2001 Perfect Pass Servo Wiring Issue

[h2osk8er00]

Fellow Owners,

While I am certain I will be able to have my problems solved once I talk to the Professionals at Perfect Pass... I still wanted to see if anyone has dealt with this and try to do it tomorrow, as I know PP will be closed Sunday and its back to the grind on Monday for me (no time for boat work during the week). Also, even with all the threads out there I unfortunately couldn't locate one for this.. Please link it to the thread if you do know where one exists though...by all means...

I used to have the Perfect Pass (Rider's Cruise- Non-Digital display) for my boat and as far as I know the thing never actually worked so I gutted the servo motor not knowing much about it due to the fact that it was messing with my throttle cable and locking up. Years later, after some Internet research and knowing that my boat is still wired, I ordered a new Servo motor thinking it would be an easy hook up. Everything went well until I tested it out... The linkage test was fine.. but the servo test gave me the old "shaky/vibrating knob" syndrome instead of a smooth turning knob like the PP videos illustrate.

After a little research I found that sometimes the harness are upside down... I wasn't able to reverse it due to the "dummy-proof" harnesses equipped, so I cut/re-wired it so that it was reversed from what PP had sent me.

When I still had no luck...I decided to see what sort of voltages I was getting from what I assumed were the power wires from the Master Module...I got about 11.5 volts off the bottom two wires (both are red on the existing boat harness side). However, those same exact wires on the servo harness side (according to the one sent to me) are color coded yellow and white. Is there some mix up or was my boat just wired funky (see first photo for boat side of the harness)? I researched what I could and saw that MasterCraft had an issue with some of the early 2000 models and their wiring... So now I am curious if anyone else had the same problem when replacing an old servo motor on their boat.

Boat Harness...

IMG_6733.jpg

Servo Harness...

IMG_6734.jpg

On another note, the black wire on the existing harness did not provide the necessary ground to get the voltage readings I got for the power...In order to get those voltage readings I had to use an alternate ground.... Which I thought was odd... So maybe I just have a bad ground which I am not sure how I will trace that as the dash area is a sea of wires under there... Hoping it is just a wiring SNAFU... Below is the Master Module that I was trying to look at to see what the colors represented what but I am really just hoping for a diagram or some fix I am not thinking of... Can anyone help or will this forum fall on deaf ears?

IMG_6726.jpg

[chpthril]

In many PP issues, it is a voltage/current issue. The ground absolutely needs to be wired to a dedicated ground BUS or battery direct. If its sharing a grouped ground termination, like we see on a lot of older boats, this can be an issue for both the PP as well as those other devises wired together with the PP. So, if your boat has a large ground cable from the battery to a ground BUS bar, wire the PP's ground to it.

Next is the PP's positive circuit. This also needs a good voltage source. IIRC, the PP does not have a switched and constant circuit, just a single 12V+ thats typically wired to the RUN terminal of the key switch. To solve a voltage issue, its best to run a new B+ to the PP, through a relay that triggered by the ignition key switch. The PP will only be on when the key is on, but its now supplied direct from the battery. I suggest a helm B+ BUS. If not one, then go to the "C" post of the main battery switch with a fused wire.

12G wire IMO.

[Perfectpass]

I just sent you an email regarding this issue. It is always best practice to have a good power and ground source for Perfectpass. If you have a poor power and ground the system will often not boot up properly. This is difficult to diagnose on the older Wakeboard Cruise systems as you do not have a in dash LCD screen.

I would recommend measuring the resistance of the servo motor phases and resister. You should also inspect the servo motor power harness for a loose or corroded connection.

Servo-phases.jpg

[h2osk8er00]

In many PP issues, it is a voltage/current issue. The ground absolutely needs to be wired to a dedicated ground BUS or battery direct.

Thanks for the information... I will be jumping in the boat after work by Tuesday or Wednesday afternoon to check some of these possible grounding concerns/issues!

I would recommend measuring the resistance of the servo motor phases and resister. You should also inspect the servo motor power harness for a loose or corroded connection.

Glad to OFFICIALY have you on TigéOwners.com and I am certain other members will love to see you chime in on some of their threads! I called your office this morning but you were out for the day so I responded to your email and will test the resistance as indicated... I really appreciate all the information!

v/r,

Mike

[h2osk8er00]

UPDATE-

I was measuring all the resistance across all the phases and finally had some success! I will try to report the Ohms later.. But was getting in the 7.3 range for the most part.. Anyhow, these were taking from the harness near the Master Module.. I went to take readings from the Servo motor side and when I turned the key to the on position the auto-tuning worked as advertised! Not sure if something an the Master Module was not connected or what. I still have some more testing to do but at least it was a step in the right direction!!!

More to follow!

[hilljroberts]

h2osk8er00's any news on this issue? so it was just a bad connection at the master module? I have a "new to me" 2004 22v that the PP is vibrating on, and not functional. I'm going to test resistance this week, but curious if you ever got this closed out?

[h2osk8er00]

h2osk8er00's any news on this issue? so it was just a bad connection at the master module? I have a "new to me" 2004 22v that the PP is vibrating on, and not functional. I'm going to test resistance this week, but curious if you ever got this closed out?

Thanks for keeping me honest hilljroberts!
UPDATE-
I found out I had a paddlewheel (as I could not see it from under the boat). I had to lift the boat off the trailer to find the bunker board had been covering it every time I pulled the boat onto the trailer. Mind you I had never used this PP system as when I bought the boat because the servo motor had seized and my knowledge of PP was non-existent. As you can see from the pictures below they should have put the paddle wheel about 2-3" closer to the stern. Hence why all the scoops on the paddlewheel were busted off.


Anyhow, I replaced the paddlewheel using a steel tipped dart to remove the pin (took about an hour for me to do that MacGyver work)...I put the boat in the water and was off to test. I was having difficulty getting the speed to hold because I think either the module was set to some old speed or there was too much slack.. anyhow, we got the slack worked out and TheGerman618 helped get it dialed in just right. Needless to say the thing worked like a champ. Sucked not having the LCD but it still worked well. I will be upgrading next year to the GPS version but for now I am happy with the outcome and want to use/test it before dumping more money into it (right now I have about $340 in it to get it back to what it was originally).. The water was pretty rough while testing and we didn't have a 3rd person to test the wave out. However, we did bring out a couple wake ballast bags, had my front and rear lockers 70-80% full, and used both the Wake Edge and the Mission Delta simultaneously to play with the wave. Not nearly as tall as it usually is but we were at least 500-700 lbs less than our usual weight, if not more. Here are some pictures from the run.

Here is a picture using the solely the Mission Delta when we were able to use it at the Lake Mead Tigé Owner's Reunion from 2016...