Fuel control cell element replace

[bellemd]

Hello fellow Tige owners!
I have a 2013 RZ2 with a 343 with about 300 hours use. How often should you change out the fuel control cell element? I change out the fuel/water separator canister filter every year but haven’t changed the fuel control cell element since I purchased the boat 3 years ago.
Any tricks to pulling the old one out and installing a new one would be appreciated as well. Thanks and stay safe!

[IDBoating]

I'm confused. I have the EX343 engine too with its FCC. If by "fuel control cell element" you mean the round filter within the FCC, that IS the fuel water separator. Are you saying you have a separate fuel/water separator in addition to the FCC?

EDIT: This is straight from the EX343 manual: "The fuel delivered to the engine by the FCC is filtered by a filter and water separator element, which surrounds the high pressure pump inside the FCC bowl." This is why the aluminum canister (the "bowl") has a brass drain plug... so you can drain the water out of it. (You also drain it when changing the filter, of course.)

To answer your original question: I change the FCC's internal filter roughly every 100 hours of engine operation, and no less than every other calendar year at winterization. It's not tough to swap out except for its inconvenient location... getting that aluminum canister off the FCC head is tough when it's stuck in there between an engine stringer, the muffler, etc. Tip: The fuel pump assembly wires and hoses are a lot more flexible than you'd think. Be careful, but they will flex to make things easier. Be REALLY careful to get both new o-rings on the aluminum canister before you reassemble it to the FCC head.

I change the inline fuel filter (the traditional looking, "in the hose" filter) every year at winterization. Yes, it's probably not necessary to do it that frequently. But it's cheap insurance.

[shakey84cj]

Hello fellow Tige owners!
I have a 2013 RZ2 with a 343 with about 300 hours use. How often should you change out the fuel control cell element? I change out the fuel/water separator canister filter every year but haven’t changed the fuel control cell element since I purchased the boat 3 years ago.
Any tricks to pulling the old one out and installing a new one would be appreciated as well. Thanks and stay safe!

I haven't done mine myself but am just about to do it in the days to come and my friend who also has an ex343 came upon this thread as he was searching something for me. I thought I'd share the maintenance manual says in case you don't have it. I'll attach a few pics for you in a following reply.
also, dis you happen to find a fuel/water separator canister filter other than the PCM one that works and if so would you please be so kind as to share the part number here? I'm striking out everywhere trying to cross reference it and don't wanna pay Tige dealer prices if i can help it. Cheers.

[shakey84cj]

C0B7FCF2-5241-4AF6-8E6B-6BC7BAFB1372.jpg
EF639C3E-8A1B-4CFA-970B-C4B5C3490E48.jpg
3292B19F-98A1-4064-9B52-8968A84683B2.jpg
07418BB0-D01D-4DF4-A2F1-1F616FC7B426.jpg

[shakey84cj]

Hope those help!

[shakey84cj]

I'm confused. I have the EX343 engine too with its FCC. If by "fuel control cell element" you mean the round filter within the FCC, that IS the fuel water separator. Are you saying you have a separate fuel/water separator in addition to the FCC?

EDIT: This is straight from the EX343 manual: "The fuel delivered to the engine by the FCC is filtered by a filter and water separator element, which surrounds the high pressure pump inside the FCC bowl." This is why the aluminum canister (the "bowl") has a brass drain plug... so you can drain the water out of it. (You also drain it when changing the filter, of course.)

To answer your original question: I change the FCC's internal filter roughly every 100 hours of engine operation, and no less than every other calendar year at winterization. It's not tough to swap out except for its inconvenient location... getting that aluminum canister off the FCC head is tough when it's stuck in there between an engine stringer, the muffler, etc. Tip: The fuel pump assembly wires and hoses are a lot more flexible than you'd think. Be careful, but they will flex to make things easier. Be REALLY careful to get both new o-rings on the aluminum canister before you reassemble it to the FCC head.

I change the inline fuel filter (the traditional looking, "in the hose" filter) every year at winterization. Yes, it's probably not necessary to do it that frequently. But it's cheap insurance.

It appears as though things got changed up a bit starting the 2011 model year. Just figured this out today actually as I'm trying to find a replacement for my 2011 and asked my fried with his 2010 and he doesn't have a spin-on filter either, just an inline filter as you've described. Is your boat a 2010 or earlier by chance? Check out the pics of my manual above if you're interested.

[freeheel4life]

There are two designs. If you buy the kit from PCM they include the O rings for both designs so you can't go wrong.

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...part-rp080026/

^^not sure what your dealer charges but this is about the cheapest easiest place I know to get them online. IIRC the 2 same sized orings are for the newer style and the single larger one is for the older style in the kit.

[shakey84cj]

There are two designs. If you buy the kit from PCM they include the O rings for both designs so you can't go wrong.

https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...part-rp080026/

^^not sure what your dealer charges but this is about the cheapest easiest place I know to get them online. IIRC the 2 same sized orings are for the newer style and the single larger one is for the older style in the kit.

Was this in reards to my queery or the other fella?

[freeheel4life]

I guess kind of both. Generally a post for anyone that may want to replace the filter. You still busy doing oil/gas or has the price/barrel tanked production??

[shakey84cj]

I guess kind of both. Generally a post for anyone that may want to replace the filter. You still busy doing oil/gas or has the price/barrel tanked production??

Thanks, I’m looking for the spin-on filter under the floor though. I’m no longer doin that no, I’m working at home now and have been for a while now. Natural gas pricing is strong at the moment though, the company I used to contract to is full bore ahead.

[freeheel4life]

I've been gone all winter from the shop and don't have all my filter #s memorized still. I will post the Sierra filter # tomorrow. Hope working from home is treating you well.

[shakey84cj]

I've been gone all winter from the shop and don't have all my filter #s memorized still. I will post the Sierra filter # tomorrow. Hope working from home is treating you well.

That’d be great, thanks man!

[freeheel4life]

Shake, Sierra 18-7844 and 18-7845 both work in your application. They have the same GPH and Micron ratings. The 7845 is just simply a larger filter.

[bellemd]

Thanks so much for your reply and information. Yes, mine has a canister screw on fuel filter next to the oil filter. I do have a new fuel cell filter and will attempt to replace in the coming weeks. I have never changed the fuel cell filter and har put on approx 150 hours since I purchased it used several years ago.
Thanks again for taking the time!

[bellemd]

Thanks so much for the reply and info. I will definitely try this on my own in the coming weeks.