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    20 hour and winterize

    I am going to winterize my new 2007 20V. I am wondering what the ballpark price would be to winterize and do the 20 hour service at the same time. I will replace the impellar at the summerization time. But, about what price would be reasonable? Thanks.

    #2
    First, I would start with your Tige dealer, I'm sure they would love to continue to service you as a customer. See what they charge and ask exactly what is included in the services. Next, get a quote from a couple of other local, reputable shops.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      ok

      I am starting with them, however it seems these prices are all over the board and there is some negotiation room. I was just wanting to know an average price for this very common service.

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        #4
        Mine was a mind bending $450+ event. That is why I am doing it myself this year (also have a 2007 20V). Read the engine/tranny manuals, there really is not much too it. The only thing I have not figured out yet (and I have not looked) is how to get the water out of the optional heater.

        I've had another brand inboard for 30+ years, and there really is nothing to it. Put in fuel stabilizer, fog engine (although the manual says to only do this on carb engine, not EFI), change oil, drain block and a few other places. Remove battery. Change plugs and other parts as dictated in the manuals.

        Put in new impeller before your next season.

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          #5
          Originally posted by paulct View Post
          Mine was a mind bending $450+ event. That is why I am doing it myself this year (also have a 2007 20V). Read the engine/tranny manuals, there really is not much too it. The only thing I have not figured out yet (and I have not looked) is how to get the water out of the optional heater.

          I've had another brand inboard for 30+ years, and there really is nothing to it. Put in fuel stabilizer, fog engine (although the manual says to only do this on carb engine, not EFI), change oil, drain block and a few other places. Remove battery. Change plugs and other parts as dictated in the manuals.

          Put in new impeller before your next season.
          Pull both the heater hoses from the engine and let them drain.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #6
            Thanks for the heater hose tip. I will be doing it this weekend.

            Also, my garage never seems to get below freezing for any long length of time, but if we get a brutal winter, I want to be safe!

            Paul

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              #7
              FYI. Just spoke with the local dealer about my 2007 20V and their suggestions were to...

              Change oil (depending on hours)
              drain manifolds from plugs at bottom
              drain block from sensors on both sides
              drain Tranny cooler on drivers side plug on bottom
              Loosen impeller housing
              Fuel stabilizer

              I don't have the heater or shower.

              and I think that's it... sounds pretty simple so I'm planning to do it myself.

              Am I missing anything?

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                #8
                Originally posted by g-man View Post
                FYI. Just spoke with the local dealer about my 2007 20V and their suggestions were to...

                Change oil (depending on hours)
                drain manifolds from plugs at bottom
                drain block from sensors on both sides
                drain Tranny cooler on drivers side plug on bottom
                Loosen impeller housing
                Fuel stabilizer

                I don't have the heater or shower.

                and I think that's it... sounds pretty simple so I'm planning to do it myself.

                Am I missing anything?
                G-man,

                Just a couple of changes/adjustments to your list if I may

                ALLWAYS change oil before putting a way for winter, used oil is acidic.

                On the MP's, Ive found it's easier to just remove the water supply hose from the trans cooler to drain, rather then to remove the VERY small plug. It's a biatch to reinstall and tighten plug.

                Not sure what he means by "Loosen impeller housing", I've found that by removing the hose at the trans cooler drains 90% of the water from the V-dive cooler (which has 2 plugs as well) and the front of the engine including the impeller housing. I should add, that if I lived in a climate that had many days at a time below freezing, I would probably pull the V-drive cooler plugs and the hoses from the front of the engine just to make sure I got as much water as I could.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #9
                  Do you guys leave the plugs out over the winter, or put them back in so the boat is ready to go in the Spring?

                  I always had them put the plugs back in with my I/O, but was told you should leave them out on an inboard.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Waterski-Rebel View Post
                    Do you guys leave the plugs out over the winter, or put them back in so the boat is ready to go in the Spring?

                    I always had them put the plugs back in with my I/O, but was told you should leave them out on an inboard.
                    Put the plugs back in and fill engine with pink antifreeze.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Waterski-Rebel View Post
                      Do you guys leave the plugs out over the winter, or put them back in so the boat is ready to go in the Spring?

                      I always had them put the plugs back in with my I/O, but was told you should leave them out on an inboard.
                      The only real diff between an I/O and an Inboard, is the running gear, both use an auto based engine and are mounted in an in-closed engine bay.

                      I always put the engine plugs back in for 2 reasons: we ride year round, when we get a day with nice weather, so I want the boat ready to go as if it was Summer, next, it's not worth trying to keep up with lose parts for the cold season.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                        #12
                        Whats the best way to get the antifreeze through the engine?

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                          #13
                          Try these previous threads.

                          http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...+freeze+bucket

                          http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...+freeze+bucket

                          http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...+freeze+bucket

                          http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...+freeze+bucket
                          Mike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by jmekep View Post
                            Whats the best way to get the antifreeze through the engine?
                            Take the top water hose off of the thermostat housing and slowly pour two gallons of PINK antifreeze into the hose then replace hose.

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                              #15
                              ^^^ why pink specifically?

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