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    Winterization

    I have winterized my boat 2000 20i for three years now, never a problem, but, I thought I would read up on it on this site and I came across a few questions...
    what i do, is...1)fill the tank with the appropriate amount of stabil...2) when I am pulling it out of the lake for the last time and it is on the trailer on the boat launch in nuetral, spray in fogging oil while running when is it at idle and at higher RPM's...about 1/2 a can 3) drain the block by removeing the 5 blue caps, then I remove the 4 hoses on the top of the engine pour down the pink antifreeze into each of the 4 hoses (envirementally friendly, I guess) until it pees out the drainholes...it really only takes 1/2 gallon of antifreeze, if that. 5) Oil change and new oil filter...I consider it done.

    I read that some people spray fogging oil into the spark plug holes, also, I read that some boat owners use up to 2 gallons of antifreeze, (is that with the blue caps replaced in, thus making it a closed system once again) and I see that a lot of boat owners change the impeller and fuel filter each year. I did change my fuel filter this spring but have not changed it since '04, no problems with it ever, and have not changed the impeller since I bought the 20i in '03. Is the 2 gallons of antifreeze really necessary and fogging the sparks plugs holes necessary. Why would the impeller need to be changed. I guess I could be convinced to do the fuel filter annually, if there is a strong argument for it.

    Also, I see that some lubricate/grease the rudder and check the tranny fluid...that I can certainly add to my list.

    Does anyone have any issues with my way? Any suggestions, so far so good in the MN winters..Thanks
    Last edited by snoopy; 09-23-2008, 08:14 PM.

    #2
    I would re-install the blue plugs. Reason being is that the purpose of the anti-freeze is to keep and residual water in the system from freezing, mainly the block. Its just a percaution, you dont have to put any anti-freeze in, but you want to for the reasons I stated before. Usually we pour anti freeze and plug each hole as pink starts flowing out.

    Some people fog, some dont. We did and im not sure if we still need to on our new boat.

    Replacing the impeller is another percaution. Your typical life of the impeller I would say is 3 years. Some people like to feel safe and drop the $30 on a new one each year and start it fresh. If an impeller goes out while on the lake and you dont have a spare it ruins your whole day. If its bad enough it can tear up your housing and damage new impellers pretty quickly.
    Common Sense is not so Common
    Looking for fat chicks for long walks, romance, cheap buffets, and BALLAST.

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      #3
      Originally posted by snoopy View Post
      I have winterized my boat 2000 20i for three years now, never a problem, but, I thought I would read up on it on this site and I came across a few questions...
      what i do, is...1)fill the tank with the appropriate amount of stabil...2) when I am pulling it out of the lake for the last time and it is on the trailer on the boat launch in nuetral, spray in fogging oil while running when is it at idle and at higher RPM's...about 1/2 a can 3) drain the block 5 blue caps, then I remove the 4 hoses on the top of the engine pour down the pink antifreeze into each of the 4 hoses (envirementally friendly, I guess) until it pees out the drainholes...it really only takes 1/2 gallon of antifreeze, if that. Oil change and new oil filter...I consider it done.

      I read that some people spray foggin oil into the spark plug holes, also, I read that some boat owners use up to 2 gallons of antifreeze, (is that with the blue caps replaced in, thus making it a closed system once again) and I see that a lot of boat owners change the impeller and fuel filter each year. I did change my fuel filter this spring but have not changed it since '04, no problems with it ever, and have not changed the impeller since I had got the 20i in '03. Is the 2 gallons of antifreeze really necessary and and fogging the sparks plugs holes necessary. Why would the impeller need to be changed. I guess I could be convinced to do the fule filter annually, if there is a strong argument for it.

      Also, I see that some lubricate/grease the rudder and check the tranny fluid...that I can certainly add to my list.

      Does anyone have any issues with my way? Any suggestions, so far so good in the MN winters..Thanks
      Looking you step-by-step, it looks like you are not running the engine after the oild change? Engine should be run for a few minutes to circulate the fresh oil through the bearings, lifters, rings, etc.

      It's best to reinstall the plugs, and then fill the engine with the pink antifreeze. It will take far more then .5 gals.

      No need to fog through the plugs, the engine running procedure works just fine.

      Need to replace impeller this Spring!!! It is a preventative maint item, dont wait for it to fail while on the water entertaining the in-laws or something

      Trans fluid should be changed annually, or 50hrs IMO. There should be a grease fitting on the rudder box, and a shot of WD40 on the exposed part of the cable and then turn it so the cable is drawn into the sheath, this protects it from moisture.
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        #4
        Looking you step-by-step, it looks like you are not running the engine after the oild change? Engine should be run for a few minutes to circulate the fresh oil through the bearings, lifters, rings, etc.
        that is a good idea...I can certainly do that...have to rig up a fake a lake, again.

        It's best to reinstall the plugs, and then fill the engine with the pink antifreeze. It will take far more then .5 gals.
        I can spend another $4 on antifreeze



        Need to replace impeller this Spring!!! It is a preventative maint item, dont wait for it to fail while on the water entertaining the in-laws or something
        will certainly do that next Spring!, that, I did not know

        Trans fluid should be changed annually, or 50hrs IMO. There should be a grease fitting on the rudder box, and a shot of WD40 on the exposed part of the cable and then turn it so the cable is drawn into the sheath, this protects it from moisture.
        I will start doing this as well!

        thank you, to all for your imput, much appreciated!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by snoopy View Post
          that is a good idea...I can certainly do that...have to rig up a fake a lake, again.


          I can spend another $4 on antifreeze




          will certainly do that next Spring!, that, I did not know


          I will start doing this as well!

          thank you, to all for your imput, much appreciated!
          Why dont you just swap the changing oil and fogging carb part. Thats the way I do it.
          Common Sense is not so Common
          Looking for fat chicks for long walks, romance, cheap buffets, and BALLAST.

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