Marine Power winterization

[kmkramer71]

I tried to follow this how to today but want to properly locate the transmission plug and knock sensor. I have a 2005 22V so I think it is just the 2 blue plugs, transmission plug and 1 knock sensor on the port side. I've attached the only sensor I can see on the port side and the only "plug" I can find on the starboard side. The plug is routed from underneath the engine and just loosely sitting on top.

photo 3.JPGphoto 1.JPG

[chpthril]

Nothing in either of those pics is going to drain water form the block.

The first pic is the oil drain hose. In the second pic, that looks like the crank position sensor, but definitely not the knock sensor on an 05 MP.

The KS on your 05 Marine Power will be a single wire, probably blue, sensor and will be located on the starboard side, just forward (toward the front of engine but aft of boat) and just above the level of the oil pan gasket. On the starboard side, there will be a brass engine plug in the same spot, no sensor. This one needs pulled also.

[chpthril]

Heres an 06 MP 340

STBD side w/knock sensor


Port side with brass plug

[kmkramer71]

still cannot locate KS and drain plug

went out to take another look. I cannot find anything that looks like a drain plug or knock sensor.
found transcooler on port side and removed bow end hose to drain
port1_transcooler.jpg
remaining port side transom end
port2.jpg
this is the only wired device on the starboard side
starboard1.jpg
remaining starboard side transom end
starboard2.jpg

[kmkramer71]

I found this in the MP (pre-2011) manual
6.0L: Plug on starboard side is vertically
located on lower block. Use 8mm Allen
wrench to remove. Plug on port side is parallel
to lower block surface. Use 17mm Allen
wrench to remove.

[chpthril]

There yeah go, the 6.0 is a whole different animal from the cast iron 5.7. Now for the next question, is your 6.0 closed-cooling? Most seem to be.

[kmkramer71]

I have no clue. I have what looks to be a heat exchanger and an overflow bottle. So I guess it is closed cool. The document says this about the procedure. So what should I do next?

1. Follow raw water drawing procedure except for the
following:
• Draining manifolds are not necessary unless
closed system is half system type as on
5.0/5.7V EL models. ** I've already drained both manifolds
• Engine block does not need draining
• Circulating water pump hose does not need to
be removed.
2. Remove end caps on heat exchanger. Inspect for
debris and trapped water.
3. Refill closed cooling system according to
instructions in Filling Closed Cooling System
section.

[chpthril]

yep, closed-cooling, so the block does not need to be drained as it is filled with automotive antifreeze/coolant.

[kmkramer71]

here is a top view of my engine

[boatwakes]

The 6.0 is an LS motor so it has different drain ports as discussed above. However, the heat exchanger, located on the port side between the riser and the engine cover, will have a raw water drain port on the bottom side. Be careful because the heat exchanger also has a drain for the coolant. Both ends of the heat exchanger, the end caps, are raw water from the end cap to about 2-3" in on each side. The raw water drain is on the bottom of one side or the other within that space from the end cap. The drain for the coolant is usually directly in the center of the heat exchanger. They're 1/8" pipe plugs and require a 7/16" wrench for the hex head. Be sure to use pipe dope (not pipe tape) when reinstalling.

[loudelectronics]

For the 6.0L MP I simply use a home made fake a lake. I took a plunger, removed the handle, drilled a hole where the handle goes in, used a barbed fitting and some vac hose. Then turn the motor on and suck antifreeze through. I usually use about 6-7 gallons to push all the water out.

Been doing this for years in frigid Manitoba temps (up to -50*C) and never have had a problem in 7 years. Plumbers antifreeze is cheap so run as much through as you need. Just make sure what exits the exhaust is the same color as what goes in. The 6.0L is pretty easy to winterize.

I also add it to the ballast bags and pumps.

[kmkramer71]

this is awesome. seems like that is the only part that is left to do.

The 6.0 is an LS motor so it has different drain ports as discussed above. However, the heat exchanger, located on the port side between the riser and the engine cover, will have a raw water drain port on the bottom side. Be careful because the heat exchanger also has a drain for the coolant. Both ends of the heat exchanger, the end caps, are raw water from the end cap to about 2-3" in on each side. The raw water drain is on the bottom of one side or the other within that space from the end cap. The drain for the coolant is usually directly in the center of the heat exchanger. They're 1/8" pipe plugs and require a 7/16" wrench for the hex head. Be sure to use pipe dope (not pipe tape) when reinstalling.

[kmkramer71]

Your 6.0 must not be closed-cooling if you are flushing water from the engine. Mine appears to be closed-cooling so my engine already has antifreeze in it.

For the 6.0L MP I simply use a home made fake a lake. I took a plunger, removed the handle, drilled a hole where the handle goes in, used a barbed fitting and some vac hose. Then turn the motor on and suck antifreeze through. I usually use about 6-7 gallons to push all the water out.

Been doing this for years in frigid Manitoba temps (up to -50*C) and never have had a problem in 7 years. Plumbers antifreeze is cheap so run as much through as you need. Just make sure what exits the exhaust is the same color as what goes in. The 6.0L is pretty easy to winterize.

I also add it to the ballast bags and pumps.

[chpthril]

Your 6.0 must not be closed-cooling if you are flushing water from the engine. Mine appears to be closed-cooling so my engine already has antifreeze in it.

It is, but you still have raw lake water in the v-drive, trans cooler, heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds. The pink marine/rv antifreeze is not needed, but the water can not be left in there.

[kmkramer71]

ok to summarize so I'm clear

drain both manifolds - DONE
drain trans cooler - DONE
drain heat exchanger (1 plug)
drain v-drive (2 plugs)