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    Hydro-locked

    Yesterday afternoon we thought we would get in a quick surf session. Third time we have had the boat in the water so this was not from winterization. Problem started when surfer was on the port side. We experience overheating when we weight the port side down and the water is somewhat rough. We figure because of the waves we are sucking in a lot of air. I will cover that in a ballast thread. After a good while of my son surfing, the temp alarm sounded. Shut it down immediately. After a few minutes, started it back up and it cooled down quickly with the lake water. Pulled him back up and after a few minutes the alarm went off again. Shut it down and started changing the ballast to the starbord side for another surfer. After the 15 minutes of draining and filling, went to start and it was stuck firm and sounded bad. Got a tow from a great guy in a bayliner back to the ramp. Got it home and pulled the plugs. Had water in 3 cylinders. Turned it over and it sounded fine except for shoving water out of the cylinders. Sprayed good with WD40 and cranked over a few times and fogged again. Let it sit over night. Oil looks new which it is. New impeller. Will clean plugs (new last year), reinstall, and see if it will crank on the fake a lake. Also had a lot of water in the bilge and need to find the source of that as well. Please feel free to throw out opinions and options. All are appreciated. Sorry for the novel but I wanted to get in all the details.

    #2
    Hydrolock

    Ok, I just went through a hydrolock last year..

    Other things happened, but the long and short of it is pull all plugs as you have done, crank until no water, WD 40 the pi$$ out of it, hand tighten plugs back in, let sit,pull plugs and turn over.

    Make sure nothing got sucked into your new impeller, put a fake a lake on it, fire it up for 2 minutes, change oil and filter, put fake a lake on again, run for a couple of minutes, examine oil.

    If there is water in the oil, it will come out light and frothy in color...

    If all is well, go boating, come home and examine the oil again and if it is not perfect looking,change it. It if looks bad, bad news...

    This is the procedure I used for Hydrolock only recovery.

    This happened to my boat last summer and it is going strong.

    Good Luck!
    Boating Lake Mead since 2000

    Comment


      #3
      On which side of the keel is the engine's cooling water intake?

      Any chance you sucked something up in the engine water intake? When you start it on the trailer, confirm you have water coming out of the exhaust(s)... if not, you don't have cooling water flowing through the engine.

      I'm not yet 100% convinced that there is a relationship between which side you're surfing on and the engine overheating. It may have initially caused it, or it may just be a coincidence.

      Hope it works out... please report back with as much detail as possible.

      Comment


        #4
        The only time it has ever overheated is surfing that side and getting the intake raised up. I kind of figure design before surfing was thought of. Any ideas on how to cure?

        Comment


          #5
          CHANGE YOUR EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND RISERS!!!!!!!! The water is reverting (coming in) through those!!!!!!!! I'll post pictures later of one we just did and saved the motor. Sierra part number 18-1953-2 (qty 2) and Sierra 18-1976-1 (qty 2). They're supposed to be changed every 3-5 years just for this reason.
          Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
            CHANGE YOUR EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND RISERS!!!!!!!! The water is reverting (coming in) through those!!!!!!!!
            That explains the water in the cylinders. But there is still the initial overheat problem, too....

            Comment


              #7
              You might want to get a compression tester... and it seriously sounds like you blew a head gasket. I have extensive experience with failed head gaskets and ski boats.. lol

              Originally posted by laserfish View Post
              Yesterday afternoon we thought we would get in a quick surf session. Third time we have had the boat in the water so this was not from winterization. Problem started when surfer was on the port side. We experience overheating when we weight the port side down and the water is somewhat rough. We figure because of the waves we are sucking in a lot of air. I will cover that in a ballast thread. After a good while of my son surfing, the temp alarm sounded. Shut it down immediately. After a few minutes, started it back up and it cooled down quickly with the lake water. Pulled him back up and after a few minutes the alarm went off again. Shut it down and started changing the ballast to the starbord side for another surfer. After the 15 minutes of draining and filling, went to start and it was stuck firm and sounded bad. Got a tow from a great guy in a bayliner back to the ramp. Got it home and pulled the plugs. Had water in 3 cylinders. Turned it over and it sounded fine except for shoving water out of the cylinders. Sprayed good with WD40 and cranked over a few times and fogged again. Let it sit over night. Oil looks new which it is. New impeller. Will clean plugs (new last year), reinstall, and see if it will crank on the fake a lake. Also had a lot of water in the bilge and need to find the source of that as well. Please feel free to throw out opinions and options. All are appreciated. Sorry for the novel but I wanted to get in all the details.
              So this monkey walks into a bar...

              Comment


                #8
                It is good that there is no water in the oil.... But if you got water in the cylinders, you got serious issues.
                So this monkey walks into a bar...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Have a compression tester and was planning on doing that this evening. Boatwakes, never heard that one. Please post pics and show me what you are saying. Thanks for the help. I will keep up the posting. Also, can the water revert with an FAE?
                  Last edited by laserfish; 06-14-2011, 11:00 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Found the source of the water in the bilge, cracked impeller housing. Did a compression test and all was good. Put the plugs in, touched the starter, and started immediately. Found the leak (not hard) and shut it down, but purred while it was running. Hopefully, dodged a bullet. Boatwakes, I await your info! Thanks

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Sweet...
                      Do watch your temp gauge when surfing. Also consider changing your temp alarm sending unit to a lower temp. I bought a 200 degree temp sender 3 years ago after I had my big issue (Spun bearing, broken rod, cracked block... had to buy a new motor)


                      Originally posted by laserfish View Post
                      Found the source of the water in the bilge, cracked impeller housing. Did a compression test and all was good. Put the plugs in, touched the starter, and started immediately. Found the leak (not hard) and shut it down, but purred while it was running. Hopefully, dodged a bullet. Boatwakes, I await your info! Thanks
                      So this monkey walks into a bar...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I cant upload this pics!!!! I'll try sending them pm...
                        Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks

                          Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
                          CHANGE YOUR EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND RISERS!!!!!!!! The water is reverting (coming in) through those!!!!!!!! I'll post pictures later of one we just did and saved the motor. Sierra part number 18-1953-2 (qty 2) and Sierra 18-1976-1 (qty 2). They're supposed to be changed every 3-5 years just for this reason.
                          I found an exploded diagram and now know what you are saying. Will check it out! Thanks for the help.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If you have to replace manifolds and risers , I would only reccommend OEM , there is a big difference in quality and performance.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Forgive my ignoance, but... why would water backfilling through the exhaust system be corrected by replacing the manifolds and risers? Do they have some sort of backflow prevention that deteriorates with time? I would think backflow would be strictly a function of waterline vs. exhaust design, i.e. don't sink the engine too far below the waterline.

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