DIY Grab Bar Install (06 24Ve')

[da.bell]

Items:

Grab Bar $35 appx (http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...=grabstainless Did not use the three hole bar)
Nylon Washer (2): $.08
Rubber Washer (2): $.06
Stainless Steel Washer 2 inch diameter (2): $.14
Stainless Steel Bolts (2): $.16

[da.bell]

Picture of items.

[da.bell]

More Pictures. The tape measure is wher the boat's fiberglass will be after installation in the left hand picture below.

[da.bell]

Tools:

Dremel Drill: Sand paper attachment and drill attachment along with guide.
Level (one small and one large)
Drill and Drill bit to fit the size of the screws on the bar.
Plumbers Putty (Could probably use Chalking or Silicone)
Not pictured (thread/string)
Whiteboard fine tip marker (Didn't use a Sharpie because I didn't want to leave marks on the boat since it is permanent)
Hole Saw (not pictured but here is a reference: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...32A&lpage=none)
Wet Dry Vac (not pictured and to vacuum up all the white plastic)
Flash Light (getting into some of these areas were a little dark. All the light that you have or can get will only help out.)

[da.bell]

Pre install pictures

[da.bell]

Didn't take the pictures with the string as guidelines that were attached to the trailer ties on the boat before I cut but the picture is a post cut one. I hope everyone is following still?????


Used the string to guide the holes and where I should mount the bar. The problem I did find was that the Tige sticker is too far right by one inch so DO NOT use it as a reference to mount the bar. The other issue that I had was the boat was not level so you will need to adjust for that also.

[da.bell]

Forgot to add picture. The marker was used to mark where I was to cut. You can measure the thread and mark the thread so you know where the horizontal cut would be. The vertical cut position would be the height above the string that you would like. A that position is where you will need to mark the boat. Do the marks for both holes and put the bar up like it would be installed and have someone visually see if the bar looks straight. Make sure you tell the person that is visually inspecting that the Tige sticker is NOT centered. Notice picture on the right has two holes. First cut was a half inch too low. But, the washer covered up the hole where it isn't visible.

[da.bell]

The cut into the boat. Used some sandpaper to smooth out the openings of the drill holes.

[da.bell]

Where the hole wound up being on the starboard side of the boat. Note the metal paper clip inserted into it. Now, you will need to be careful since there are wires that have been attached to the white plastic piece.

[da.bell]

used the hole saw to get a circle patterned going and an outline. The hole was the size of the 2 inch stainless steel washers. Did two cuts with the hole saw. One on the port side and the other on the starboard side. Used the Dremel drill with the sand paper attachment to dig out the plastic.

Note: the screws on the bar where only 2 inches thick. This white plastic piece gave me some trouble because I had to drill it out so I can attach the bar. When you put the bar into the hole, I put the nylon washer on first, then the rubber washer, and then some plumbers putty to seal up the hole.

[dogbert]

Good description!

[da.bell]

Final product. When tightening the bolts, you do not need to tighten too hard. Some of the rubber washer will stick out because it is being squished. I trimmed the washer back so you can't notice it. The washer I used was 1/8 inch thick and I might have to remove the bar to put a 1/4 inch thick washer. Not sure yet since I have not had time to observe but will monitor the washer and report here if I do change it out. There will be some movement in the bar but very slight. This movement is because of the rubber washer.

[da.bell]

Good description!

Thank you. This thread is a work in progress still but I hope that it helps out...

[da.bell]

What I learned from this project.

1) Make sure you have the right size bolts for the project. The first bar I had was ruined since the bolts where too small. I had to purchase a new bar.

2) Measure ONE MILLION times and cut once. Now, there was a second cut needed but I was only off 1/2 inch and was able to adjust since I knew I could still hide the hole with the rubber washer.

3) A smaller bar might have worked out but I got the 36 inch bar. When doing the measurements, measure the posts of the bar because they are NOT 36 inches apart. My bar turned out to be a quarter inch further apart. Again see #2 above.

4) If you mess up, make sure you have some spare screws and bolts to cover your temporary problem. We took the boat out between me stripping the old bars screws and before getting the new bar. Since I already made the cuts, there were holes and I didn't want water to get into the bilge. So, for a temporary solution, I went to Lowes to get a screw and bolt. Used the same washers that I used for the install so I would have a sealed hole and was able to use the boat that weekend.

5) Use the level to make sure that the bar is level with everything around. Compensate for the surface the boat is on if needed.

6) I have a 24Ve so this entire project was specific to my boat. Yours might be different but the concepts are the same.

7) I didn't do any beer drinking during this install. But, it turned out better than expected.

8) Plan on become a contortionist. I know why the dealership charges so much when they do work on the engine. I am still trying to figure out how in the hell they get to some of the stuff.

[da.bell]

So, I am sure I forgot a lot or didn't explain some but please provide some feedback.

I knew I forgot a few things. Thanks to Chpthril and Dom for some of the immediate questions that I had regarding size of washers and things like that. It did help out tremendously. Again, thanks guys!!!!!!