Adding a 2nd Deep-Cycle Battery

[Waterski-Rebel]

Wow, 2/0 must be huge (close to 2")??

if 2 AWG is 1/2 an inch, 1 (or 0) AWG should be 1", 2/0 must be 2".

Why would it need to be that large? It seems as if my old boat had 4 AWG, and the Tige has 2 AWG.

[dogbert]

It's not. It's standard battery cable for a car.

[chpthril]

Wow, 2/0 must be huge (close to 2")??

if 2 AWG is 1/2 an inch, 1 (or 0) AWG should be 1", 2/0 must be 2".

Why would it need to be that large? It seems as if my old boat had 4 AWG, and the Tige has 2 AWG.

My 06 has 2/0 for the battery and starter cable. The outside dia of 2/0 is like 5/8th", I use 3/4" heatshrink on it.

"AWG Wire Sizes (see table below)
AWG: In the American Wire Gauge (AWG), diameters can be calculated by applying the formula D(AWG)=.005·92((36-AWG)/39) inch. For the 00, 000, 0000 etc. gauges you use -1, -2, -3, which makes more sense mathematically than "double nought." This means that in American wire gage every 6 gauge decrease gives a doubling of the wire diameter, and every 3 gauge decrease doubles the wire cross sectional area. Similar to dB in signal and power levels"

[Waterski-Rebel]

Intersting. I always thought 20 AWG meant it took 20 wires @ 20 AWG to equal 1 inch. or 12 AWG took 12 wires to equal 1 inch.

[TRD]

Chp,

I have been studding your diagram and I was wandering about the alternator. Do you have to concider putting in a bigger one to charge both batteries? if not why?

thanks

[chpthril]

Chp,

I have been studding your diagram and I was wandering about the alternator. Do you have to consider putting in a bigger one to charge both batteries? if not why?

thanks

Probably not, but there are a few things that would need to be considered before saying yes or no:

(A) How may Amps will my system be drawing.
(B) How long, on avg, would I be playing the system with engine off.

An Alt is not really designed to recharge a dead battery, so, if your system is pulling a lot of juice, or you play all day long with the engine off and have a 5 min run back to the dock/ramp, the alt will not get it topped of so you may find the battery running low. In this case, a higher output alt would help.

Basically, I would complete your stereo and battery upgrade, and go use the boat like normal and see if the battery is having trouble recovering. At this point you could look at a new amp, or an on-board charger to plug up when the boat is back at the house after a trip.

[TRD]

Chp,
Here is what I am looking at:
I have 2 tige tower speakers w/ 70 alpine amp now, w/ cheap deck and 4 speakers. Standard battery hookup.

Looking at adding new:
alpine 9886 receiver deck
4 km620 kicker speakers for inside the boat
4 or 5 channel amp of some kind depending on if the sub is going to be used. Looking and another alpine or kicker.

question: do I need to add a 2nd battery? or is it just a good idea...

I am not sure about putting in the 12" wetsounds subwoofer yet. I really don't have the room and don't want to cut a hole under my drivers seat for it to fit. I really don't listen to the music that way to need it. I know if I do add this it will make a difference in the battery use.

As far as my use: When the wife is in the boat, radio will NEVER be turned up, unless I'm trying to get in trouble. (no need to explain more).
I like to use the stereo when at the dock and parked swimming. when parked I could use the stereo for an hour or so maybe. Is what I am looking at a good starting point?

[TRD]

Had an idea, it maybe studip don't know this is why I am asking.

Could I build a removeable sub box that would go behind the drivers seat in my boat? How would that sound? I use the area under my drivers area for storage, I don't have a lot on my boat.

Would this work, I would be able to manufacture a sub box w/ other helpful things added in it that would help me out w/ storage. I will take a picture of this area and post after the wkend.
What do you think Chptril? (you know my boat)

[chpthril]

That would work just fine. The instructions with the sub will give you the dimensions you need for the box and shape really doesn't matter.

[TRD]

I'm thinking about making a box for a seat w/ some storage. It will be removable for the winter times. The seat part won't hurt the sub will it?

[chpthril]

I'm thinking about making a box for a seat w/ some storage. It will be removable for the winter times. The seat part won't hurt the sub will it?

I dont think it would

[Buzz27]

Is the Perko dual switch powerfull enough as the original Blue sea takes approx 350A continuous 600A intermittent and 700A cranking across its contacts.
As far as I can see the Perko and Guest switches take 260/360A and 230/ 345A peak respectively.

[chpthril]

Is the Perko dual switch powerfull enough as the original Blue sea takes approx 350A continuous 600A intermittent and 700A cranking across its contacts.
As far as I can see the Perko and Guest switches take 260/360A and 230/ 345A peak respectively.

Load flows from the battery to the components: Stereo/amps, Starter, Lights, etc. The only time the battery is a "load" is during charging, and your alt will never put out that kinda current, factory Alt's are either a 60A or a 90A. Those specs are what the battery is able to flow. Even with some hi-end/hi-power custom systems, the engine's starter is still the highest amp draw at < then 200A, so you should be good to go with your battery bank. Odds are, the alt and starter will be the only loads pulling through the Perko any way, everything else will pull straight off the battery.

[Buzz27]

Load flows from the battery to the components: Stereo/amps, Starter, Lights, etc. The only time the battery is a "load" is during charging, and your alt will never put out that kinda current, factory Alt's are either a 60A or a 90A. Those specs are what the battery is able to flow. Even with some hi-end/hi-power custom systems, the engine's starter is still the highest amp draw at < then 200A, so you should be good to go with your battery bank. Odds are, the alt and starter will be the only loads pulling through the Perko any way, everything else will pull straight off the battery.

I have just had chance to look at my existing cabling on my 20V, and now see where you were coming from as yours has two feeds - one from the starter and one from the alternator.
Mine only has one battery feed which is connected via the dead switch to the Starter solenoid which in turn connects to the alternator - as I don't have the factory fitted dual battery system .
This is what I aim to fit with the help of an Isolator and a new dual battery switch/ cables!
Using your diagram I will need to make a long cable from the alternator to the isolator, two short ones from the isolator to both batteries and one from the second battery to the dual switch + a negative link from battery 1 to 2.

[chpthril]

I have just had chance to look at my existing cabling on my 20V, and now see where you were coming from as yours has two feeds - one from the starter and one from the alternator.
Mine only has one battery feed which is connected via the dead switch to the Starter solenoid which in turn connects to the alternator - as I don't have the factory fitted dual battery system .
This is what I aim to fit with the help of an Isolator and a new dual battery switch/ cables!
Using your diagram I will need to make a long cable from the alternator to the isolator, two short ones from the isolator to both batteries and one from the second battery to the dual switch + a negative link from battery 1 to 2.

Sounds like you got a handle on this upgrade, start a thread with description and pics as you go as this is a great DIY project.

I would like to make one recommendation...........take the project one step further and move your ACC loads, such as stereo, lights, etc, over to the new Deep-cycle battery. This will allow you to take full advantage of the upgrade by letting you run your stereo and other accessories as long as you want and still have a fully charged Starting battery.