Bent Prop Advice

[H20 addiction]

For price comparison.... ACME will repair the prop for $150-$170 plus shipping.

[JLG]

For price comparison.... ACME will repair the prop for $150-$170 plus shipping.

I didn't even know acme repaired props so thanks. Price is close to what I pay her locally. I like the local place as I can send out on a Monday am and have back Thursday or Friday that week. What is their average turn around time? Not that I plan on sending out that often but had 2 of them damaged last year as our lake are extremely low and the wife tends to hit things!

[H20 addiction]

I didn't even know acme repaired props so thanks. Price is close to what I pay her locally. I like the local place as I can send out on a Monday am and have back Thursday or Friday that week. What is their average turn around time? Not that I plan on sending out that often but had 2 of them damaged last year as our lake are extremely low and the wife tends to hit things!

Turn around time is long, 4-6 weeks.

[Stingreye]

Here is my obligatory link to the thread that saved me when I had trouble taking off my prop.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...567#post706567

It covers the correct way to use a prop puller when the prop won't come off and not to just torque the puller tighter.

From link:

I had the same problem with my factory installed prop. Instead of the recommended 35 ft-lbs of torque, the guy installing it must have arms like a gorilla! No way did I want to get a torch anywhere near my gelcoat.

After many attempts, I called Acme. Their advice: Install the puller between one set of blades, do the hammer/tighten thing a little bit (hammer only on the puller, never the prop itself), then remove and reinstall between the next set of blades. Keep going around the prop like this until you've lightly tapped in all gaps between blades.

It worked PERFECTLY. I tapped rather gently in each quadrant, and when I did so in the last quadrant the prop popped right off. Remarkable!

Now, I put a little layer of marine grease on the propshaft before installation, and I tighten according to spec to 35 ft-lbs. No problems since.

Acme to the rescue again. Those guys really know their stuff.

[boatwakes]

Don't grease the prop before installation, it will actually prevent the taper from seating correctly on the shaft by forming a thin hydraulic layer. Other than prop removal issues (map gas is my friend but we have an 20lb slide hammer for the 26"+ crowd) you want positive contact between the wheel and the shaft along the full taper, that's what actually drives the prop, not the key. If the prop isn't seated correctly it will eventually stress the woodruff key and shear it off and then you're really screwed. Unlikely that anyone here will have that problem but there's the explanation why we don't and you shouldn't do it.

[lee]

These are directions to properly mate your new prop to the shaft taper. The prop is held on by the taper so it is essential that there is a proper fit to eliminate vibration and transmit power effectively without putting undue stress on the shaft. It is said that 70% of the torque is transmitted though the fit on the shaft and the rest through the key/keyway. I, for one, believe that it is actually higher. The proper fit on the shaft means that there will be no slop between the taper and the key.

Here’s what you’ll need:

-Prussian Blue to find high spots on shaft (available at Napa Auto Stores)
-Valve grinding compound (also available at Napa)
-Prop puller
-Wrench
-Key/Keyway
-Cotter pin
-Acetone or some type of cleaning solution


Start by removing the cotter pin. Loosen the Nylock nut or castle nut until there is roughly ½ space between the prop and the nut. Use the prop puller and give the tightening bolt on the prop puller a few direct hits to loosen the prop from the shaft. If it doesn't loosen, you may have to tighten and hit again. Once the prop is freed, remove the nut and the prop from the shaft.

Now that the prop is removed, clean the shaft with a scotch brite pad.

Put a light coat of the Prussian blue on the shaft to detect the high spots.

Slide the new prop on the shaft and rotate back and forth in an arch pattern. Where the blue wears away will indicate your high points. This is where you will work the grinding compound to get a proper lapped fit.

Next, clean the shaft of the Prussian blue and apply some grinding compound to the shaft. Slide the new prop on the shaft and work the prop in a back and forth in half motion turns. The grit will begin to smooth out during the lapping. When this happens, slide the prop off and redistribute the grit. Do this several times until it becomes smooth. Put another light coat of Prussian blue on the shaft to see if the high points have been removed. Add more grinding compound and continue lapping until the high points are removed. After you are finished, slide the prop off and the shaft will have a nice smooth mate finish. Clean the shaft with Acetone.

There should be a definite “line” where you lapped your prop to the shaft on the forward edge. Slide the prop back on and check this line. This is an indication of how far forward the prop should sit on the tapered shaft. Now remove the prop and insert the key in the prop shaft. The trick here is to fit the prop on the taper and not the key. If the prop is not on the forward lapped edge, it’s most likely bottoming out on the key. Remove the prop and slide the key down the shaft and try again. If the key overlaps the prop on the aft edge, the key must be moved forward up the shaft in order to allow room to tighten the nut.

If you are using a new key, it may require you to file one side of the key to fit snuggly in the prop shaft. (Note: the key should fit snuggly in the prop shaft. It should not fall out and conversely, it shouldn't have to hammer in the shaft either.)

Now that the prop and key are in the correct position, tighten the nut snugly against the prop using 30 ft/lbs of torque. Install the cotter pin and bend the legs over the nut.

That’s it. You’ve now properly mated your prop to your shaft.

[TeamAllen]

That is what I heard from my prop guy as well. No grease

[Captainkurk72]

Update: just this morning I got the original prop off. I initially tried a gear puller but then my day ended with driving to urgent care for three stitches in my hand (prop is sharper than I would have thought).
I was then very fortunate to have SBM1234 offer to sell me his ACME 1433. It was in a great shape and saved me enough money to buy the ACME prop kit. Thanks SBM1234!!!!!
Even with the Acme prop puller and big hammer I couldn't get the prop off. I then applied some AeroKroil and let that sit for a week. Still wouldn't move. Then I tried a heat gun (propane tanks empty) and after 5-8 min of heating I lightly tapped with hammer and it popped free. I was so happy!
Many thanks to all that provided input. I read several boat forums and Tige is the best. Thanks and can't wait to try out the 1433. I will be taking the 537 to Mazco for repair.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426369658.323297.jpg


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[SBM1234]

You're very welcome! I hope it brings you hours and hours of enjoyment. Congratulations on getting the prop off and hope you heal up quickly!