2013 R20 TAPS 2 gauge issue or actuator? Still no solution. Any ideas?

[Seahawks13]

So I worked on this some today and I went through all the old posts. Many folks have had this issue but after they post no one tells me what they did to fix it. Actuator goes up and down but the TAPS gage when turned on goes from 8-4 when switched on but then stays at 8 no matter if I move it up or down. I saw a few folks have similar issues and changed the actuator. Could the signal be messed up at the actuator and could that be sending a faulty reading. The gage is hooked up with a 5 pin housing so how would I ohms test that gage? Has anyone ever fixed this issue and what was it? Also can you even find a TAPS 2 gage anymore? If so where would I look? Or is this just a faulty actuator? Hate to spend nearly $200 for an actuator to have it not be the issue.

Thanks,

Brian

[KoolAid]

It's not the gauge.

Is the actuator moving up and down? If so the issue is the actuator or the Trim Tab Module. Under the dash is a black box about half the size of a deck of cards. It should have a label that says "trim tab module". Unplug is and see where it says "trim input". If you measure ohms on the boat side of the module you should get 240ohms. If you do, trim tab module is bad. If you don't, you most likely have a bad actuator or the wires are broken from the actuator to the module.

[Seahawks13]

I found the module and below is the pictures. So I tested the module by putting the red on the B input and the black on C or ground on the module and it comes back at 180 OHMS not 240 OHMS? So is it bad at 180 OHMS? I used a different digital multimeter and it registered at usually 2.00 and above using the same process. If it is bad where do I get a replacement at Medallion or do I have to go to dealer or boat part store? I really appreciate your taking time to help!

Brian

[lee]

Do you have two left or two right hands? I am sure it helps out a lot.

[Seahawks13]

Lee are you giving me the business because I don't get it! LOL. Guess being under a dash all day is making me goofy. I need two brains with the way this stuff is made. Its so hard to find TIGE parts, no TIGE dealerships answer there darn phones in the parts department, and even Koolaids great tutorial he sent me has the wires switching colors or mine are different than what they are suppose to be. God please help me. Plus as an older retired guy it takes me about three times to figure things out you smart boat folks try and tell me. So I have the darn gauge and module on my table and if I could find two new ones I would just replace them both and hope it fixed the issue. If that didn't work then I would just switch out the actuator. Hell last time I had to switch out the boat power switch, the boat power switch fuse, to finally realize it was neither and had to change the starter last time. I figure as I work my way through this boat and replace parts eventually I will know how to fix a lot of it from just being such a novice at it and trying to figure out what I am doing.

So if anyone wants to tell me how to check my TAPS gauge sitting on my dining room table to see if its good or might be he problem I would appreciate it because I have no clue.

[lee]

You were able to hold a multi meter with two hands and still take the picture.....

[Seahawks13]

Oh I get it now! DUH. But do you know how I check my gauge Mr. Know it all guy?

[freeheel4life]

If you have the Bennett hydraulic actuator it is likey the actuator. The water pushes the plate down too far and then the rod pierces the copper windings in the actuator as it retracts. You can unscrew the the actuator from the cap and physically inspect to confirm. Makes sure actuator is retracted when you take it apart(will have less fluid loss).

[Seahawks13]

So, when you say the copper wiring gets pierced is that the green wire or separate internal wires that run the actuator? But my actuator still goes up and down.

If they are pierced would that cause it to stop working or just mess up the gauge?

Would pierced wires on a working actuator cause the gauge to go to position 8?

If the wires are pierced on the actuator do I need to replace the unit or just repair the wires?

I have traced the four wires from the motor to the front of the boat and into the 4-pin switch. Then it goes to the two relays. Then from the relay the brown, white and green go off to the toggle switch. I am really confused what the trim tab module does as it looks like the boat has a perfect two relay system wired to make it go up and down using the toggle to open and close the correct relay.

I assume the green wire that comes from the actuator to the gauge must go through the trim tab module before getting to the gauge. So, does the module work as a type of controlling unit allowing the actuator and gauge to go in a range from 1 to 8 instead of just 1 or 8 without stopping? Or does it do something for the relays only?

Trim Tab Module questions:

How do I test the trim Tab Module to see if its good?

Is there a way to test the unit as its sitting on my kitchen table?

What do they mean by touching the two green wires from the motor and if the read 241 OHMS the actuator is good?

Where are those two green wires on my boat that they tell you to strip and test with a voltmeter are did they turn the yellow and blue at the gauge or turn into two white at the trim tab module? I am still trying to trace that.

TAPS Gauge Testing:

I tested the gauge with a small 12-volt battery and it stays at 8 when given power so I assume that is the no resistance side of the TAPS gauge if not it should have went to 1 I believe?

Toggle Switch:

Also how do you remove the TAPS toggle switch from the shift lever as I want to replace that as well. Does it just pry out?

The price for the gauge is $81.62 and the module is $182.79. So, if I guess wrong then I will still have to buy a new actuator as well. I may buy the other items to just have since they will not make them soon. But I assume it is the module or the actuator. Right now I think it’s the module but that is why I hope someone knows how to test for me to be sure.