I give up
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Quick ? For all you owners changed your starter how to get leverage to break the bolt
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Sometimes it takes me a few days to get a stubborn bolt. On my last boat I never lowered the tower for 3 years, and I had to lower it for some reason and the tower bolts were really stuck, it took me 3 days soaking with PB Blaster and using every kind of wrench I could find to get enough leverage to get it to break free. Keep working at it, you'll get it.2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES
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I've been soaking it with pb all day I've been. Only way to get into is with wrenches but the thing will not budge. I did not take the hose off the bottom because its the exhaust and water outlet that comes in from underneath the boat don't want any leaks I did loosen the clamps but that thing is so suctioned on there and no room or how to take it off and put it back on then I will try for like a hr in the morning I have to get it off and get it rebuilt so can use it this weekend I also tryed a swivel socket bu . No go with that hose there
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Have you tried hitting the bolt with a hammer to try to get it to loosen up? Try that in the morning, and like you said, don't be in a rush and break it off because you want to use the boat this weekend. If you break it off you definitely won't be able to use it this weekend or other upcoming weekends. Got a picture of the tough bolt and problem location? Maybe someone else has a good idea.2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES
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as mentioned give it a tap with a hammer if you can. also don't be afraid to slightly tighten it as well as trying and loosen it, once you get it moving don't just wind it out if it's stiff work it out by tightening it up and loosening further each time.
This job is really one for a socket set and not a spanner though... if you must use a spanner use a ring one not open ended.
another trick is to hit the spanner with a hammer to try and loosen it, impulse based movement has a much lower chance of shearing than just lots of force!
If it were me I would be getting that hose out of the way and using an impact wrench to get it out.
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
x200% on the impact driver. Those things are miracle workers. I dismissed them for years, "who needs that if you have a good wrench", but now I'm a convert. Absolutely remarkable.
I'd tap, use any of the bolt-loosening light oils on the market, and be really patient. REALLY patient. Just imagine how bad your life would be if you broke the bolt. You think access is a problem today....?!?
And start giving serious though to the possibility that you may have to start removing accessories. That hose may have to move, etc. I totally understand your reluctance, but if you must remove the bolt then you must have access. Not having the PROPER access increases the chances of breaking the bolt or something else horrible happening. Which would be worse - removing the hose that gives you clear access, or removing the same freakin' hose after you've snapped the bolt head because you wouldn't remove the hose earlier?
And if you do gain better access, get yourself a battery operated impact driver. Looks just like a drill motor, available from any hardware store. You'll thank me later, it's like a religious experience. I bet you'd already have that bolt off by now if you had access and an impact driver.
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
We need more info to be able to help you. Can you post a photo of the hose in question? Removal process differs depending upon the type of hose.
You should be able to get a decent photo by removing the engine divider - the carpeted "wall" between the engine and the storage compartment on that side. They are designed to be removed for engine access.
I have an EX343 engine, rear-facing in my v-drive boat, and my starter is on the port side of the engine toward the bottom. The exhaust runs along there, a good 4-5 inches in diameter. Is that the one? Or is it another, smaller hose like a water line?
We want to help, but need more data.
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OK update. I took the exhaust hose off pretty much the whole way up to the risers that thing is on there tight took a ratchet but no go. I'm going to put a impact wrench on it tomorrow wish me luc . There is def. A lot more room now now if this. One is not the original starter. They put it on with a impact. With out antisease thanks everyone for your hel . I'm hoping to get this off tomorro . Fingers cross now after this is going to be harder putting it all back together any other tricks be appreciated
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Wa boating. Your correct its that big hose that runs along the bottom for the exhaus . And water comes out on the pickupLast edited by Knowledge101; 07-23-2015, 02:52 AM.
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And if GM/PCM/Tige or whomever just put a top mount starter on the engine, it would be MUCH more user friendly and you would have an electrical component high and dry vs in the bilge.Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter
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