Help! Oil Change 08’ 22VE any info appreciated!

[lukefoster]

Hello, I am looking for any advice/direction on changing the oil in my 2008 Tige 22ve. I recently purchased it and would like to perform the oil change on my own. Any advice would be great, I really appreciate the help.

[Jetdriver]

It’s a pretty easy process made easier by buying a couple cheap items. You’ll need a pump, I bought a cheap hand operated pump (you can purchase one at any auto parts store) a hose clamp and an air compressor fitting. Here’s a pic I stole from a previous post by another Tige’ Owner of the items I’m talking about.

22DAC416-5B1B-46E8-9B42-7E51009957A8.jpg

-bring the engine up to temp (either change it after you get off the water or run it on a garden hose at idle for 10-15 minutes, it’ll drain way easier when warm)
-locate your oil drain hose on the port side of the engine. It could be laying in your bilge or possibly attached to something hanging on the side. It’s just a black rubber hose about 1/2-3/4 inch diameter and a couple feet long with a brass end cap on it that comes off the oil pan.
- this is best done while kneeling in the locker in my opinion. Using the pump you got attach the hose to the compressor fitting with the hose clamp then unscrew the end cap on the oil drain line holding it up as high as you can to avoid spills. (Be prepared with rags and drain pan) Screw the compressor fitting onto the end of the oil drain hose. Attach the other end to your pump, the other hose goes from the pump to your container of choice. I use old windshield fluid or old 4 quart oil container bottles. Don’t use milk jugs, too thin.
-start pumping, long slow strokes works best (as with most things) it takes awhile but you’ll be able to tell when it’s getting to the bottom.
-recap the drain line and move to the starboard locker. I like to use a gallon freezer bag for this step. Use a filter wrench or strap to loosen the oil filter. It’ll be on the starboard front of the engine (actually the back of the engine because it’s mounted in th3 boat backwards but...) As soon as the filter is loose get the freezer bag around it and loosen the rest of the way by hand containing any spillage to the bag. Again have rags handy.
-apply some new oil to the lip of the new oil filter seal, turn on to hand tight only then back it off a tad. DONT CRANK IT DOWN, it’ll be hell to remove next time.
-add oil of your choice to the oil fill port on top of the port side of engine. Capacity is 5 quarts but it typically takes about 4.5 quarts because of the residual that’s not removed. I like to put 4 in, run it for a few minutes, shut it down, wait 10-15 minutes then check the oil and add more according to where you’re at on the dipstick. Any 15W-40 will do fine. I’ve used a few different oils and there’s tons of reading on here about which type to use. Shell rotella T semi synthetic or full synthetic is farely cheap and available everywhere. After that you’re done.
I always change all my fluids at the end of the year during winterization so the boat sits with clean fluids and is ready to go come summer. Then I change the engine oil once more during mid summer. The key is not so much what oil you run but to change it often.

Here’s a screen shot of a bunch of parts and oil types for your boat also taken from another member here. There’s a ton of info on here. Use the search function. There’s a lot of maintenance write ups in the how to section regarding most anything you could think of doing.

I’m a nice guy and I’m bored on the road so here’s a freebie

Cheers

361CB756-7694-44F0-A68E-C3A95227B5EB.jpg

[twinturbostroker]

I prefer this pump.

https://m.northerntool.com/products/...rce=Google_PLA

It’s definitely worth the extra cost and if properly cared for will last the average enthusiast a lifetime.

[Jetdriver]

I prefer this pump.

https://m.northerntool.com/products/...rce=Google_PLA

It’s definitely worth the extra cost and if properly cared for will last the average enthusiast a lifetime.

I like the pump but prefer to avoid removing through the dipstick. I feel like you get a better drain of the old fluid by using the drain hose as it’s attached to the drain fitting at the lowest point of the oil pan. I could be wrong, it’s happened before.
I’m guessing I could still hook the end of the hose to a compressor fitting the same way, for $45 bucks it sure is more robust than my plastic cheapy pump and I like that the oil is contained in it.
The cheapy has last me 3 summers and probably 10 oil changes though.

[twinturbostroker]

I hear you on the lowest point, however, if your engine’s oiling system is functioning properly the minute amount than may reside in the drain line (20-30 milliliters) of leftover oil is not going to present any issues for the fresh oil and a new oil filter.

My rig lives in the boat house, and this pump saves time, no mess, no tools, (other than a filter wrench). Walk down with any empty siphon can, a filter, filter wrench, and new oil. The entire job is complete in about 10 minutes. Old oil is contained, thus aleviating any waste oil transport concerns.

Running the oil drain hose through the hull’s drain plug port and then onto another craft (e.g.paddleboat or johnboat) introduces a couple more variables in the waste oil recovery process. If your rig is on the trailer no big deal, other than running on the hose to warm the oil, and routing the oil line through the hull. (Assuming there in an oil line running from the pan’s drain plug into the bilge), if not, that could be another tutorial.

[Jetdriver]

The simplicity of that is most definitely appealing! I appreciate you posting here and costing me another $45! Haha
You’re right about the minimal amount of oil left but as you know the bottom of the barrel is ususally the most mucked up. With regular changes it’s not really gonna matter though.
I think you sold me on that type of pump though, it’s worth it for a DIYer no doubt. I hate paying people to do what I can easily do myself. A pump like that would definitely refine my procedure and make it more simple and minimize the risk of spills.

Re: the drain hose, I don’t bother routing it out the bilge drain, that’s a chore and I’m not as flexible as I once was! I just pull the port locker wall out and do it right there, I’ve yet to spill in there but it is a risk.

[lukefoster]

Thank you very very much, I really appreciate your information. You saved me a ton of time and headache!! Thanks again!!!

