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Tranny noise and slipping at low edle??? 2008 22VE

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    Tranny noise and slipping at low edle??? 2008 22VE

    I have a 2008 22VE, and have alittle over 240hrs on it. The boat runs perfect when surfing and at higher rpms. However, at low idle and engaging the boat into forward or reverse, the tranny slips alittle, then grabs after the throttle has been moved forward. Its not much, but there is a delay from when the throttle is moved from neutral to drive before the prop engages. The noise isn't a clunking noise, rather a vibration noise like its low on fluid or something. I checked the Tranny dipstick on the trailer and it was low. I fill it up to the top of the dip stick, then go out on the water and the noise and slipping seem to be reduced, however I then have oil in the bilage from overflow.
    Once again, it runs perfect at higher rpms, no noises or slipping, only at low rpm. I just baby the throttle when putting it in gear or reverse, but still wonder if something major is going on?? I'm about 3 hrs from a dealer, so I diy my servicing.
    Any thoughts or course of action to remedy my issue?? thanks so much!

    #2
    Have you checked the level of the fluid as required in the manual? That is:

    Warm up the tranny first. The rest is easier if you have someone help you in the boat.

    Have a driver stop and put the boat in neutral, then while you have the engine hatch open and the dipstick loose but still in the fill hole, have the driver put the boat in forward for a few seconds, then in reverse for a few seconds, and then again back to neutral. (Make sure they pause a little between shifts.) Then just as they put the boat in neutral after the shifts, you lift the dipstick out, wipe off the fluid, put it back in and check the level before the fluid has a chance to settle back in the tranny from the fluid cooler. The level should be between the marks at that point. That's the only way to get an accurate fluid level reading according to the manufacture.

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      #3
      After that, I would make sure the shifter cable is adjusted correctly. It's easy to disconnect the cable from the tranny lever. Make sure the lever is getting back to the neutral spot every time. You can feel the neutral by disconnecting the cable and moving the lever with your hand. The lever has holes in it that a small ball falls into once in the correct position of each gear.

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        #4
        I hate to say this, but if your transmission is the PCM unit, mine started doing very similar things. The great news is that PCM replaced mine under warranty, no charge, in one of the best examples of customer service I've ever encountered, and everything has been perfect since. Therefore I presume this is not a common problem with the PCM transmission.

        The bad news is that yours is undoubtedly out of warranty by now.

        The one difference that I see reading your comments is that mine wouldn't engage until after the engine RPM's had started climbing. True in either forward or reverse. Adjusting the cable couldn't fix it because it wasn't a "biasing" problem of the cable being too far one way or the other. I don't see you explicitly saying that your RPM's are starting to ramp up first, so perhaps our situations are different.

        I recommend calling PCM and talking to their customer service people. They were extremely helpful when I called them, and even though you're out of warranty they may be able to help diagnose when you describe your symptoms. Can't hurt, and might reveal something.

        Report back!

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          #5
          Thanks guys, I don't know if its a PCM unit or not. I'll be taking it out tomorrow to do the fluid level testing and throttle cable adjustment if needed. Thanks so much, I'll respond asap.

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            #6
            There will be a plate on it with the manufacturer's name and other data. Or, post a photo and someone here will recognize it.

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              #7
              You need to adjust the shift cable so it engages sooner when you shift, not an uncommon problem but can lead to severe clutch wear if left alone.
              Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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                #8
                Ok, so I went out this weekend and after adjusting the shift cable slightly and adding SAE 30 to the tranny box, the boat goes into gear quickly. I checked the fluid levels in the tranny while my friend moved the boat into gear, neutral and reverse. Fluid level was good. Only when we put it into forward gear, with little rpm, do I hear a vibration, clicking noise coming from the transmission. Once I push the throttle forward it goes away and runs perfect while surfing and everything else. No problems when I drop the tranny into reverse, only when barely in gear going forward. The noise doesn't sound good, so there is likely something wrong, but its not a major functioning issue, and frankly I don't want to make this a big deal, but also I don't want to avoid a small issue that could lead to a much larger issue.
                I checked the steering wheel cable, and it is not rubbing or causing the noise. its coming from the tranny box, but that's all I can really diagnosis. My thought is to trailer it to a mechanic for an inspection, but if told I need a new tranny, I'll pass and use the thing until it goes out. Is this a wise thing or not?? I'm really hoping for some guidance guys, I paid a lot for this boat and want to protect my investment.

