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v drive fluid has water in it

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    v drive fluid has water in it

    I just bought a 99 21v. After the third time out i am noticing that the v drive fluid is takeing on water. It is now milky and significantly over full. Obviously this was caused by previous owners lack of winterization. Any one know were to start or have any experiance with this problem?
    Son, life is mostly scars and souvenirs.

    #2
    Hmm, usually there's nothing to drain in the V-Drive cooler. You could try disconnecting the hoses from the raw water intake and the one running to your impeller. Then you can use a hose to force water into it to confirm that you've got a leak there. BTW, there's a plug behind the v-drive that you can use to drain the water while sitting on the trailer.
    Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

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      #3
      Just to be sure, you mean V-drive, not transmission? it has both and they are sepperate components on that year I beleive.

      If it's the V drive, Id say the cooler rusted through, and not froze. it's not a sealed cooler so it doesnt hold water if it expanded during freezing.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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        #4
        v-drive or transmission

        Good Question. This is the first V-drive that i have owned. I am much more familiar with a stern drive. Looking at the unit from the front after the seat is removed, there are two dip sticks, one at left lower on the unit that has T handle and shorter dipstick, and one on upper right with round handle and longer dipstick. Lower dipstick seems fine, upper dipstick is obviously over full and milky.
        Son, life is mostly scars and souvenirs.

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          #5
          Originally posted by lance View Post
          Good Question. This is the first V-drive that i have owned. I am much more familiar with a stern drive. Looking at the unit from the front after the seat is removed, there are two dip sticks, one at left lower on the unit that has T handle and shorter dipstick, and one on upper right with round handle and longer dipstick. Lower dipstick seems fine, upper dipstick is obviously over full and milky.
          The T handle dip stick back toward the engine on the starboard side is the transmission and will have red automatic trans fluid in it. The Round handled dipstick at the port side top of the bow end of the whole engine, trans, v-drive business is for the v-drive. Sounds like you've got water in the V-drive. Its probably a Walter v-drive.

          Here's a manual: http://www.pearson40.org/walter_v_drive.htm

          Assuming its a Walter, (there will be a serial/model number tag on the unit) the main engine water supply enters from the v-drive's starboard side and passes through the chamber at the top of the v-drive and exits out the other side to the sea water pump. The flat top plate on the v-drive unbolts with eight bolts. Inside you will see a small metal tube snaking through the chamber. That's the oil cooler line. It connects through the case to hoses on either side. (See part #39 on the exploded view on the last page of the "Page 15-19" part of the manual at the above link.) That's tube's the only place I could think you could get water in the v-drive unless the case itself was cracked inside that water chamber. Or, there's an outside possibility that the cover gasket failed at the dipstick hole and is allowing water to get in that way.

          Walter is I think at 201-656-5654 if you need parts or a gasket set. I had the prop shaft output seal go bad on mine last year so went through the R&R and partial disassembly process with the V-drive. You should be able to fix this with the unit in the boat, unless the case is cracked. Walter is quite proud of their gasket sets so you might consider making that top cover one yourself if that's the only one you need.

          There's a square headed plug at the lower aft side of the v-drive that will drain the unit. There's also a hose fitting at the port front of the v-drive that may get more fluid out. There's a strainer-filter behind it. Either way, you want to get that bad oil out soon. Maybe drain, refill, then drain again. There is an oil pump that will have some oil in it so you'll want to drain it again once you've addressed the water source issue.

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            #6
            awsome

            Thank you sir. I will post the outcome in a few days. i will be taking this thing apart tomorrow.

            Son, life is mostly scars and souvenirs.

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              #7
              Originally posted by lance View Post
              Good Question. This is the first V-drive that i have owned. I am much more familiar with a stern drive. Looking at the unit from the front after the seat is removed, there are two dip sticks, one at left lower on the unit that has T handle and shorter dipstick, and one on upper right with round handle and longer dipstick. Lower dipstick seems fine, upper dipstick is obviously over full and milky.
              If in doubt, post a pic! The unit closest to the back, fly wheel, of the engine is the trans, the unit furthest from the engine, with the drive shaft bolted to it going out the bottom of the boat, is the V-drive.
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                #8
                Oh Hell

                Does the Molycote used during the break in period on the V-drive cause the oil to be Milky. Manual says to use motor oil in the V-drive but this stuff smells just like gear oil. I wonder if the original break in oil is still in this drive? Even though the previous owner claims it was just changed.
                Son, life is mostly scars and souvenirs.

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                  #9
                  Lance -- I got a walters and the vdrive uses 30W. My last boat had a walters and it used the same stuff. It should not be milky. Better call the factory and see what they suggest. I called them years ago about a tranny problem by mistake and they were mighty helpful.

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                    #10
                    here is what i did

                    pulled the cooling chamber apart oil tube out, cleaned with wire drill brushes, was able to clean it out pretty well. I could not find anything that suggested a leak. What i did find is that the black factory paint over the entire v- drive and transmision was not even scuffed, (suggesting that the fluid had never been changed). i put it all back together changed the fluid, with 30 weight. Been out in the boat a couple times and drove it hard. im seeing just a bit of milky back in the oil, but no increased level. Pretty sure a couple more changes and it will be fine. apparently this boat was pretty neglected, the block had already been changed because of crack caused from freeze damage. Ill report back after a couple of fluid changes.
                    Son, life is mostly scars and souvenirs.

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