Starting issues

[Zac93218]

For the first half of the season my boat ran flawlessly. Then I decided to do the regular maintenance so I would know when everything had been done, not knowing when the previous owner had done anything. So I changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air cleaner and ran a bottle of engine cleaner through a tank of gas. Everything still ran perfect for a while.

Last couple weeks when I go to start the boat, (about 50% of the time) it will fire right up but as soon as I release the starter it dies. Sometimes it can take as many as 20 tries beford it will stay running. I can rev it up as long as im holding the starter but stay away from that in fear of blowing my starter.

Seems like I have trash in my system SOMEWHERE clogging when it settles. The other 50% of the time it starts just fine and once its runnin there are never any problems while in drive or just idling. its just the initial start half the time not staying started.

Anybody have any ideas as to what may be clogging my system and where? Also how would I go about "flushing" the system or fixing the problem. Its got me stumped!

[skippabcool]

Do not know if this is the issue but do you use gas that has ethanol? Do you use something like Marine Sta Bil?

[Ewok]

Could it be the ignition or "on" switch on your key cylinder are going bad and your getting intermittent control to keep the engine running?

[TeamAllen]

It sounds like "vapor lock" or "hot soak" issue. There are a lot of threads about these topics I don't have time right now to do a search and post up a link.

If it is what I have found to be successful is using Marine Sta-Bil in every tank of gas, running the air vent constantly and letting the engine idle for a short time after pulling a rider or driving for some distance. That lets engine cool down before shutting off.

[chpthril]

Sounds like ignition switch is not maintaining contact when it returns from the crank position to the run position. A simple 12volt test light can confirm this.

[Zac93218]

Sounds like ignition switch is not maintaining contact when it returns from the crank position to the run position. A simple 12volt test light can confirm this.

i think this will be the first thing i try as it sounds to be the easiest to determine and knock out. how would i go about testing it with a test light? i have one but dont know how to use it haha

[Zac93218]

also i use either shell gas or the gas at our local reservation gas station. Dont think its a gas issue though as i had ran atleast 5 tanks through it before all this starting happening.

[chpthril]

i think this will be the first thing i try as it sounds to be the easiest to determine and knock out. how would i go about testing it with a test light? i have one but dont know how to use it haha

There should be a terminal on the ignition switch thats marked with an "R" maybe. It stands for "RUN" This terminal should show hot/B+ when the key is turned to the "RUN" position and then stay hot when the key is returned from the "CRANK" position. If not, this would explain why it runs in "CRANK" and dies when the key is released back to "RUN".

Clip the test light's alligator lead to a known good ground and touch the probe end to the terminal to be tested.