missed during disassembly and if you see none, yank her out.


Installation is opposite removal except you will need to index the trans input shaft drive splines with the drive plate if the two don't want to go together the first time. Also be sure to have the engine angle the same as the trans angle during reassembly or they will not mate.

Ask questions if you need, I have answers. Good luck!