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Routine Maintenance (Steering Cable and Impeller) & Troubleshooting Perfect Pass

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    Routine Maintenance (Steering Cable and Impeller) & Troubleshooting Perfect Pass

    I have a 2004 22V with the Mercruiser 350 and am looking to start doing some of the maintenance myself. I'm going to get the boat back in the next couple weeks and plan to take out the back seat and floor to replace the steering cable and impeller and do any other maintenance the boat needs.

    A little background on the boat...I had it winterized and the oil changed last fall before putting it a way for the winter. Additionally, last spring I had the v-drive and transmission fluid changed. I may have had the impeller changed, but I can't recall and need to go through my files and find the service receipt. I have a few questions:

    1. I haven't removed the back seat or floor before and couldn't locate any detailed instructions. My understanding is there are a few screws at the base of the back seat to remove and then the floor. Can anyone provide any more detail/advice?

    2. I've seen suggestions in various places, but have been unable to find a comprehensive list as to when to do certain maintenance. What do you guys use as intervals or barometers as to when to do particular maintenance items:

    a. replace impeller
    b. change oil and oil filter
    c. change v drive and transmission fluid
    e. what other items am I missing and how often should they be done or what would indicate they need to be replaced?

    3. Steering Cable - To confirm, SSC15418 is the correct part? The least expensive place I found it online was here. Please let me know if you guys know of any cheaper places to get it.

    4. Impeller - I found a guide on tigeowners, however, I do not know what parts I need. Do I need just the impeller or should I get a kit? Does anyone know exactly what the part number is for what I should get? I lost the owners manual for the engine.

    5. Perfect Pass has never really worked and I've tried to get it fixed and troubleshoot it previously, but I want to try and get it fixed while I have the boat torn apart. I had a thread going about this issue that I revived, if any of you have any insight to share regarding that.

    Sorry if any of these questions have been answered in other threads, I utilized the search function, but still had some remaining questions.

    #2
    If you PM me your email address I have a list that I got from another member that has some information that may help you.

    Comment


      #3
      Don't know if this is similar to your boat but this shows how to remove the back seat - http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...on-and-V-Drive

      Comment


        #4
        Here is a place that is slightly cheaper for your steering cable - http://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/s...5418&search=GO

        Maybe even get your impeller there as well.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
          If you PM me your email address I have a list that I got from another member that has some information that may help you.
          PM sent, thanks!
          Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
          Don't know if this is similar to your boat but this shows how to remove the back seat - http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...on-and-V-Drive
          That looks a little different, but I bet it's similar for the most part and should help.
          Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
          Here is a place that is slightly cheaper for your steering cable - http://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/s...5418&search=GO

          Maybe even get your impeller there as well.
          Good find, the cable and shipping are cheaper there. Do you happen to know what part or kit I would need for the impeller or where/how I could find out?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by wakeborder5 View Post
            1. I haven't removed the back seat or floor before and couldn't locate any detailed instructions. My understanding is there are a few screws at the base of the back seat to remove and then the floor. Can anyone provide any more detail/advice?


            3. Steering Cable - To confirm, SSC15418 is the correct part? The least expensive place I found it online was here. Please let me know if you guys know of any cheaper places to get it.


            Sorry if any of these questions have been answered in other threads, I utilized the search function, but still had some remaining questions.
            1) Going off memory and not sure if this is the exact way but for my 2004 24V:
            - Remove back cushion first by removing 4 wingnuts (two are hidden pretty high on the very top under the lip accessed from the engine side, 2 of them are then very close to the side locker supports). Remove rear seat back cushion.
            - You should now have access to keep the bolts from spinning with a phillips head screw driver. Maybe four bolts? They are easy to see from the engine compartment.
            - On that bottom strip, someone had screwed the screws thru the strip so that it could be left attached to the rear seat, only two screws go all the way through. If you see 5 screws, that means you just need to undo two of them. If you see 3, remove three and you should have access to two more (I think).
            - Should come out now.

