Throttle issues... STILL!

[h2osk8er00]

Still haven't figured this out and not one thread has been able to point me in the right direction thus far.. so I'm going to try to explain my issue if anyone has the patience to read thru it and help me out....

I bought a 2001 21V Limited Edition and this last year I have been having an issue with the throttle not locking into neutral. I can basically go from forward to reverse with no hesitation. I have taken the whole assembly apart many times and after inspecting each component I have come to find out that the teeth on the throttle shift collar (the chrome piece?- not sure of the technical word) is not locking into the other side of the throttle housed on the boat outer panel. It's as if there is not enough inwards pressure from the screw on the neutral detent button to hold the shift plate firmly enough towards the throttle assembly... if that makes any sense. The neutral detent button is pretty shot but I don't even think this is the only reason this is happening because I also have the set screw underneath that has been able to make up for that, I believe. Anyway, I'm feeling like maybe I'm missing a part in there that possibly wore out and broke over the years. I'm not sure if there is a plastic fitting that goes in between the shift collar and the throttle assembly to help bridge the gap between the teeth or what. Hoping you could shed some light on this and pointing me in the right direction. I realize that Teleflex makes the throttle but I haven't had any luck with them as of yet.. Seems like this throttle is different than any they sell now.. I believe it is the MV-2 but I could be mistaken... It has the TAPS tab built into the throttle. Any new ideas would be great! Sorry for beating this topic to death but I know I'm not the only one having issues becuase I have seen a lot of unanwered threads discussing such...

I found this and it looks like mine... Not sure if it butts up the same though.. Has anyone replaced there throttle completely in a 2001 21V LTD?

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=108014

Mike

[boatwakes]

Yup, that's the correct shifter assembly but it doesn't come with the switch in the knob, that's a special order option. We've replaced a handful of them but most of the failures were corrosion related. Take a look at how you shift, how often you shift and what exactly your hand is doing during the shifting that may have contributed to the failure. If you can find the reason, let us know.

[hossdog]

Mine is starting to wear out as well. One thing to check is the set screw on the very bottom of the throttle lever. If this comes loose the throttle will start backing off the spindle and leave room for the chrome ring to push away enough to rotate and then the space where neutral catches will rotate around and then you will never stop at neutral. Remove the throttle and get the ring and assembly all together put it back on and make sure it is pushed in really well and get that set screw nice and tight. I don't know if this will fix it, but it should help if those teeth are not completely blown out. You may be able to buy that new throttle assembly and steal some peaces like the chrome ring to make yours good again, so you can keep your taps switch on the throttle. Otherwise just replace it and move the taps switch to the dash.

[h2osk8er00]

thanks for the responses.. I'm thinking that maybe the set screw needs to be replaces as well... When I took the whole throttle apart I took off the shift ring and it butted up nicely when the throttle wasn't attached... I have come to think it has been the years of the dash taking sun and those panels being pulled off that it just doesn't let the throttle sit flush on there any more.. I tried using a dremel tool and screwed some of the paneling down so that the throttle could mount more flush but it always works its way loose by the end of the day and the chrome shift plate moves freely from then until I re-set it... I think I can make it better and I will keep you guys informed if I come up with a better solution.. anyone that has this issue though feel free to chime in!

[hossdog]

I just had to re tighten mine again last night. I think I am gonna pull the set screw and add some Lock-Tight. It seems like that screw just loosens up too easily. Plus because it is so small and in a bad spot it is tough to really get it very tight without stripping it.

[chpthril]

Yup, that's the correct shifter assembly but it doesn't come with the switch in the knob, that's a special order option. We've replaced a handful of them but most of the failures were corrosion related. Take a look at how you shift, how often you shift and what exactly your hand is doing during the shifting that may have contributed to the failure. If you can find the reason, let us know.

Feeding on this.....if his issue is a mechanical problem with the shifter/lever mechanism, and the knob with the TAPS is a special order/non-standard part, then would it be possible to order the shifter and just transfer the knob w/TAPS over to the new?

[csleaver]

The plastic ring under the knob on the shifter is attached to a rod that runs down the back of the shift lever to a safety catch held in with a pin(at the fulcrum point like a lever). It is spring loaded and makes the catch engage the chrome splined ring to lock in neutral. That is why the ring has to be pulled up to shift into forward or reverse. Check the pin that holds the safety catch in place. Maybe in came out. It is near the bottom of the shift handle. Hope this helps.

[clintedwards]

I have a 2003 22v and when I bought is used, the previous owner had spaced the shift lever out, not allowing the neutral to 'click' into place. I loosened the set screw and pushed it in. Works as new now.