18' is what you need.
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How to change a steering cable.
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Awesome thread! I changed the cable on my '07 RZ2 last weekend but ran into some issues like Matt did on his RZ2. The cable was not able to make the turn through the factory hole due to the gas tank being in the way. I wound up using a hole for heater hoses on the other side of the helm wall next to the fresh air vent. I then drilled a new hole at the top of the helm wall to run the cable through to the other side. Was very frustrated for about an hour until I called the local dealer and they told me what to do. After, 30 minutes and I was done.
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Originally posted by travis5550 View PostI have an '08 20V and I got the SSC15418 (18' long) from Teleflex. It is the "upgraded" version that should last longer. Also, go back a page or 2 to find my post about how I re-ran the cable by moving the gas tank (rather than cutting any new holes in the boat). Good luck!
Jim
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Hi guys, I have a 2007 24ve and the boat came with a Teleflex model SSC13421 cable that is now stiff and needs to be replaced but it's only $20 more to get the newer Extreme model SSC15421 cable that everyone here is recommending so anyways Amazon has fast & free 2-day prime shipping so I'm all over that... plus they have the Rule-Mate 500 Automatic Bilge Pump and mine clogged up/died so that's getting replaced too (I guess Amazon sells everything these days). Anyways, I've been reading about the whole process of replacing the steering cable and it being better to route it up over the gas tank but I can't seem to find how to remove the floor boards... I can see the cutouts but not where to release the panels. Looks like in other models of Tige boats the center rear seat removes but I'm not seeing that on mine or am I just completely blind. Any idea?
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brian,
There is only 1 section of floor that comes out on your model.
5-6 screws to remove the carpet covered trim piece along the seat box base
behind it are 3 screws, remove them
from the v-drive locker, there is a phillips head bolt with a nylock nut that secures the seat-box to the seatbase. One in each locker but you have to reach up under the seats to get to them. Once removed, the seatbox with lift out.
Then the floor panel lifts up at the aft and lifts out.
Takes about 5 minutes once you figure it out.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Thanks chpthril,
Those crafty Tige manufacturers managed to hide those trim screws in the carpet fairly well until I felt them out.
Originally posted by chpthril View Postbrian,
There is only 1 section of floor that comes out on your model.
5-6 screws to remove the carpet covered trim piece along the seat box base
behind it are 3 screws, remove them
from the v-drive locker, there is a phillips head bolt with a nylock nut that secures the seat-box to the seatbase. One in each locker but you have to reach up under the seats to get to them. Once removed, the seatbox with lift out.
Then the floor panel lifts up at the aft and lifts out.
Takes about 5 minutes once you figure it out.
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Up here in Canada (Toronto area) I had difficulty getting the Teleflex (TFXTREME) SSC15418 for my 2007 Tige 20V - at least a month delivery. So, I bought the SSC13418 (original in the Tige 20V). My son-in-law and I installed it last Saturday. Took us about 4 hours. Next time it'll only take 2hours. The posts and pics on this thread really were a huge help.
A few observations/suggestions especially for V drives ...
- remove the floor panel as described above CUT the old cable in half at the gas tank. (waisted 90 mins trying to pull it out past the back port side corner of the gas tank.)
- then we used a wire fish through the hole in the floor at the helm, then back 2 feet and up over the top of the gas tank (roughly at the center)
- fasten the new cable to the fish and pull it through from the helm up over the top gas tank.
- un-fasten the fish, run the cable over the top of the gas tank & push it through to the transom. (don't try to follow the original path at aft port corner of the tank, it's too tight)
- next we removed and cleaned the cable sleeve and re-greesed with marine greese.
- re-assembled new cable into sleeve, re-fastened large 1 1/8" nut and attached cable to rudder extension arm.
- we centered the rudder, centered the steering wheel and fastened the steering rack to the helm.
- steering is now smooth, 1 finger easy...feels like a brand new boat!
- thanks to my son-in-law Ryan!!! made the job much easier.
Special Thanks for all the posts guys! Would not have attempted this cable replacement without all your great information .
Jim
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Originally posted by lee View PostLook at post #1 picture number 5.
However no way the large 1 1/8" nut was squeezing through. After cutting it was out in 2 mins.
Thanks again for all the posts. Great help! Now she steers like budda!!!
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