Oil change on the MP 380hp 6.0 2005 24V

[TigeDuner]

I changed the oil yesterday which was a pretty simple task.
1. Pulled the drain hose through the drain hole just above the TAPS plate.
2. Warmed engine for 5 or 10 minutes with the fake-a-lake.
3. Removed the cap off the drain hose (added a piece of clear hose to get it to clear the TAPS plate and waited.
4. And waited.
5. And waited.
6. Finally the oil began to flow but way to slow.
7. Hookup up an old RV water pump I found in the shop to a 12 volt battery and connected it to the drain line and sucked out the oil in less than 3 minutes.
8. Put the cap on the drain line and pushed it back through the drain and put the plug in the hull.
9. Secured the drain line inside the bilge area.
10. Changed the oil filter (Fram PH8A is what was on it)
11. Since the 6.0 filter is high on the engine, changing the filter was simple and clean. I put a small bucket under the filter to catch what came out while removing the filter.
12. Filling with oil is where things got interesting. I put in 5 quarts of 10w30 Quaker State (MP said their manuals are old and need to be updated and to use a good multi-grade oil. The oil cap says 5w30 but MP said to use 10w30).
13. Started the engine, ran a few minutes, saw pressure was good, shut it down, waited, and check the oil. The oil barely showed on the stick.
14. Added another quart, checked the oil, getting higher.
15. Added another quart (#7), checkled oil, getting higher.
16. Decided to check how much was sucked out. I filled up the 5 quart jug and almost 3 quart bottles.
17. Checked the oil the next day to allow the oil to drain back into the pan.
18. The oil is now showing up just below hash marks and holes in the dipstick.
19. Back to the store for more oil.
20. Added another quart (#8). Checked oil again, finally in the safe range.

I would never have guessed that the 6.0 needed 8+ quarts to fill the pan and filter.

[evil0ne]

Thanks for the writeup. One of these days I'll do it myself.

[TigeDuner]

I changed the oil yesterday which was a pretty simple task.
1. Pulled the drain hose through the drain hole just above the TAPS plate.
2. Warmed engine for 5 or 10 minutes with the fake-a-lake.
3. Removed the cap off the drain hose (added a piece of clear hose to get it to clear the TAPS plate and waited.
4. And waited.
5. And waited.
6. Finally the oil began to flow but way to slow.
7. Hookup up an old RV water pump I found in the shop to a 12 volt battery and connected it to the drain line and sucked out the oil in less than 3 minutes.
8. Put the cap on the drain line and pushed it back through the drain and put the plug in the hull.
9. Secured the drain line inside the bilge area.
10. Changed the oil filter (Fram PH8A is what was on it)
11. Since the 6.0 filter is high on the engine, changing the filter was simple and clean. I put a small bucket under the filter to catch what came out while removing the filter.
12. Filling with oil is where things got interesting. I put in 5 quarts of 10w30 Quaker State (MP said their manuals are old and need to be updated and to use a good multi-grade oil. The oil cap says 5w30 but MP said to use 10w30).
13. Started the engine, ran a few minutes, saw pressure was good, shut it down, waited, and check the oil. The oil barely showed on the stick.
14. Added another quart, checked the oil, getting higher.
15. Added another quart (#7), checkled oil, getting higher.
16. Decided to check how much was sucked out. I filled up the 5 quart jug and almost 3 quart bottles.
17. Checked the oil the next day to allow the oil to drain back into the pan.
18. The oil is now showing up just below hash marks and holes in the dipstick.
19. Back to the store for more oil.
20. Added another quart (#8). Checked oil again, finally in the safe range.

I would never have guessed that the 6.0 needed 8+ quarts to fill the pan and filter.

It took a total of 9 quarts to fill it up. And 2 trips to the store for oil.

[jsz]

Was the boat level? I think the best oil level reading is when the bow is slightly raised (simulating how v-drives usually sit in the water).

If you can't find the capacity in any of your manuals, I'd call a Tige service center. Too much oil is probably not good either.

[Matt Garcia]

Also removing the oil cap allows the oil to "breathe" which allows it to drain faster down the drain hose.

[dogbert]

Hey, what if we got the specs for the fluid volume for the different engines and maybe we could get Matt to post it on the Specs section or in a sticky.

[TigeDuner]

Also removing the oil cap allows the oil to "breathe" which allows it to drain faster down the drain hose.

I removed the oil filler cap but it didn't make that much of a difference since the drain hose is pretty small. The pump is what made the HUGE difference. I also cranked the trailer up in the front to get the boat as level as possible when checking the oil.

[dogbert]

I used to use that kind of oil pump on my previous boat and it was was slick.

[Matt Garcia]

I removed the oil filler cap but it didn't make that much of a difference since the drain hose is pretty small. The pump is what made the HUGE difference. I also cranked the trailer up in the front to get the boat as level as possible when checking the oil.

Ah ok, thought maybe you missed that.

[TigeDuner]

I used to use that kind of oil pump on my previous boat and it was was slick.

Slick, as in 10w30?????