Originally posted by JUST-IN-TIME
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Answer straight from PCM regarding fogging of engines...
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
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Fogging 4 Stroke Engines
Originally posted by WABoating View PostMercury gave me that recipe for what they call "witch's brew" many years ago, but I believed it was only for 2-stroke engines (whose injectors expect to have oil passing through them). Are you saying this is cleared for use in 4-strokes where the injectors are designed to pass only gasoline?Ray Thompson
2005 22V
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My boat sits for about 4-5months through the winter months. It is cover and out of the weather. I do fog my engine w/ fog oil every year using the small opening under the spark arrestor. With that said I also run marine stabil (double recommended) in the gas and when I take the boat out the 1st time next year I use 1 can of seafoam. After I run most of that tank of gas out I change my water/fuel seperator.
I haven't had any issues yet, are you guys saying I will it just a matter of time? At this point it would be just as easy to pull the spark plugs and put the oil in the cylinders, turn engine over by hand and this way not bother w/ the fog oil at all? The injector would be out of the loop at this point correct.Last edited by TRD; 11-17-2010, 01:46 PM.Dale
2000 21i Tige
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
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- TN USA
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Originally posted by raythompson View PostI believe when fogging 4 stroke engines the mixture is sprayed, or squirted, into the manifold for ingestion in the cylinders. The mixture never passes through the injectors so the injectors will still pass only gasoline.
On the Mercury 2-strokes, you mix up the "witch's brew" in a separate fuel tank and run the engine on it for a while, so it gets everywhere in the fuel system including the injectors.
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
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- TN USA
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Originally posted by TRD View PostAt this point it would be just as easy to pull the spark plugs and put the oil in the cylinders, turn engine over by hand and this way not bother w/ the fog oil at all?
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yes mixture
fogging oil is a thick sticking oil
if you spray it into any efi motor, the map, baro might get clogged up
as for an o2 sensor after the cats and before the oil will burn off only if you put through the intake
if you put it in the cylinders and start it up, thats oil is going to hurt the o2 sensor until you burn it offHUMAN BUILT = HUMAN FIXED
switchbait.com
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
Originally posted by JUST-IN-TIME View Postfogging oil is a thick sticking oil... if you spray it into any efi motor, the map, baro might get clogged up... as for an o2 sensor after the cats and before the oil will burn off only if you put through the intake... if you put it in the cylinders and start it up, thats oil is going to hurt the o2 sensor until you burn it off
The PCM guy who said to use fogging oil said "follow the instructions in the manual", which explicitly says to use fogging oil on their EFI engines. One local PCM dealer does fog EFI engines, while the other does not. Some on this website, including now you {grin}, say not to do it while others encourage it.
It's exceedingly hard for us out here to know the right thing to do. For this winterization, I got more votes for fogging oil than against (including more PCM votes for than against). So I did everything else to my engine and then shot fogging oil into the spark plug holes and manually rotated the crankshaft a couple of turns (which was exceedingly hard to turn, even with the plugs out - had to use a socket wrench on the crankshaft pulley). Sounds like my O2 sensor may be a little unhappy at first next Spring.
What do YOU recommend - just leaving the cylinders bare? I can do that but it doesn't sound too safe.
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a 4 stroke motor alsways have oil in the cylinders
a 2 stroke does not, it gets it oil from fuel
we run the cocktail mix from mercury on all EFI motors
never had a problem
if you do fogg you need to keep spraying it until the motor dies and keep spraying 10 seconds after thatHUMAN BUILT = HUMAN FIXED
switchbait.com
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above the rings is very very minimal space, its like nothing, the piton always comes to the top of the cylinder, so the cylinder is fine, its the combustion chamber is what your worried about, which is not a big deal
but moisture on the cylinder walls is bad, rust will form in under an hr
your taking this way too far, and reading way too much
i would listen to mercury more than any other company, they been around longer than the rest and the only ones that build race motorsHUMAN BUILT = HUMAN FIXED
switchbait.com
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Tigé Jedi
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Originally posted by JUST-IN-TIME View Postabove the rings is very very minimal space, its like nothing, the piton always comes to the top of the cylinder
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
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Originally posted by JUST-IN-TIME View Postyour taking it way way too far, its cool thou
2 things ruin your motor quicker then anything
warming it up while not under a load
and revving motor over 1500 rpm with it out of water in neutral
Trying to get smarter here, thanks for being patient with me.
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