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    Voltage Problem

    Hopefully you guys can give me a little insight. I took my boat (2001 21i with merc 350mag mpi) out yesterday and about 50 feet from the dock the alarm sounded. Voltage meter on the dash read about 11 volts and the engine seemed to misfire and have trouble running smoothly for a minute. Boat is on the original alternator and I am inclined to think that is the first problem. After getting back to the dock, when I turned the boat off, the motor didn't completely shut down, in fact it acted like it was trying to start again (starter engaged and kept cranking). When I would turn the key back to the "on" position the motor ran normally (albeit at 10-11 volts) without starter noise. After 3 or 4 tries to turn it off it finally stopped/stalled out. Would that be a bad solenoid? Is there a connection to the alternator/voltage system that would cause all this at the same time?

    I recently purchased the boat and it has a perko battery switch installed as well. With the switch to the off position, all the accessories still work (didn't try to start). I was under the impression that is not supposed to happen, hence having a switch. Shouldn't it cut the power to everything? I pulled the switch off the wall and it appears to be connected properly. After the above, I will remove the switch and work on a single battery system until I can get this sorted out. Thank you for any advice you can give me. Much Appreciated!!

    #2
    I would not remove the switch, but rather leave it in place and evaluate its wiring configuration and correct as necessary, and diagnose the alternators output. You may very well have a failed alternator, but is sure sounds like there are cables wired battery direct, that should not be, with a proper dual bank switch.

    Can you describe the style of battery switch you have?

    What position was it in when you went out and experienced the issue?

    Do you have a basic digital volt meter? If not, get one, yur gonna need it.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Its the basic Red Perko Switch. From Right to left the switch reads OFF, 1, All, 2. On the back it has "1" and "2" connections at the top and the "Common" at the bottom. Battery 1 was connected to "1" and Battery 2 was connected to "2". Common had the Red power cable going to the engine and the stereo amp hot wire. Had it on "all" I think (which I just read I shouldn't do). Getting Voltmeter today.

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        #4
        Its the basic Red Perko Switch. From Right to left the switch reads OFF, 1, All, 2. On the back it has "1" and "2" connections at the top and the "Common" at the bottom. Battery 1 was connected to "1" and Battery 2 was connected to "2". Common had the Red power cable going to the engine and the stereo amp hot wire. Had it on "all" I think (which I just read I shouldn't do). Getting Voltmeter today.
        Check the voltage of each of your batteries. If one of your batteries is fully changed, and the other is say half changed and the switch is in "All", you have the batteries paralleled. The half changed battery will pull the voltage down on the fully charged battery, leaving you two half charged batteries that won't do you much good. This doesn't explain why your motor didn't shut off or why it kept cranking

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