Winterize 2004 22V (Marine Power 5.7 MFI)

[hilljroberts]

So I've spent about three weeks going through posts about how best to winterize my engine. I've built my own consolidated instructions but I'd like to validate them with the tige crew since I don't want to spend the next 5 months worrying that I missed something.

Some background info: I live in upstate NY (it has gotten below -20 in the past), so I definitely need to use antifreeze. When it comes to finding the drain plug locations, this is where it gets tricky for me, any post I search either has pictures that are now invalid photobucket links, or discuss mercruiser engines. The ones that discuss Marine Power usually are newer boats than mine so I'm nervous I'll miss a step or a plug, so I want to confirm. I've only previously winterized Mercruiser I/Os. My boat is new to me, purchased from a dealer with minimal repair history on the boat, so I don't know what was done on it/when. I'm going to replace the impeller in the spring. (I don't have time this year to do it), and then replace going forward every other year. Trans fluid smells fine and looks clean, I'm not going to change it this year, assume it was done before the dealer sold it.


So here goes:

1) Run the motor for 10 minutes to warm up the oil.
2a) Fogging not necessary due to Fuel Injected Motor. (Do I need spray something in with the sparkplugs or something?)
2b) Jack front of boat really high to improve drainage.
3a) Change Oil/Oil Filter (use SAE 40 for Marine Power 5.7). Suck oil from drain hose with extractor fitting purchased at Home Depot/Lowes.
tige-oil.jpg
3b) Is there a fuel/water separating filter? Does it need to be replaced? Where is it?
4) Drain Block and Manifolds. I see:
a.) Three rusty "T" screws. Two in the bottom center of the manifolds, and one on the port side base of the engine.
tige-tscrew.jpg
b.) A brass bolt under each corner of the manifolds for a total of four bolts.
tige-manifold.jpg
tige-manifold2.jpg
c.) On the starboard side of engine base there's what I assume to be a knock sensor instead of a t-screw should I touch this or leave alone? (tscrew in red, knock sensor in yellow)
tige-knock.jpg
5) Drain Trans Cooler hose and drain into bilge.
6) Tighten all plugs/reattach trans hose
7) Remove hoses from thermostat housing and fill with antifreeze. Re-mount hoses.
8) Grease the steering and throttle cables with gear oil. (are there zirks for this? Or just hit the bare cable locations?)
9) Remove Batteries and place damprid (no ballast or heaters)

Any help/clarifications/suggestions are appreciated....

[lee]

Sounds pretty good but I would fog the engine.

[hilljroberts]

Sounds pretty good but I would fog the engine.

Thanks! Do you have a fuel injected engine? Mercruiser doesn't want you to fog MFI engines, Marine Power service manual doesn't comment on it.


Maybe I'll clarify my open questions:
a.) Is fogging necessary on MFI engines? I guess I'm looking to poll the group as our engine manufacturers aren't always clear on this.
b.) On the Marine Power 5.7, is there a fuel/water separating filter? Does it need to be replaced? Where is it?
c.) Which/how many bolts do you drain? I'm hoping for a more specific answer than "All of them"
d.) Are there zirks for the steering and throttle cables?
e.) Is SAE 40 the oil that everyone uses?

[chpthril]

Trans fluid smells fine and looks clean,

The boat also have a V-drive, with its own reservoir. Its the blue assembly (trans is silver) and uses 30W non-detergent motor oil

As to fogging. This is more about protecting the combustion chambers, etc, from rust and corrosion, and not so much about the the engine's fuel deliver type. How you introduce the fogging oil, is certainly a debate centered around the engines fuel delivery type. Through the spark plugs seems to be the safest method.

im a fan of multi-weight engine oil. Better cold start pumpability.

Fogging needs to be after the oil change is complete. Oil change is complete after the engine is fired up and ran for at least 30 seconds to circulate the new clean oil. Doing this after the fog oil, blows out the fog oil.

The knock sensor IS the block drain on that side and must be removed to drain that side of the block

I have found that its easier to pull one of the hoses off the trans cooler to drain, rather then remove and reinstall the drain plug

Pouring A/F into a water pump/thermo housing hose does not get any into the exhaust manifolds, just an FYI

Im not a fan of removing batteries. Too many issues in the spring with rogue cables overlooked or crossed cables blowing things.

Yes, zirk on the rudder box.

[hilljroberts]

The boat also have a V-drive, with its own reservoir. Its the blue assembly (trans is silver) and uses 30W non-detergent motor oil

Yikes.... Didn't even know there was a third (but definitely makes sense). Ok I've done some more research and it looks like you suck that one out the dipstick hole. I know where the engine oil dipstick and trans dipstick is, I guess I gotta go hunting for a third dipstick.

As to fogging, Through the spark plugs seems to be the safest method.

Ok, so i'll just remove each sparkplug and spray fogger in there once winterized.

im a fan of multi-weight engine oil. Better cold start pumpability.

Ok. Planning to use 15W-40 then.

The knock sensor IS the block drain on that side and must be removed to drain that side of the block

I have found that its easier to pull one of the hoses off the trans cooler to drain, rather then remove and reinstall the drain plug

Pouring A/F into a water pump/thermo housing hose does not get any into the exhaust manifolds, just an FYI

Yup plan to pull trans cooler hose. So three t-bolts and the knock sensor, can I ignore the four other brass bolts on the manifold then? If filling through the thermo housing doesn't hit the manifold, should i just suck up 5 gallons of AF through the fake a lake? Is there a better way to insure it got hot enough for the thermostat to open? That was my major concern.

[JohnnieMo]

FWIW, NOCO builds a nice solar powered battery tender that can keep your batteries filled during the winter. I like the NOCO products as they are "smart" and don't just try to pour current into a battery that doesn't require it. I personally have a NOCO dual bank charger installed in the boat, but I have access to shore power, so it works for me. If you don't the solar powered charger is a great option. They are under $70.

https://no.co/products/solar/rigid

[chpthril]

With a block thats empty of all water, it will fill regardless of the thermostat.

[hilljroberts]

With a block thats empty of all water, it will fill regardless of the thermostat.

Perfect, so I'll just open all drain plugs and then fill via fake-a-lake. Thanks!


And @JohnnieMo, I added the NOCO dual charger this summer... money well spent. Unfortunately solar will do me no good as I shove my boat in the back of a barn....