Winterizing/Maintenance 24V with Marine Power 5.7 MPI 340HP

[CDAWaves]

I finished basic maintenance and winterizing this weekend and thought I would share what I did and learned. This was my first time winterizing and learned a lot. Shoot me a message if you have any questions or if I need to edit anything on this post.

Subject Boat: 2005 Tige 24V, 5.7 Marine Power 340 HP
Winterization Process – Overall difficulty is fairly easy with the right tools. Timeframe for first timers 1 day, thereafter 4-5 hours.

Tool List:
-Wrench set Imperial standard sizes up to ¾”
-Socket set also imperial with spark plug socket
-Oil filter remover (large universal band style or specific cup size remover) Good to have the band style because you can use it to remove the fuel filter housing
-screwdrivers
-Oil Pan for old oil
-small catch pan for fuel filter (you will get a surprising amount of fuel out of it so be prepared with rags too)
-a place to put dirty gas from gas filter housing
-Oil extractor/pump
-Grease gun with marine grease
-Fake a lake or equivalent to run engine off of a hose
-Plastic bags for clean oil filter removal. I also use bags to catch water drained from engine so there is less water in the bilge.
-rags
-paper towels
-thread sealer

Good to have 1 helper

Fill gas tank and add Stabil Marine or equivalent 1oz for 5 gallons (more not harmful)

Change Fluids:
-Warm up engine to operating temp
-Change Engine oil-5 quarts; (Dino 15w40 Penzoil Marine Rotella T / Synthetic 15w50 Mobil 1 per Marine Power)
Oil Change notes: On my engine there was a black hose attached to the bottom of the oil pan and stubbed up the port side of the engine. My first intention was to feed the hose thru the hull drain plug but it would not reach or fit so I just attached my oil extractor to the end of the black hose and pumped it out. Oil does not flow out of this hose by gravity you need to pump it out.
-Change oil filter (NAPA: Gold 1069)
Oil filter change notes: There is a raw water hose that runs under the filter making access difficult. I unbolted the transmission oil cooler that is attached to the cold water hose from the engine (it is held by single bolt to a metal bracket attached to the engine block) and this allowed the hose to drop low enough to access the oil filter.
-Change fuel filter/water separator (Marine Power G-Force Filter #396007)
Fuel Filter change notes: Access makes this job more difficult so you can consider removing the entire thing so you can work on a bench. I did not need to remove the entire thing. Remove the bolt located on the bottom of the filter housing in the middle. You do not need to remove the hoses that are attached to the bottom. Once the bolt is removed the bottom plate will drop down and will dangle with the hoses attached. Get a catch pan ready and put some rags under the filter to catch spilled gas (you will likely spill some). Put band style oil filter wrench on the bottom of the fuel filter canister housing and loosen it just like an oil filter. I have heard that this can be very tight and difficult to remove. Mine came off fairly easily. As you unscrew the canister gas will start to leak out. The more you unscrew the more gas. You can expect about a cup of gas to come out. Once it is off carefully remove from under the engine without tipping because the housing is still full of gas. Take the filter out of the boat and pour out the existing gas. Put the filter housing between your feet and pull straight up. The filter will pop out with a good quick tug. Clean both sides of the housing. Put in new filter (it will click in place). Coat the o-ring that came with the filter with dielectric grease or Vaseline to lubricate it. Also put a very light coat of clean oil on the threads of the canister. Doing this will make removal of the fuel filter easier next time. Put the lubed o-ring on the canister. Fill the canister 1/3 full with winterized gas and then twist it on and tigheten (not too tight) Push the bottom plate into place and replace and tighten the center bottom bolt. You are now done with what I think was the hardest part of the winterization. http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...Z1-Fuel-Filter
-Start engine and recheck oil level and check for oil and gas leaks.
-Change oil on V-Drive- 1 Quart SAE30 Heavy Duty NON-Detergent
Vdrive oil change notes: I had to remove my back seat in order to remove the dipstick. In hind-site I would recommend removing the rear seat anyway as it give so much more access to the vdrive and it was an opportunity to clean under the seats in this area. Check the oil level on the dip stick and note where it is. Stick the oil drain tube down the dipstick hole and pump out. Use small funnel to put oil back in thru the dip stick hole or breather hole. I was able to pump out just shy of 1 quart and replaced with the same amount. You can also drain the oil from a plug on the vdrive unit. I opted to evacuate the oil rather than pull the plug.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...on-and-V-Drive
-Change Oil on Velvet Drive Tranny- 2 quarts DexronIII/Mercon or SAE 30. Mine had Dexron fluid (red color)
Tranny oil change notes: Check and note the fluid level on the dipstick. Remove dipstick and pump out fluid and replace with new fluid. I was able to remove about 1.5 quarts and replaced with the same amount.

