DIY Ballast Install

[xpjim1]

While I do not have all the pictures yet, I thought I would begin detailing my installation all in one place. I just need to clean up the wiring, attach a few quick connect fittings and attach to the fat sacs. Water test will be on 4/29/07 and hopefully I will not have a call into my insurance company.

Here is a picture of the partial parts. I chose the Tsunami 1200 pumps and used 2 inch pvc for the mainfold. The Majority of the hose is 1 inch and I used stainless steel thru hulls for the drain/vent and went thru the transom for the fill.

[xpjim1]

Manifold

First off sorry about the small pictures as you cannot use pictures that are in another post.

The first picture is the 2 inch manifold and the tsunami pumps. The pump assembly goes pump, 1 1/4 plumbing mack washer into a 2 inch to 1 1/4 PVC adapter and held in with the pump nut. I siliconed the nut to the bottom of the adapter. This works just like a tru hull fitting and it allows you to adjust the pump a little when installing the manifold.

Second picture is I made room for future expansion if I want to add a fourth bag on the starboard side. I am finding out many of my daughter friends are goofy (foot). All teenagers are goofy.

Third picture is the completed manifold. I actually did not use the elbow fittings and attached 1 1/4 inch hose directly over the threaded outlet. This allowed a little more movement in where the manifold fits under the motor mounts. Pictures on this next week.

[xpjim1]

Drain and Vent Thru Hulls

The first thing I need to emphasize is to make a test hole in something besides your boat before drilling the holes. Do not believe anything written on the package. The first photo shows the holes I cut. The first is using a 1 1/2 inch hole saw like the package states. No test hole, went straight for the boat. Way too big. The next 2 cutouts are the correct size of 1 1/4, the fourth cutout is the transon, and the fifth is one I drilled thru the floor to bring the hose up into the bow.

The second photo is the first hole I drilled. Way to big. To center the thru hull in the hole for the proper seal I used some 1 1/4 hose and put it over the thru hull. Very snug fit but the thru hull was centered.

Third Picture is the installed bow thru hull.

Fouth Picture is the installed Starboard thru hull next to the bilge outlet.

Fifth Picture is the installed port thru hull

[xpjim1]

Transom Thru Hull

This hole by far was my most troublesome. As you can see from my picture in the previous post, I had a few test holes. One problem was the inside of the transom on the starboard side was not flat like on the port side. The other issue is that you have to relocate the bilge pump. I actually missed by about 1/2 inch from where I wanted to be which made the bilge pump a tight fit.

The first picture is the installed thru hull esterior shot

Second Picture is the inside shot

Third picture is with the hose and bilge pump relocated

[xpjim1]

Switches

For the switches I just replaced 2 of the switches in my dash with on-off-on switches. I already had one for the tower lights which I am not planning on installing.

Basically the swithces in the dash are already wired, which made this part easier than I thought it would be. I ran the wires down the steering cable hole and on top of the gas tank to the engine. Hardest part was catching the wires ftom the hole as the only tool I had was an oar. Got it done though. Test wired all the pumps and all switches worked as designed. I actually ran 2 ground wires to the pumps, one for the drain pumps and one for the fill pumps.

I had bought three fill/drain switches and it appears I had misplaced one. That is why the middle switch still has the tower light notation.

[xpjim1]

More later

Next week I will have pictures of the installed mainfold, hoses with check valves, ballast bags and hopefully pictures of the boat unweighted and weighted.

If I knew what I was doing this job would not have been as difficult as I made it. Normally I am not a DIY type of person but what the heck.

[Moki]

Nice job Jim, Thanks for sharing!!

[G-MONEY]

xpjim1


Nice Job...........Since you are an expert now on ballast installs,,,,,,,,, do you want to do mine..........Same boat so it would be easy for you.....

[da.bell]

xpjim1


Nice Job...........Since you are an expert now on ballast installs,,,,,,,,, do you want to do mine..........Same boat so it would be easy for you.....

And probably cleaner to do since he is more familiar with installing now.

[dbro]

Nice Job on the install and pictures.

Can you fill on the go with the intake in the transom?

When you are all done could we get a list of parts and fill times.

Thanks,

Dbro

[evil0ne]

xpjim1


Nice Job...........Since you are an expert now on ballast installs,,,,,,,,, do you want to do mine..........Same boat so it would be easy for you.....

Maybe you can do it as a demo at the Lake Mead reunion in October.

Onto a more realistic question, how much money in parts only to duplicate your system?

[da.bell]

^^^^^^

I second that question... Would be interesting if we can afford it....

[xpjim1]

Thanks everyone.
I am updating my parts and cost list and will post the cost hopefully tonight.

Dbro - No filling on the fly. If all goes as planned fill times should be 8 minutes.

I had such high plans for doing some clean custom stuff, but once again my vision did not match my execution. I do not think I will do this again!!

[chpthril]

Xpjim,

Install is really looking good, thanks for the info. Couple of ?'s

1) is the female side if your quick-connects self-closing when the male end is detached?

2) would the female side of the quick-connect attach to the bag?

[xpjim1]

The male screws into the bag, and the female is attached to the fill, drain and vent hose. The quick connects are not self closing when detached
http://www.fatsac.com/FlyHigh/FlyHighSacs.html

Go down to valves and fittings and look at the flow rite connectors