Annual Service ??

[Riverside711]

I have a 2010 Tige Z1 with the PCM 343 engine.
My question is how hard is it to do my own annaul maintenence (no winterization, I live in a warm climate). Change the oil and filter, Fuel Filter, impeller, trans and V drive check. The cost last year to me was $645.00, I am mechanically inclined so I won't screw anything up but for those of you that do your own, what is the cost savings and ultimatley, is it too much of a pain?

[dingleberry]

Do it yourself, for sure if you are mechanically inclined. The PCM manual lays it all out pretty good. If I recall correctly, all the parts and fluids probably ran me around $150-200 last year. It's not hard, and can be done in a couple of hours if you know what you're doing.

[chpthril]

Its easy. I would go ahead and change the trans and V-drive fluid, grease the rudder box and add some stabilizer to the fuel tank.

[dingleberry]

Its easy. I would go ahead and change the trans and V-drive fluid, grease the rudder box and add some stabilizer to the fuel tank.

Just an FYI (it is covered in the PCM manual), but the V-drive fluid is only supposed to be checked for level and contamination. Replacement of the fluid is not required unless it shows contamination.

Also - the fuel system uses two fuel filters - a primary in-line filter, and a secondary fuel filter/water separator in a cannister. Make sure to change both.

[chpthril]

Just an FYI (it is covered in the PCM manual), but the V-drive fluid is only supposed to be checked for level and contamination. Replacement of the fluid is not required unless it shows contamination.
.

No substitute for reading a manual

[dingleberry]

No substitute for reading a manual

[IDBoating]

A bit more on this: If you don't have a local PCM certified shop, SkiDim (www.skidim.com) carries all of the PCM-branded components you need at very reasonable prices. They always run a Fall "winterization" sale that knocks another ~10% off, they ship fast, and they have a very knowledgable staff that is always a pleasure to call (in addition to everyone here on TO that is always ready to help!).

For the basic winterization, you will need the following consumables:

* Inline fuel filter (PCM # R080024A)
* FCC fuel filter (RP080026)
* Oil filter (R077001)
* Two gallons of Rotella T 15W-40 oil (make certain it's the "T" version)
* One quart of Dexron III automatic transmission fluid
* (possibly) One raw water impeller (RP061022)

You probably won't use all two gallons of oil, nor the full quart of ATF, and you may not need to replace your impeller every season, but it's better to have them on hand. You'll use them eventually anyway.

The only "non-standard" tool you'll need is a fluid extraction pump. Kevin at Fortes recommended the MityVac 7400 to me and it's been incredible. This will make extracting the engine oil and transmission fluids a five-minute dream. Can't believe I lived so long without one. Available online for less than $80.

[Riverside711]

Thanks everyone. I have the PCM manual with all the spec info. Good info on the two fuel filters, I did notice a small metal gas filter next to the gas tank.
Most boats seem to have a oil drain tube but I cant locate mine to save my life, looks like I will have to get a fluid extractor. Is it better to use synthetic oil or stick with conventional?

[dingleberry]

Regarding the oil drain tube - you should have one. Mine was clipped up near the top of the engine with a brass plug at the end of the tube. Mine was also just barely long enough to get out of the transom drain plug. Unless mine was added by the dealer, or yours was removed previously, it should be around there somewhere.

Regarding the choice of oil - if you do some searching on this site, you will find a lot of conflicting opinions. It is usually interesting reading. But - WABoating did a lot of reasearch, and the only oil that he found at that time that met ALL of the recommended criteria from PCM was the Shell Rotella T 15W-40 that he listed above. Other oils will probably do the job fine, but that is your call.

[IDBoating]

Most boats seem to have a oil drain tube but I cant locate mine to save my life, looks like I will have to get a fluid extractor.

You should use an extractor WITH the oil drain hose:

* It's much faster than relying on gravity;
* You'll extract more of the old oil than relying on gravity; and
* At least in my case, the hose is too large to fit through the hull drain hole.

This last one is a killer. The first time I changed the oil it was a freaking mess. The hose does not fit through the drain hole, which means it cannot dangle down very far, which means you don't get much flow from gravity - and what DOES flow runs all over your TAPS plate and its hinge.

Conversely, an extractor lets you sit in the boat with the hose running up out of the engine hatch. You can see and hear the oil coming out. You get WAY more than with the gravity drain method, and you're done in about five minutes. No mess, no hassle.

Thinking about it, maybe you SHOULD do it the "hull drain hole" way just once so you'll appreciate the extractor as much as I do!

I agree with dingleberry - your engine should have come with a hose. Your boat is a year newer than mine so there's no reason it shouldn't have a hose. Mine runs up the end of the engine nearest the transmission, toward the port side, and curves up and over the top to clip to the oil fill tube with one of those shower-curtain clip rings. It looks like (and may be) black fuel line. Look around a bit, I'll bet it's there.

EDIT: Since he's had it done by a dealer in the past, I sure hope they didn't just drop the oil drain hose in the bilge....

[dingleberry]

WABoating - FYI, my oil drain hose seemed not to fit through the hull plug hole, either. It was a very tight fit, but it does make it through with some careful effort.

But, yeah, I agree that pumping it out of that tube is definitely the way to go.

[IDBoating]

WABoating - FYI, my oil drain hose seemed not to fit through the hull plug hole, either. It was a very tight fit, but it does make it through with some careful effort.

Maybe I just couldn't get the proper angle or something. If that is the intention, Tige could have used a larger hull drain. Larger ones are available. However, I think Tige did it exactly correct - the choice of hull drain is entirely unrelated to servicing the engine because the extractor is so clearly the proper way to do it.

[Riverside711]

I think it is worth the price of a extractor. I will look on the top of the motor under the cover and see if I can locate the oil drain hose. I was looking on the bottom near the hull, I guess that explains why I couldn't locate it.
I read the manual and it said it didn't really matter whether I used synthetic or convetional I still need to cahnge it annually or every 50 hours so I guess I will go with conventional. Thank for the info..much appriciated!!!

[Riverside711]

One last question, do you put the extractor hose down the dipstick hole or can you connect it to the oil drain hose so conveniently located on the top of the motor?

[IDBoating]

I will look on the top of the motor under the cover and see if I can locate the oil drain hose. I was looking on the bottom near the hull, I guess that explains why I couldn't locate it.

Yes, take off the plastic cover and look for a smaller hose that comes up from the bottom of the engine and is plugged with a screw-on brass cap. There aren't that many hoses that have a free end so it should stand right out.

Yes, the extractor will connect to the end of that hose. That's the whole point of finding it. You don't want to go down the dipstick tube if you can avoid it because it's so small. The hose is much larger and the oil will extract much more easily that way. Plus, you're more likely to get more of the oil out because the hose should be at the low point of the oil pan... whereas sticking a tiny hose down the dipstick tube you won't know if you got to the absolute bottom.

I used the largest hose included with the extractor and picked up a fitting for it at the hardware store that mated with the threads on the end of the hose. When I'm changing the oil, I just unscrew the cap and screw on my extractor hose. Then connect the extractor hose to the extractor, pump a couple of times, and sit back while the pump does all the work.