Sorry. Dont know how I missed this thread. We are coming into wint season. I will take some pics how I do it on the next one that come through.
Johnnie, IDboating, and BC rider all get the same result, Im kind of a mix between all 3. I drain block and manifolds, if theres a heater I pull off the heater line and blow it out with REGULATED compressed air. 10PSI and the first couple of shots of air I dont just let er rip. Dont want to blow holes in the heater core. Once I start getting mist out of the block plugs I put plugs back in. Then fake a lake like BCrider, except I use a trough to catch all my pink stuff out the exhaust and a pump that recircs the antifreeze back to my intake at the v drive. This way im not sending antifreeze down the drain(yes its "environmentally friendly PG not EG) but the goal is to get it all in the engine, coolers, exhchangers, block, and manifolds and have zero waste antifreeze. Also, if a dripless packing I pinch the hose off so I don't dump antifreeze on the floor.
So basically all the water is predrained minus the pesky little cooler plugs on the intake water line and some of the other hard to reach areas(the four plugs I pull remove a bulk of the water that will dilute antifreeze), but since Im running antifreeze the water gets flushed out. As a bonus since Im recirculating antifreeze in a loop I can run until the thermostat opens to make sure ALL water is flushed out of the block.
We use -50* antifreeze but we know that there are little bits of water like IDboating mentioned. I check burst point with a refractometer on each boat and when the mix starts creeping towards a -30* burst point we add some -100* until its back to -50* or even colder. The refractometer is the real insurance policy when doing a lot of boats with this method. If you started with -50 at home its unnecessary IF you are pre draining AND running antifreeze.
Dont forget to kick the shower pump on and open both mixing valves and run shower head into trough until it turns pink(if equipped with shower).
We mostly settle on this process as it literally requires an owner to turn on master switch and put in bilge plugs to start the next season. No trip back to the us required. The main takeaway is getting a pump and a trough in the mix, but thats because we are winterizing a LOT of boats. If a guy used this method at home he could continually recycle antifreeze and only concentrate it to a higher burst point as necessary.
Sorry for being long winded. Thats how we do it, will post pics as soon as we have one(PCM 343) in. Mostly been winting I/Os that are done marina storing for the year
Johnnie, IDboating, and BC rider all get the same result, Im kind of a mix between all 3. I drain block and manifolds, if theres a heater I pull off the heater line and blow it out with REGULATED compressed air. 10PSI and the first couple of shots of air I dont just let er rip. Dont want to blow holes in the heater core. Once I start getting mist out of the block plugs I put plugs back in. Then fake a lake like BCrider, except I use a trough to catch all my pink stuff out the exhaust and a pump that recircs the antifreeze back to my intake at the v drive. This way im not sending antifreeze down the drain(yes its "environmentally friendly PG not EG) but the goal is to get it all in the engine, coolers, exhchangers, block, and manifolds and have zero waste antifreeze. Also, if a dripless packing I pinch the hose off so I don't dump antifreeze on the floor.
So basically all the water is predrained minus the pesky little cooler plugs on the intake water line and some of the other hard to reach areas(the four plugs I pull remove a bulk of the water that will dilute antifreeze), but since Im running antifreeze the water gets flushed out. As a bonus since Im recirculating antifreeze in a loop I can run until the thermostat opens to make sure ALL water is flushed out of the block.
We use -50* antifreeze but we know that there are little bits of water like IDboating mentioned. I check burst point with a refractometer on each boat and when the mix starts creeping towards a -30* burst point we add some -100* until its back to -50* or even colder. The refractometer is the real insurance policy when doing a lot of boats with this method. If you started with -50 at home its unnecessary IF you are pre draining AND running antifreeze.
Dont forget to kick the shower pump on and open both mixing valves and run shower head into trough until it turns pink(if equipped with shower).
We mostly settle on this process as it literally requires an owner to turn on master switch and put in bilge plugs to start the next season. No trip back to the us required. The main takeaway is getting a pump and a trough in the mix, but thats because we are winterizing a LOT of boats. If a guy used this method at home he could continually recycle antifreeze and only concentrate it to a higher burst point as necessary.
Sorry for being long winded. Thats how we do it, will post pics as soon as we have one(PCM 343) in. Mostly been winting I/Os that are done marina storing for the year
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