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    Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
    I worried that the spring might loosen over time, but hopefully the swing type is eternal.

    Don't forget to check with Anhaney, he can get a lot of that stuff for cheap. I got a chrome through hull as well for a mod I am doing this winter and it seemed he got me a good deal.

    So Jim, you used 3/4 check valves? Does that defeat the purpose of having larger hose?
    Makes sense, a less mechanical design should be less likely to fail.

    I had originally thought about using a single drain pump for the bow sac and having it mounted in the bilge in front of the gas tank. I am rethinking this due to the lack of working space as the only access to this area it through the bilge vent hose holes in the storage consoles. I would also have to put a hole in each bulkhead for the drain hose. This would require more 2 additional barbed pass-thrus and other plumbing. For only $31 and faaaarrrrrrr less work, I can just add a 2nd drain pump and thru-hull.

    I still plan on installing an extra bilge pump in front of the gas tank anyway and that would further complicate the install of the drain pump.
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      tall
      I used the 1 inch check valves. I was just making a comment that the 3/4 inch check valves are much smaller.
      Let it be!!!

      Comment


        Jim,

        Had an idea to solve your non-priming pumps. If there is room, www.flexpvc.com has 2" check valves and barb/slip fitting. If you could mount it in the intake hose between the mushroom and manifold, it would hold water in the manifold and pumps and may prevent vapor lock.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by chpthril; 11-15-2007, 01:58 AM.
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        Comment


          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          Jim,

          Had an idea to solve your non-priming pumps. If there is room, www.flexpvc.com has 2" check valves and barb/slip fitting. If you could mount it in the intake hose between the mushroom and manifold, it would hold water in the manifold and pumps and may prevent vapor lock.
          That may be the ticket. But has anyone heard if that is no longer an issue with the intake hole being higher up the transom? So that would only be a fix for guys with the older lower hole?
          Be excellent to one another.

          Comment


            Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
            That may be the ticket. But has anyone heard if that is no longer an issue with the intake hole being higher up the transom? So that would only be a fix for guys with the older lower hole?
            With the curvature of the transom, can they drill any higher with out being right under the swim platform
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

            Comment


              OK, Let's take a look at Jim's hole.

              I thought it would sound funny to say that.

              As you can see, he has quite a bit more space to move the intake hole up or down the transom, and only an inch or 2 is all that would be needed to make sure the water can get in and out. Didn't someone argue counterintuitively that the hole needs to be lower, not higher? Now I have myself confused.

              Be excellent to one another.

              Comment


                But look at the back side of the thru-hull in the 2nd pic. If you go too much higher, the nut will not seat flush against the transom all the way around.

                http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...95&postcount=4

                Higher then the manifold will allow the air to flow out the thru-hull when the bout is in the water. Lower then the manifold traps the air in the manifold.
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                Comment


                  BTW, why didn't he put it on the port side? Then he wouldn't have had to reroute the bilge pump.

                  He does have a little bit of room for it to go higher it looks, but not much, due to the inside curve, like chpthrl said.

                  I think I still like the bottom through hull.
                  Be excellent to one another.

                  Comment


                    The problem on my boat is just above where the thru hull is was not flat. The port side was flat as can be. I had a little room to go higher and I definately should have gone a little more to the center. Kind of scary though as you never exactly know the clearance. I thought about the port side but there was some reason that I cannot think of now why I didn't

                    I like the idea but at this time I am not going to put the check valve in. As the small person that I am , i cannot lay on my back again in that storage are fighting to get the hose over the barb. with no leverage and the heat gun. I am going to try a few other things first and save that as a last resort
                    Let it be!!!

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                      Jim,

                      Had an idea to solve your non-priming pumps. If there is room, www.flexpvc.com has 2" check valves and barb/slip fitting. If you could mount it in the intake hose between the mushroom and manifold, it would hold water in the manifold and pumps and may prevent vapor lock.
                      The only problem with this check valve is that it's spring loaded. It takes a fair amount of force to get your initial prime.
                      Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by dogbert View Post
                        The only problem with this check valve is that it's spring loaded. It takes a fair amount of force to get your initial prime.
                        Good point Dog. They do have a flapper valve but say it's not a 100% seal, so it may drain back between outings and leave you with the same vapor lock condition

                        Jim, which sac is being filled off the 3rd pump, from the mushroom, on the manifold. That's where the air is collecting since it's the highest point. I'm wondering if you were to remove that check valve above it, would it allow the air to percolate through the pump and up the line. This would allow water to fill in behind the air and thus allow the pumps to prime up.
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                        Comment


                          The farthest pump forward is for the bow sac. I think I have to be close to level on the thru hull to the pump. When i had just 3 people in the boat I had no issues filling. All you extra peeps in the back had to throw it off a little. From now on everyone in the bow when its fill time. Problem solved Most likely if I get motivated I am going to shorten the thru hull to the manifold line to move the manifold back. I am going to put the check valves closer the to bags and make sure the pump outlets are straight up. We shall see. Definately going to add another bilge pump and move my drain pumps into the battery compartments.
                          Last edited by xpjim1; 11-16-2007, 06:02 PM.
                          Let it be!!!

                          Comment


                            Speaking of moving the pumps to the battery compartments...I was kind of geared up to do this, but have this problem with the thing the back wall is mounted to. The drain hose would have to go up and over it through the wall and straight back into the compartment. I don't like the idea of the drain hose going up, I may not get the sack empty.

                            How did you propose to do it?

                            You see the bump it would have to go over?
                            Be excellent to one another.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                              Speaking of moving the pumps to the battery compartments...I was kind of geared up to do this, but have this problem with the thing the back wall is mounted to. The drain hose would have to go up and over it through the wall and straight back into the compartment. I don't like the idea of the drain hose going up, I may not get the sack empty.

                              How did you propose to do it?

                              You see the bump it would have to go over?
                              I am going to use the quick connect elbow then hose and another elbow in the left hand corner where that ridge does not go all the way across. Sounds good on paper. I thing that the drain hole is already elevated a little so I do not think it would matter much.
                              Let it be!!!

                              Comment


                                Jimbo my man, got another ??? for ya. Or anyone else that knows.

                                Where did you get your "ballast" labelled switches, and do you remember the part number? Poked all around the net and cant find the labelled ones any where.

                                Thanks once again.
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