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                  #9
                  The clicking at low RPM sometimes happens if your engine isnt tuned well. This could be the cause. It shows up at idle speeds when in gear. I know because mine did this too when I put in irridium plugs. My engine didnt like them and my mechanic figured this out. We changed to regular plugs and the rattle went away for the most part. Now it only does it when the engine is reallly cold and barley at that.

                  You also said you put 30w in the tanny box? Are you sure you didnt mean the v-drive unit? The transmission takes ATF and the vdrive takes 30w.
                  Last edited by wired1236; 10-21-2014, 01:06 AM.

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                    #10
                    I would consult the owners manual. The 07-08 tiges didnt not use the B/W Velvet and Walter V-drive like the 06. The Hurth ZF uses Dex ATF in both halves, IIRC.
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                      #11
                      Good point chpthril. Thanks.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                        I would consult the owners manual. The 07-08 tiges didnt not use the B/W Velvet and Walter V-drive like the 06. The Hurth ZF uses Dex ATF in both halves, IIRC.
                        When I got my boat I asked Harvey what was correct since there were so many different things being said, here is his reply:

                        Yes Marine Power changed it to 30 weight motor oil.

                        DEALER: Waterski Specialty
                        REPRESENTATIVE: Tony Fussell




                        CUSTOMER INTERESTS
                        -----------------------------
                        CURRENTLY OWN A BOAT:
                        CURRENT BOAT OWNED:
                        Boat Interest: 22 Ve
                        HEARD ABOUT TIGE FROM: Internet/EmailSEND BROCHURE & DVD: No


                        COMMENTS
                        -----------------------------
                        I bought my boat used and I am preparing it to take out. I was getting ready to do fluid changes. I have the ZF tranny and v drive. It says ATF only but it looks like there is a 30 weight oil in there instead. I have heard that at the factory the were putting 30 weight in instead of ATF to quite them down. Can this be confirmed? Should I drain it and put in ATF or go with what is in it? If not the ATF what should I be using?
                        Thanks

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                          #13
                          Snake, the clicking at low rpm is most likely a clutch contact issue from either low fluid shifting/slipping and/or cable adjustment causing slipping when the shift block was not correctly directing enough fluid pressure to the clutches. When the clutches get warped in those units, they exhibit some weird behaviors and I feel thats what happened to you here. Get an oil sample kit and send it out for analysis. If the unit is working fine now, a mechanic is not going to be able to tell you what the noise is or why it's there unless they know transmissions. Those ZF units can be rebuilt by a certified tech for less than $500 and I can walk you through how to remove it. A new gear is about $3k.
                          Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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                            #14
                            I was told by Harvey at Tige to use 30 weight in both the tranny and Vdrive for my 08 22ve. The tranny says Hurth ZF on it, so hopefully the 30 weight is ok, thats what I have been using the last 3 years.
                            The ticking sound is coming from the tranny, as I hear is much more when I have the seat out and head down in the tranny/vdrive area. When I lift the back hatch, I can't hear it nearly as much.
                            So boatwakes, if the clutches are warped, does the tranny need rebuilt or do I need a new gear,,or both??
                            Dont want to sound cheap, but since this issue is only present on slow rpm initially going into gear, is this considered a potential big problem, or can it cause worse issues if not addressed immediately?
                            I'm out of boating season up here, so I have some time to consider my plan of attack. Does anyone know a good dealer or mechanic in the northwest in the tri-cities, Spokane, CDA area??? thanks!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Internal clicks/ticks with rhythmic turning of the trans in gear should be addressed. Again, order an oil sample kit from Quinn caterpillar or amsoil and do a fluid analysis first. Get the results and let's go over them here. DO NOT change the oil in the unit and it must have at least 10 hours on the fluid for a good analysis. It could be any one of several things but do the analysis first.
                              Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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