Freeze Protection:
-Pull boat hull plug
-Drain sea strainer and clean screen (not applicable on my boat)
-Drain manifolds (remove 2 blue plastic plugs, one on either side) at the bottom of the exhaust manifold
-Drain engine block as follows:
- On starboard side remove knock sensor wire then remove plug/knock sensor. This plug/sensor is located toward the bottom of the engine block (above the oil pan but below the sparkplugs about in the center of the engine front to back (some have knock sensors on both sides). Expect a couple of quarts of water to drain out.
-remove plug on port side of engine in the same general location. This was a brass plug on my engine but you may have another knock sensor here.
-Drain trans cooler - The tranny cooler is a simple in-line cooler that is located on the cold water supply to the engine. It has hoses that run from it to the tranny. I found it easier to remove the hose from the water out of the vdrive and pushed it down the the bottom of the bilge. This allowed the water to drain out of the hose and cooler. This seemed to drain both the vdrive and tranny cooler. This was a bit confusing to me at first but once you figure out where the tranny cooler is located it will make sense.
-Drain V-drive by removing water plug(s) marked water drain or pull hose as described above for draining the transmission cooler. I did not pull the plug, I just pulled of the water hose off the outtake side of the vdrive.
-Re-insert all removed plugs so they are not forgotten or lost after about 30 minutes or when stopped dripping. I used standard thread sealer on the block plugs but probably not necessary.
Re-install all pulled hoses
-Optional: run antifreeze thru engine (about 3-5 gallons RV antifreeze) for corrosion protection and/or piece of mind. I did not do this.
General:
Clean flame arrestor – Used carb cleaner and a tooth brush to clean and blew compressed air from inside out to remove debris and dry.
Remove batteries and keep charged
Grease rudder (Zirk) (marine grease)
Lube steering cable (turn wheel so the cable is all the way out and spray WD40 what is visible under the engine)
Clean boat inside and out including wiping out the bilge of remaining water/oil.
Loosely cover boat if dry storage.

Part List:
-Reference Parts (GM 5.7L 340 HP Marine Power SN: 42160) reference 95 chevy 1500 2WD w/5.7Ltr V-8.
-Oil: 5 quarts 15w40 regular Penzoil Marine Rotella T or 15w50 Synthetic (Mobil 1)
-Oil Filter:
NAPA: Gold 1069
AC: PF25
Purolator: L20049
-Stabil Marine or equivalent fuel stabilizer
-Fuel Filter/Separator:
Marine Power G-Force Filter #396007 or RACOR #R58011-10
(Marine Parts Source.com http://www.marinepartssource.com/index.asp
G Force Fuel Pump Filter by MARINE POWER = $41.98
Part #: 83539 / MARINE POWER #: 396007
FILTER DFCM 10-MICRON by RACOR = $27.31
Part #: 152684 / RACOR #: R58011-10

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11758 - How to install
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/gforce...ter-p-384.html - Good Picture and Site

Tranny: Velvet Drive 71C (SN: 10/1 7004)
Oil: Dexron III ATF or SAE 30W
Capacity: 2 Quarts
Vdrive Walter http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...on-and-V-Drive
Oil: SAE 30W heavy duty, Non- detergent
Capacity: 1 quart

Optional Parts:

Water Impeller:
Raw Water Pump Impeller - Stock No 527246 (Per Tige Dealer)
(Marine Parts Source.com http://www.marinepartssource.com/index.asp)
IMPELLER;PUMP F6B by MARINE POWER = $37.95
Part #: 63765 / MARINE POWER #: 527246
12 Blade Johnson Pump Impeller Kit by JOHNSON PUMP = $28.93
Part #: 73192 / JOHNSON PUMP #: 09-812B-1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpBoVRAAZhI - How to install Video

Spark plugs:
AC 41-932 (this is what was already in my engine)
Gap .060
Possible alternatives:
-AC Delco 41-993
-AC Delco MR43LTS

[Stingreye]

Lots of good info!