            2) Print out the sticky thread for the steering cable. Its really helpful! I cut the end of my 12 point wrench with a dremel to slip over the cable and turn the nut (and cut it to be only a few inches long). I tested it on the new cable to know it would fit over cable and around nut. On my boat, the engine block and the coolant hose were in the way and meant I was working blind and could barely fit my hand down there. A mirror helps to see what you are doing. The 12 point made it easier to turn. The open end I needed to make the turn completely if I was a little short, I could not get it back on the nut for the next turn. 12 point made it much easier.

            Good luck!wrench pic 2.jpg
            Last edited by Stingreye; 04-10-2013, 09:04 PM. Reason: grrrr.... I had a not where it didn't belong.
            Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter

            Comment


              #7
              Wakeboarder5 I sent you an email. Hope it helps.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by wakeborder5 View Post
                4. Impeller - I found a guide on tigeowners, however, I do not know what parts I need. Do I need just the impeller or should I get a kit? Does anyone know exactly what the part number is for what I should get? I lost the owners manual for the engine.
                Could anyone help me figure out whether I need a new impeller or an impeller kit and where I can find either? Additionally, is an impeller puller strongly recommended? If so, how does this puller look?

                Thanks for all the help!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I just pulled mine out last weekend and used the screwdriver method but did not have to apply much pressure, I would give it a try but be careful not to damage your impeller housing. Secondly I belive the only difference between the impeller and kit is the kit comes with lube and a new O-ring and is usually only a couple of dollars more. My local dealer was 99% sure of the part number so I pulled it and took the number off the impeller to be sure, mine was in pretty good shape but for $25 it isn't worth putting back in. Tutorial on the site is great and much appreciated once you get comfortable in the rear locker the job isn't that bad and only really takes a few minutes

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Can someone tell my how I go about lubing the steering cable??? The previous owner replaced it already with the new one. I just want to know what kind of grease to use...I can figure out where to lube it once I get the boat all pulled apart.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The steering cable should not be lubricated, it is sealed and comes from the factory pre-greased and attempting to add more can damage the cable and make it wear out faster. The cables only cost 180ish and should be replaced 5-8 years depending on use and climate, you will know when it's time to replace it. One other technique for the longevity of the steering cable is to keep the steering wheel full left so the majority of the steering cable is tucked into the sleeve near the rudder mount. There is a zerk fitting on the rudder housing to lubricate the rudder bearings and it might be very difficult to reach depending on the boat model, that's the only part in the steering system that is serviceable and should be checked every year.
                      2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
                      2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Stingreye View Post
                        1) Going off memory and not sure if this is the exact way but for my 2004 24V:
                        - Remove back cushion first by removing 4 wingnuts (two are hidden pretty high on the very top under the lip accessed from the engine side, 2 of them are then very close to the side locker supports). Remove rear seat back cushion.
                        - You should now have access to keep the bolts from spinning with a phillips head screw driver. Maybe four bolts? They are easy to see from the engine compartment.
                        - On that bottom strip, someone had screwed the screws thru the strip so that it could be left attached to the rear seat, only two screws go all the way through. If you see 5 screws, that means you just need to undo two of them. If you see 3, remove three and you should have access to two more (I think).
                        - Should come out now.

                        2) Print out the sticky thread for the steering cable. Its really helpful! I cut the end of my 12 point wrench with a dremel to slip over the cable and turn the nut (and cut it to be only a few inches long). I tested it on the new cable to know it would fit over cable and around nut. On my boat, the engine block and the coolant hose were in the way and meant I was working blind and could barely fit my hand down there. A mirror helps to see what you are doing. The 12 point made it easier to turn. The open end I needed to make the turn completely if I was a little short, I could not get it back on the nut for the next turn. 12 point made it much easier.

                        Good luck![ATTACH]33886[/ATTACH]

                        I LOVE this cut 12 point! Great idea!

                        Comment

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