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    Anti-Freeze Protection Levels

    The new Raptor Engines are equipped with what is commonly referred to as a "half closed cooling system". This means that the engine block (including the heater) is cooled by anti-freeze and the exhaust manifolds are cooled by raw water. The anti-freeze that we use is propylene glycol based anti-freeze. Following is a service article that I wrote regarding anti-freeze protection levels. To test the concentration of the anti-freeze in your Raptor engine you will need a tool called a refractometer. The "floating ball" type testers are not recommended. Refractometers are a bit more expensive but they will measure ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and battery acid concentrations and on top of that are a lot cooler than floating ball testers. Here is a good excuse for you "tool junkies" out there to buy something to impress your friends with!

    A normal 50:50 mix of propylene glycol provides a protection level that will allow an engine to operate at -26°F (-32°C). That means that no ice crystals will form in the coolant till the temperature drops below -26°F (-32°C). This is referred to as the freezing point of the anti-freeze.

    At any ratio of 35:65 (35%) or higher, propylene glycol provides additional protection to lower than -50°F (-46°C). This protection level is referred to as the burst point. The burst point is the point where the crystals in the coolant are able to expand and cause damage to the cooling system. In other words, it is OK for the coolant in the cooling system of an engine to turn to slush as long as the engine is just being stored and will not be expected to operate till the weather gets warmer.

    Since it is pretty unrealistic to think that a customer will actually be using their boat at -26°F, the bursting point becomes the more important value to pay attention to. Following is a chart showing the anti-freeze ratio and the corresponding freezing point and burst point.

    Ratio Freezing Point Bursting Point
    50/50 (50%) -26°F (-32°C) -50°F (-46°C)
    40/60 (40%) -5°F (-20°C) -50°F (-46°C)
    30/70 (30%) +10°F (-12°C) -20°F (-29°C)
    20/80 (20%) +20°F (-6°C) +10°F (-12°C)

    A 40/60 (40%) ratio provides adequate burst protection for most of us. The 50/50 (50%) mix historically has been the recommended concentration because of the convenience being able to determine how much anti-freeze and water you need to use for a given system.

    Larry Engelbert (Engine Nut)
    Indmar Marine Engines

    #2
    Originally posted by EngineNut View Post
    The new Raptor Engines are equipped with what is commonly referred to as a "half closed cooling system". This means that the engine block (including the heater) is cooled by anti-freeze and the exhaust manifolds are cooled by raw water. The anti-freeze that we use is propylene glycol based anti-freeze. Following is a service article that I wrote regarding anti-freeze protection levels. To test the concentration of the anti-freeze in your Raptor engine you will need a tool called a refractometer. The "floating ball" type testers are not recommended. Refractometers are a bit more expensive but they will measure ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and battery acid concentrations and on top of that are a lot cooler than floating ball testers. Here is a good excuse for you "tool junkies" out there to buy something to impress your friends with!

    A normal 50:50 mix of propylene glycol provides a protection level that will allow an engine to operate at -26°F (-32°C). That means that no ice crystals will form in the coolant till the temperature drops below -26°F (-32°C). This is referred to as the freezing point of the anti-freeze.

    At any ratio of 35:65 (35%) or higher, propylene glycol provides additional protection to lower than -50°F (-46°C). This protection level is referred to as the burst point. The burst point is the point where the crystals in the coolant are able to expand and cause damage to the cooling system. In other words, it is OK for the coolant in the cooling system of an engine to turn to slush as long as the engine is just being stored and will not be expected to operate till the weather gets warmer.

    Since it is pretty unrealistic to think that a customer will actually be using their boat at -26°F, the bursting point becomes the more important value to pay attention to. Following is a chart showing the anti-freeze ratio and the corresponding freezing point and burst point.

    Ratio Freezing PointBursting Point
    50/50 (50%)-26°F (-32°C)-50°F (-46°C)
    40/60 (40%)-5°F (-20°C)-50°F (-46°C)
    30/70 (30%)+10°F (-12°C)-20°F (-29°C)
    20/80 (20%)+20°F (-6°C)+10°F (-12°C)

    A 40/60 (40%) ratio provides adequate burst protection for most of us. The 50/50 (50%) mix historically has been the recommended concentration because of the convenience being able to determine how much anti-freeze and water you need to use for a given system.

    Larry Engelbert (Engine Nut)
    Indmar Marine Engines
    My question is how do you drain the closed cooling system? I'd like to put a fresh mix in my 2016 440

    Sent from my E6910 using Tapatalk

    Comment


      #3
      Pop the hose off the block that runs to the heat exchanger. Stbd side towards the front of the engine, just above the oil pan.

      I posted in another post about bleeding/filling procedure

      Comment


        #4
        virtual phone

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        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
          Pop the hose off the block that runs to the heat exchanger. Stbd side towards the front of the engine, just above the oil pan.

          I posted in another post about bleeding/filling procedure
          We may do this process soon for the buddy's new Tige project. Still waiting for the truck to return from tire mounting and balancing before we can fetch the boat. Gonna check out your posted procedure.

          Comment


            #6
            You need to add Freon to your air conditioner. Sometimes even a new air conditioner does not add enough of this fluid. But if there is enough Freon, there may be something wrong with the parts. There are times when the motor overheats and gets in the way of cooling the car. There could be a million reasons. It's best to go to a car service and have the vehicle inspected. A friend of mine had a similar problem both in his car and at home. But the thing is, he didn't have any new air conditioners. He only needed them dry cleaned, and everything https://www.airconservicingsingapore.com/ worked just fine after that.

            Comment

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