[freeheel4life]

That write up is good. I personally wouldn't subscribe to the oil filters backed off. I run em up until gasket touches and the give it 1/2 to 3/4 turn more. I have seen loose filters blow oil into bilges before.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/JABSCO-12...&wl13=&veh=sem
These guys aren't cheap but they rock and if you plan on doing oil changes for a long time it pays itself off. Slide the end of hose over your oil change hose and hit the switch. Pretty much sucks a pan dry in just a few minutes.
I do a few hundred oil changes a year and would buy one for personal use if I owned a boat. I use it to suck trans and vdrive as well with some custom made hoses.
It does use a different impeller than ballast jabsco that stands up to used oils pretty well. I rarely need to change one. Again, may not be economical for the DIY guy but would pay itself off after your second oil change compared to dealer.
Does your 2008 have a Marine Power or A PCM??

[Jetdriver]

^ now we’re fishing with dynamite! I like it but I’m a cheap SOB Freeheel! You’re probably right about the filter although I’ve never had one leak on me. It is kinda a feel thing that you learn after doing it a bunch. That’s the way my old man taught me back in the day. I’ve had to massacre a buddies on his boat after the last guy put it on too tight, probably used a wrench.

[freeheel4life]

I hear ya Jet, they aren't cheap. I couldn't do without it. I have some old reclaimed Jabscos that could be converted to do this with an impeller change and a trip to the plumbing store. Would gladly hook ya up on one. I refurbish old pumps and hoard them for our winterization carts. Have 2 reversible on each setup so I keep the refurbed ones around in case one goes down while we are busy.

The filter tightness is definitely a feel thing. I have some pretty nice oil filter wrenches that have this abrasive that helps them grab the filter. It looks almost like welding flux/spatter in patches all the way around the steel strap. I still have 1 or 2 filters a year that get the ol' long punch thru and thru treatment. I end up taking off a lot of the filters I put on so that seems to help with the learning how tight thing

[lukefoster]

Thank you very much, freeheel4life! My boat has the MarinePower.

[freeheel4life]

Awesome Luke. If you dont have service records from previous owner I would consider doing the fuel filter As well.
https://marineenginedepot.com/MP/mar...essories/2000/
This site is Marine Powers parts so you can just about everything for your engine here. Impeller is always a good idea as well if you don't know when it has been done. The above screenshot that Jetdriver posted is definitely bang on as far as your specific engine info. The only one I question is I seem to remeber the impeller being a Jabsco on Marine Power but who knows, you could have a Johnson pump. Taking the face plate off the RWP should answer that.

[Jetdriver]

My 07 22VE has a Johnson pump. Marine power 340

[lukefoster]

It’s a pretty easy process made easier by buying a couple cheap items. You’ll need a pump, I bought a cheap hand operated pump (you can purchase one at any auto parts store) a hose clamp and an air compressor fitting. Here’s a pic I stole from a previous post by another Tige’ Owner of the items I’m talking about.

[ATTACH]48076[/ATTACH]

-bring the engine up to temp (either change it after you get off the water or run it on a garden hose at idle for 10-15 minutes, it’ll drain way easier when warm)
-locate your oil drain hose on the port side of the engine. It could be laying in your bilge or possibly attached to something hanging on the side. It’s just a black rubber hose about 1/2-3/4 inch diameter and a couple feet long with a brass end cap on it that comes off the oil pan.
- this is best done while kneeling in the locker in my opinion. Using the pump you got attach the hose to the compressor fitting with the hose clamp then unscrew the end cap on the oil drain line holding it up as high as you can to avoid spills. (Be prepared with rags and drain pan) Screw the compressor fitting onto the end of the oil drain hose. Attach the other end to your pump, the other hose goes from the pump to your container of choice. I use old windshield fluid or old 5 quart oil container bottles. Don’t use milk jugs, too thin.
-start pumping, long slow strokes works best (as with most things) it takes awhile but you’ll be able to tell when it’s getting to the bottom.
-recap the drain line and move to the starboard locker. I like to use a gallon freezer bag for this step. Use a filter wrench or strap to loosen the oil filter. It’ll be on the starboard front of the engine (actually the back of the engine because it’s mounted in th3 boat backwards but...) As soon as the filter is loose get the freezer bag around it and loosen the rest of the way by hand containing any spillage to the bag. Again have rags handy.
-apply some new oil to the lip of the new oil filter seal, turn on to hand tight only then back it off a tad. DONT CRANK IT DOWN, it’ll be hell to remove next time.
-add oil of your choice to the oil fill port on top of the port side of engine. Takes about 5.5 quarts. I like to put 5 in, run it for a few minutes, shut it down, wait 10-15 minutes then check the oil and add more according to where you’re at on the dipstick. Any 15W-40 will do fine. I’ve used a few different oils and there’s tons of reading on here about which type to use. Shell rotella T semi synthetic or full synthetic is farely cheap and available everywhere. After that you’re done.
I always change all my fluids at the end of the year during winterization so the boat sits with clean fluids and is ready to ge come summer. Then I change the engine oil once more during mid summer. The key is not so much what oil you run but to change it often.

Here’s a screen shot of a bunch of parts and oil types for your boat also taken from another member here. There’s a ton of info on here. Use the search function. There’s a lot of maintenance write ups in the how to section regarding most anything you could think of doing.

I’m a nice guy and I’m bored on the road so here’s a freebie

Cheers

[ATTACH]48077[/ATTACH]

Thank you very much Jetdriver I seriously appreciate your help! This forum is awesome, I have learned a ton of great information from you guys!! Thanks again, have a great day!


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