Getting Closer to fix on TAPS 2 issue but need help with additional questions
Ok here is what I have done so far once I get through with all this I will post a complete go by in layman terms so any idiot like me can do it. Unless I never figure it out! Which will happen unless I get some help from members who are much smarter than me.
Actuator questions:
One member suggested it could be the copper wires are pierced on actuator
So, when he said the copper wiring gets pierced is that the green wire or separate internal wires that run the actuator?
If they are pierced would that cause it to stop working or just mess up the gauge? My trim plate still is still working just not the gauge.
Would pierced wires on a working actuator cause the gauge to go to position 8? I assume yes as the actuator is wired to the gauge.
If the wires are pierced on the actuator do I need to replace the unit or just repair the wires?
What I have found so far as it relates to wring:
I have traced the four wires from the motor to the front of the boat and into the 4-pin switch. Then it goes to the two relays. Then from the relay the brown, white and green go off to the toggle switch on the shifter. I am really confused what the trim tab module does as it looks like the boat has a perfect two relay system wired to make it go up and down using the toggle to open and close the correct relay moving the trim up and down without a gauge being involved.
I assume the green wire that comes from the actuator to the gauge must go through the trim tab module before getting to the gauge?
So, does the module work as a type of controlling unit allowing the actuator and gauge to go in a range from 1 to 8 instead of just 1 or 8 without stopping?
Or does it do something for the relays only?
Trim Tab Module questions:
How do I test the trim Tab Module to see if its good?
Is there a way to test the unit as its sitting on my kitchen table?
What do they mean by touching the two green wires from the motor and if the read 241 OHMS the actuator is good?
Dies the green wire from the actuator split yellow and blue at the gauge or the two white wires at the trim tab module?
If the green turn to white at the module do they then turn to blue and yellow at the gauge?
In the wiring schematic below there is no trim tab module wired in this picture so I am unsure of where it goes or what it does?
TAPS Gauge Testing:
I tested the gauge with a small 12-volt battery and it stays at 8 when given power so I assume that is the no resistance side of the TAPS gauge if not it should have went to 1 with power correct?
Toggle Switch:
Also how do you remove the TAPS toggle switch from the shift lever as I want to replace that as well?
Does it just pry out from the front or is there a screw that holds it in on the back of the shift handle?
I assume it is the module or the actuator. Right now I think it’s the module but that is why I hope someone knows how to test the module since its a pricey part to just by without testing it.
Actuator questions:
One member suggested it could be the copper wires are pierced on actuator
So, when he said the copper wiring gets pierced is that the green wire or separate internal wires that run the actuator?
If they are pierced would that cause it to stop working or just mess up the gauge? My trim plate still is still working just not the gauge.
Would pierced wires on a working actuator cause the gauge to go to position 8? I assume yes as the actuator is wired to the gauge.
If the wires are pierced on the actuator do I need to replace the unit or just repair the wires?
What I have found so far as it relates to wring:
I have traced the four wires from the motor to the front of the boat and into the 4-pin switch. Then it goes to the two relays. Then from the relay the brown, white and green go off to the toggle switch on the shifter. I am really confused what the trim tab module does as it looks like the boat has a perfect two relay system wired to make it go up and down using the toggle to open and close the correct relay moving the trim up and down without a gauge being involved.
I assume the green wire that comes from the actuator to the gauge must go through the trim tab module before getting to the gauge?
So, does the module work as a type of controlling unit allowing the actuator and gauge to go in a range from 1 to 8 instead of just 1 or 8 without stopping?
Or does it do something for the relays only?
Trim Tab Module questions:
How do I test the trim Tab Module to see if its good?
Is there a way to test the unit as its sitting on my kitchen table?
What do they mean by touching the two green wires from the motor and if the read 241 OHMS the actuator is good?
Dies the green wire from the actuator split yellow and blue at the gauge or the two white wires at the trim tab module?
If the green turn to white at the module do they then turn to blue and yellow at the gauge?
In the wiring schematic below there is no trim tab module wired in this picture so I am unsure of where it goes or what it does?
TAPS Gauge Testing:
I tested the gauge with a small 12-volt battery and it stays at 8 when given power so I assume that is the no resistance side of the TAPS gauge if not it should have went to 1 with power correct?
Toggle Switch:
Also how do you remove the TAPS toggle switch from the shift lever as I want to replace that as well?
Does it just pry out from the front or is there a screw that holds it in on the back of the shift handle?
I assume it is the module or the actuator. Right now I think it’s the module but that is why I hope someone knows how to test the module since its a pricey part to just by without testing it.