Smoke coming from V-drive

[dpickett]

Sorry, I wasn't very clear...I changed the prop two years ago and had to use a torch with the prop puller to get it off. The prop is on now.

I managed to get the couplers apart last night with a hammer and new chisel. I really banged the **** out of it. I'll need to get a new prop shaft coupler as it is damaged from the chisel. The guy from Walter said it's from Marine Hardware, so I'll need to figure out the model and order a new one. I was never able to get the prop to slide back...it seems really hard to move.

I took of the bottom plate from the v drive a took pics of the gears and sent them to Walter. The rep said it appears there is likely too much damage to make it worth rebuilding, so I ordered a new one.

Anything else I should look at replacing while doing this work. First on the list is the coupler and shaft seal. Anything else? I don't know the name but I think there something that pads the shaft as it rotates through the bracket under the boat. Should I replace that?

Quick note that I learned (probably obvious to everyone else)...don't just suck the oil out of the top of the v drive when changing the oil. I've been doing that the last three years while owning it. Not sure about the previous owner. The manual says to drain from the bottom and clean the filter. The rep from Walter said not getting all that oil from the bottom will lead to quicker wear on the gears.

[boatwakes]

Good job on all, that's a tough job. Tim at Glide bearings will have the cutlass bearings as well (they are in the strut and the how to video is in the shaft replacement write up I did earlier this year), replace them too. Pull the prop, get the shaft sent out and checked for straightness and have the place order a new coupler for you, they'll know what to get when you tell them you have a Walter V-drive. Lap the prop before installation, make sure the alignment is correct and have Walter send a new gasket with the V-drive for the coupling to the transmission. If no gasket, you can use rtv sparingly without issue. Also replace the nyloc prop nut with the two piece set from the prop shop, also in the alignment write up. Well done sir!

[dpickett]

Just curious. What makes the Glide shaft seal better than PSS? I thought the fact that the PSS is held in place by two set screws that wear out is not a great design. Leads to failure. However, they had me order a shaft retention collar to put on...seems like it won't slip with that in place. Does Glide use set screws to hold it in place as well? Or some other mechanism? I couldn't really tell from their website how their seal works.

[dpickett]

Sorry for all the questions. I'm wondering if I can get the shaft out without having to take off the rudder. Maybe forward over the gas tank? Looks like someone did some sort of sloppy repair on the rudder. Afraid of taking it off and finding myself needing to fix another thing. Pic attached.

[h2o-ski]

The Glide seal uses a seal like what they use in automotive instead of a carbon seal. The Glide seal is retained by the collar, which is attached to the boot and then the hull, so nothing is on the prop shaft. Glide does have some nice instruction videos on installation and replacement in the Technical Support section of the website.

You can get the shaft out above the hull, you have to separate the flange from the prop shaft. Normally you sandwich a socket between the v-drive output flange and the prop shaft flange and then tighten down some longer bolts.

[gumby]

It will come out the past the rudder also. The rudder is offset a little.... BUT while the boat is down you might as well pull the rudder and reseal. its not that hard toughest part is getting all the old gunk off. I don't think a rudder box rebuild kit cost much if you wanted to do that.I was happy I did mine.

[dpickett]

Thanks for all the advice. Plan to order Glide bearings and a shaft seal once I can get the shaft out and measure the bearings' diameter. I'll also get a new shaft coupler from Marine Hardware as I've had to damage it to get it apart from the v drive. Right now I'm stuck on trying to get the 1 1/16" nut off the end of the shaft (holding the coupler in place). I drilled out the set screw (it was stuck), sprayed the nut with PB Blaster a couple of times, and used a 24" breaker bar (with a block of wood wedged between the prop and hull to keep the shaft from spinning). The nut is not budging. Any suggestions? Pics attached. I'm not sure what the notch in the shaft is and if it has anything to do with holding that nut in place. It looks like some of the nylon on the nut is damaged. Maybe that's holding it in place?

[boatwakes]

Use an air gun if you have access to one. Those damn things are annoying when they get stuck, had to replace my prop shaft because the nut was galled to it so be careful because the block of wood against the prop is okay but you can also use a pipe wrench between the shaft seal and the coupler, that portion of the shaft does not see a sealing surface and can be marred without issue. Your coupler bolt holes look hogged out, what's up there? Keep us posted because if things get crazy (you're on a 5' breaker bar and it's not moving) then a Dremel with a cut off tool can do the job without sacrificing the shaft.

[dpickett]

I don't have an air gun, but looks like I could get an impact wrench with up to 1,400 lbs of torque. Maybe that will do it. I thought about the Dremel, but just afraid I'd cut the threads on the shaft and have to get a new shaft. Guessing they're pricey since the shaft coupler is $300.

I drilled out the holes on the coupler a bit so my longer bolts will fit through. Just getting ready to remove the coupler once I get this nut off. The coupler is toast anyway, so figured it wasn't a big deal.

[boatwakes]

Whoa whoa!!! I replaced my shaft and with a new coupler and it was around $500. See this link to verify yours but you're looking at $550 for a whole new unit with coupler if you need it. https://www.bakesonline.com/marine-h...e-coupler.html
I have the electric impact about which you're speaking and honestly it only got it off so far before the threads galled. BE SURE TO INSTALL THE SHAFT NUT WITH ANTI SIEZE!!!!!!!!!!!

[dpickett]

$300 seems like a lot for the coupler, but I can't find it anywhere. Bakes has it listed for $215, but out of stock. Can't find it anywhere else. https://www.bakesonline.com/mh-coupl...y-walters.html

Guess if it gets stuck I'll end up with a new shaft and coupler for $550.

[boatwakes]

This is where I source our small boat shafts and couplers: https://www.elberts.com/system.htm. Or talk to one of the shipyards up there and find out who does shaft work as they will know what coupler and from where to source it. I.e. tell them you have a double taper 1.125" (1 1/8") shaft and need a coupler for it to a Walter v-drive.

[dpickett]

No luck getting the coupler off with an impact driver (1,400 lbs of torque) and a block of wood holding the prop. The shaft wanted to slide backwards and then the wood fell out of place. Going to try it again with a buddy holding the shaft. Thinking it's more likely I'll just need to cut the coupler or shaft to get them apart. And then end up getting a new shaft and coupler. The combo is $640 for either Elberts or Marine Hardware. Thanks for the link to Elbert's. Not sure if one makes a better product than the other or not.

[gumby]

Did you try to put a big pipe wrench on the shaft close to the coupler let it wedge to the floor? it will mar the shaft a little that is ok if the mar doesn't run on anything like the guide seal. you can clean the mar up after you get it out with a cooke and emery cloth. will look almost like new ALMOST.

[boatwakes]

Did you try to put a big pipe wrench on the shaft close to the coupler let it wedge to the floor? it will mar the shaft a little that is ok if the mar doesn't run on anything like the guide seal. you can clean the mar up after you get it out with a cooke and emery cloth. will look almost like new ALMOST.

What he said