I use either Sierra or mercruiser OEM. If you use the Sierra brand you MUST order mercruiser riser to manifold gaskets p/n 27-863724 as the green Sierra gaskets will leak again over time (qty2). You must also use a razor blade and scrape away all the paint on the mating surfaces for both the exhaust manifold and the riser connection faces. The manifold to head face can be left alone as there's no water that passes there.
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2002 Tige 21i Type R 5.7 SKI carb engine knocking sound.
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Hi again now i'm about to order parts for the project.
The mercruiser OEM manifold and riser is very expensive where I live, the offer I got was twice the price of the aftermarket ones. I found OSCO , BARR or HGE they are almost equal prices. I think i'm going for Barr Marine(MC-1-87114 and Mc 20 44354)
Next is the gaskets I need. You say I need mercruiser riser to manifold gasket 27-863724 but shouldn't i rather get 27-863726 where all channels are open?
Also i'm planning to order this "Cylinder Head Gasket Set" - 27-75611A03
Anything i'm missing?
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Look at the existing gaskets to determine if you need the restricted ones. We use them on most applications as they are the superseded number for all mercruiser applications. You don't have to use the mercruiser head set. We use Fel pro marine PN 17232 head set $126Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...
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I ordered the Fel pro gasket set, it will be here in a few days and then I can get started.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind
Step 13) and 16) in your guide how long should I leave it like this?
ATF is gear oil right? So i clean head, valves and exposed cylinders in ATF or only the exposed cylinders?
I'm also looking forward on hearing how to assembly the whole think again I have been watching some youtube guides but they dont do it the same way and i'm still not 100% sure where the different lubes, sealant and so on is to be used.
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Theoretically you can leave the engine like this indefinitely, but obviously you won't. And you're using the ATF to coat the metal and keep it from being exposed. ATF is a great detergent too so when it comes time to clean off the deck surfaces, use brake parts cleaner and paper towels and the ATF will come right off.Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...
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Today I got started with the disassembly. Status so far.
* Visible Water in 2 cylinders on each side 2 4 and 5 7.
* Alot of Mayonaise/rust under the intake maifold
* Water/rust marks in both exhaust maifolds
How can I determine where the water got in?
Here's some pictures and Video's.
Riser/Manifold Inspection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJi4...KCgRUGigoJzhWQ
Intake Manifold https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFYi...KCgRUGigoJzhWQ
Head/Cylinder Inspection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDCF...KCgRUGigoJzhWQ
Intake Manifold Inspection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLAB...KCgRUGigoJzhWQ
Head/Intake Inspection https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsSc...KCgRUGigoJzhWQ
DSC_0325.jpgDSC_0326.jpgDSC_0332.jpgDSC_0335.jpgDSC_0352.jpgDSC_0353.jpgDSC_0371.jpgDSC_0372.jpgLast edited by Ulrik; 10-25-2014, 05:54 PM.
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Ugh. Glad to see you pulled the motor, the whole thing needs to be rebuilt anyway. Everything steel is destroyed and the cast iron needs resurfacing. I'm assuming you run the boat in salt water, freshwater issues don't do that. The exhaust manifolds tell the tale, the gaskets leaked between the riser and manifold. A leaking intake water passage won't allow water into the cylinder, only exhaust. Also the milkshake is emulsified water n the oil and that means the water in the cylinders eventually leaked past the piston rings and then emulsified the next time you ran the engine. Pull the motor all the way down and see if the cylinders will clean up under .030, preferably within .010. Again, rebuild the entire engine or order a new long block from mercruiser or me. DO NOT order any engine from first mate marine or anyone claiming to have a comparably rebuilt long block, it will fail, and usually within 20 hours.Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...
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