[IDBoating]

Good notes. A couple of extra thoughts:

1) While all of the water drain plugs are out, I use my shop vac on the drain holes. You can suck a surprising amount of additional water out this way. Suck out the hoses that you remove, too (such as the hose on the transmission intercooler). It's easy and there's no reason to leave water anywhere.

2) Have a narrow tool (like a 1/4 inch socket extension, piece of wire coat hanger, etc.) ready and as soon as you remove the engine block drain plugs, run the tool into the hole and ream it around a bit while the water is draining. I find a wee bit of rust in there every season and doing it this way lets the water flush it out for you.

3) You didn't say it (or I didn't see it), but you should remove the raw water impeller and engine belt and store them dry, cool, and loose so they don't "take a set" during months of storage.

4) Some skip this step, but it's a good idea to fog your engine through the spark plug holes and hand-turn the engine a couple of turns to coat the internals for storage. This also gives you a convenient opportunity to inspect and regap your plugs (they can tell you a lot about what's going on in your engine).

5) If you have a ballast system, use the shop vac to suck/blow out the pumps and hoses. If you have impeller pump(s), remove and store the impeller(s) just like the engine impeller, above (this is especially important because impeller pumps can trap water, which can then freeze).

Great writeup! "Take good care of your equipment and it will take good care of you."

[Matt Garcia]

Good info and great writeup. I may move this to the "How to" section since I have a few other winterizing "How tos" in there.

[CDAWaves]

WA boating, How did you hand crank the engine. I removed the spark plugs and sprayed the cylinders but I could not find a place to be able to hand turn the engine. Do you just grab the belt. There is no exposed fly wheel to put a wrench on.

Thanks for the comments on the post and hope it helps someone.

[IDBoating]

WA boating, How did you hand crank the engine. I removed the spark plugs and sprayed the cylinders but I could not find a place to be able to hand turn the engine. Do you just grab the belt. There is no exposed fly wheel to put a wrench on.

I just put a 15mm socket and a 1/2 inch ratchet handle on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned it around a few times. Quite easy with the plugs out. I do it after the belt is off so I'm not also trying to turn everything else (though the accessories don't add a lot of load when the engine is off).

You must have a crankshaft pulley, yes? Doesn't it have a bolt in the center of the pulley? I have seen a few engines where the raw water pump is connected directly to the front of the crankshaft pulley... is that what you have?

[CDAWaves]

Yes it has the water pump pully on the pully has 4 bolts rather than one in the center to rotate the engine. I will have to give it a try next time and see if it will work. As you said, with the plugs out there no compression so it should be easier. I like check the plugs and spray the cylinders one at a time so I have no risk of mixing up the plug wire location but I can get around this by labeling the wires.

[IDBoating]

It might be possible to "grab the belt" as you said if the plugs are removed. Otherwise I don't know how that type of raw water impeller is attached but I'd look around for some way to spin the crankshaft. Perhaps a strap wrench could go around the crankshaft pulley itself?

[Dave S]

Could you just pull the coil wire and hit the starter (using key) for a second or two to turn engine over?

[IDBoating]

That would power up the electrical system, which risks injecting fresh fuel into the cylinders. You could also disconnect the CPS, etc. in an attempt to disable the injectors but at some point it's just easier to keep the electrical system out of the equation and turn it by hand.

[chpthril]

Wasnt it boatwakes that suggested filling the fuel/water filter with 2 stroke and firing it up for a minute? This oils the cylinders and not the intake, without pulling and re-installing plugs. IIRC, this was the recommended method by one of the marinizers.

[Dave S]

Thanks WA! Your posts alone have helped me over the years (along with many others)! I will pull plugs and spray in holes and rotate engine by hand. Just curious though, what damage would be caused by my above mentioned suggestion, and your reply with fuel being injected? A friend of mine has done it this way for 10 years or more on his boat and never had any trouble, not that I'm doubting you, if this is what is recommended for our boats, I will do it that way.

[chpthril]

If the fuel rail is primed and the injectors pulse, the fuel will wash the oil of the cylinders, which defeats the oiling procedure.

[Dave S]

ok, thanks. My buddy's boat is carbureted, maybe that is why he can do it, no priming of injectors?

[chpthril]

ok, thanks. My buddy's boat is carbureted, maybe that is why he can do it, no priming of injectors?

yes, exactly