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CAUTION!!!

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    CAUTION!!!

    OK, so I decided to do some preventative maintenance this year including replacing my impeller. I searched the site and followed a great outline (with pictures) that I found and in no time at all I had the job done. Took the boat out on the water the following weekend, launched and took off down the river. Stopped real quick to grab a beer and turn on the ipod when I heard the sound of water rushing into my engine compartment-a lot of water! I had no idea what was happening so I quickly beached the boat and began to investigate. I couldn't figure it out but the water was definitely coming from the impeller housing , so I had to pull the boat back out of the water before it was too late. Got the boat back to the house we were staying at and began to take it apart. I was shocked when I found that the plastic impeller housing assembly was cracked in several places from one bolt path to another . I knew it wasn't cracked when I put it back together, but it was now. Luckily the local boat shop had a new assembly and I was able to put it back together. What did I find inside the new assembly that wasn't included in the outline? DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS!!! THEY ONLY NEED 8 LBS OF TORQUE!! Apparently I overtightened everything and although it didn't crack when I put it together, or when I tested it on the fake-a-lake, it did just as soon as it was under real power/pressure on the water. Lesson learned. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS-JUST SNUG THEM!! Could have been really ugly, but instead it only cost me about $95 and three (3) hours of lost time-I'll take the hit for the amount of stress it caused and number of swear words that were flying--afterall it was my fault!

    #2
    Glad you caught it and are back on the water
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Thanks for the heads up. Most of us do this once a year, and I am terrible about over tightening bolts. Glad you caught it before you had to test your bilge pump. Might want to check it out now.

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        #4
        Could happen to anybody. Good thing you caught it in time. On my old Mastercraft you can actually install the pump housing backwards and city pressure from the hose will go through but in the lake in won't. That was a one time mistake. The pump housing on my 21I though can only be install one way. Right on.
        "I feel sorry for people that don't drink, when they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're gonna feel all day" - Frank Sinatra

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          #5
          Glad your boat didn't sink!
          Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

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            #6
            Originally posted by dogbert View Post
            Glad your boat didn't sink!
            Yeah that would have really been a nightmare...

            I don't know what I would do if that happened
            http://www.linkedin.com/in/zachgarcia
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              #7
              Originally posted by dogbert View Post
              Glad your boat didn't sink!
              That's why I added a raw water shut-off valve in our boat.
              Larger ocean going boats have thru-hulls with valves built right into them.
              Our raw water thru-hulls are usually right under the engine which is inaccessible in an emergency.
              A full-flow ball valve can be added where convenient.

              Stoneman - are you sure the pump didn't seize up and crack the housing?

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                #8
                Originally posted by Lunchbox View Post
                Yeah that would have really been a nightmare...

                I don't know what I would do if that happened
                I bet you do...

                Glad to see that nothing bad happened more than having to replace it. It could have been a lot worse.

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                  #9
                  When I added my 3 intakes for my ballast system, they were all below the water line. I had nightmares that night about my boat sinking. Turns out they don't leak at all and my ballast system works flawlessly.
                  Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

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                    #10
                    My 2002 2000V Limited with the Merc 350MPI has a full brass sea water pump. Plastic pumps do not seem like marine grade parts to me, just for the reason you found.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by noworries View Post
                      My 2002 2000V Limited with the Merc 350MPI has a full brass sea water pump. Plastic pumps do not seem like marine grade parts to me, just for the reason you found.
                      I agree. Is your pump the MERC 46-862914T3? It's actually costs less at BoatBandit.com ($290) than the plastic housing 46-807151A9 ($330). The mounting bracket looks different.

                      Here's a link with pics of the pumps - http://www.outdriveshop.com/rawaterpumpkits.html

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                        #12
                        I think mine is 46-862914T10, but I don't have my engine serial number handy. See this one, but ignore the air fittings on the picture:

                        http://www.perfprotech.com/store/***...,8184-210.aspx

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                          #13
                          The 46-862914T3 and 46-862914T10 are the same according to the "outdriveshop" link. Well, it says "also", which means they painted it a different color or something. Your link definitely shows a different mounting bracket would be needed to change to the brass pump.

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                            #14
                            No the pump didn't seize...it was working just fine-sucking in water like a champ! The housing simply cracked from being overtightened. It was the second time I had replaced the impeller and I'm sure I cranked the bolts down just as much the first time as I did this time-so it simply gave way.

                            The guy at the boat shop did tell me about the stainless/brass housing, but he didn't have one in stock. Said they run about $300. I took what he had for $95 and figured it be worth looking into an upgrade next year.

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                              #15
                              This is the first year I had to replace my impeller housing and it's plastic. Whatever I sucked up in there got ground up pretty bad because it marred the housing something aweful. I wonder if the same thing happened with a brass housing whether or not it would have been marred like that.
                              Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

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