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    #1

    Auto bilge not working

    I commented in an older thread how my boat was full of water after a weekend trip. I asked the shop to investigate and they forgot. So instead I got down there.

    First step was checking the pump. It would start with the switch but not the TT. Turns out the fuse was blown. It's just a little 3A fuse. I swapped it for a 5A as that's all I had. Then it worked.

    Filled the bilge with water and waited.... nothing. The tech said they work in a sensor. However no luck. Any suggestions?

    I looked in the bilge and saw two pumps. Flipping the switch ran the right-most pump in the picture. Any idea what the other one is for?



    Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk
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    #2
    There is a little float that lifts to signal the pump on when the water rises. To check the auto function, just take a screw driver or something and lift the float, and check to hear if the pump runs. Some pumps have a little test button or wheel that lifts the float to make it easier.

    On the sensor types, i'm not sure how to test, but just about any pump needs to almost be submerged to kick off, so check if the level is too low to kick it off.

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      #3
      I completely submerged both pumps and nothing happened. The shop said they don't know what the second pump is for. That has me somewhat concerned as to who is working on my boat.

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        #4
        Johnnie, for the 2014 boats, they installed dual bilge pumps. I believe however they added the 2nd pump in front of the engine. I am guessing you just happend to have dual bilge pumps put in from the factory to move water out faster, consider it a bonus if you can get them working. Follow both hoses, most likely they both go to thru-hulls. It appears that sometimes things show up on the boats that were not supposed to be. My dealer ordered our boat without the factory on-board charger as they were going to install one for less $$$, but lucky me it showed up with one at no additional cost. Looks to be the case with your pumps + a free SS washer
        "I think I am pretty smart for an idiot"

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          #5
          Having two bilge pumps that don't work hasn't helped me much so far!! The second one doesn't seem to turn on no matter what I do. I've reported this to the dealer as a warranty claim. At least now that I know about it, I can run the bilge manually for the time being. The boat sits on a trailer, so it will be fine. I'll just take the plug out.

          I enjoy the tinkering too.....

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            #6
            Johnnie in your picture there is a knob to turn to test the float. You can see it just to the left on each set of wires. Turn that and see if your pump goes on. If you can turn it it should also help you know the float works or if some debris got stuck in it. Also notice you have 3 wires from each pump, 1 to switch, 1 hot (for autobilge to battery), and 1 ground. So one of the brown wires needs to be hot in order for the auto bilge to work.
            Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter

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              #7
              Since those pumps are 3 wire pumps, one of those brown wires from each pump should have 12V B+ on them.
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                #8
                Originally posted by Dandy View Post
                Johnnie, for the 2014 boats, they installed dual bilge pumps. I believe however they added the 2nd pump in front of the engine. I am guessing you just happend to have dual bilge pumps put in from the factory to move water out faster, consider it a bonus if you can get them working. Follow both hoses, most likely they both go to thru-hulls. It appears that sometimes things show up on the boats that were not supposed to be. My dealer ordered our boat without the factory on-board charger as they were going to install one for less $$$, but lucky me it showed up with one at no additional cost. Looks to be the case with your pumps + a free SS washer
                Mine has two bilge pumps also though one is mounted there by the rudder and there is another mounted forward just rear of the fuel tank under the V-drive
                "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail" John Wooden- Rest in Peace

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                  #9
                  most likely the fuses are blown for the auto switch function, prob. has 3 amp fuses in them. They are located above the battery's in that mess of wires. You need to upsize to 10 amp fuses to really carry the load of pumping much water.

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                    #10
                    Okay. I swapped the under dash fuse for a 5A.... I'll look for the other fuses now too!

                    Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

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                      #11
                      I looked high and low in the battery compartment and couldn't find any fuses. Can you give me more info? What lines do I trace? Pics?

                      Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

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                        #12
                        The auto bilge wire should be a brown wire, maybe 16ga, but no larger then 14ga. I typically see a round plastic in-line fuse holder, but it could also be an ATO style fuse holder. I would expect it to be either terminated directly to one of the battery B+ posts, or the battery side of the battery switch.
                        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                          #13
                          If I add another bilge pump (only have 1) do I just tee in to the other overboard port of the existing bilge pump? Sorry I can't help troubleshoot the bilge not working.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Ochrod View Post
                            If I add another bilge pump (only have 1) do I just tee in to the other overboard port of the existing bilge pump? Sorry I can't help troubleshoot the bilge not working.
                            Yes, but I would use a Y fitting and also tie the pumps together electrically so they run at the same time. But, if the new one is substantially higher in capacity, it would be best to give it its own dedicated plumbing.
                            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                            Comment

                              #15
                              What do you mean when you say B+?

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