Is there a how to on oil change for Raptor engine Z3?

[Epic]

Shouldn't be too difficult, but wondering if anyone has submitted instruction for this yet.

[JLG]

Here is a link to a manual for the raptor in case you didn't get one with your boat. The process is pretty simple and has plenty of pics in this manual for the everyday diy'er

http://www.indmar.com/Libraries/Manu...nual.sflb.ashx

[SKSailboatshop]

Its pretty easy! Warm the engine up and then shut if off and take the hose for the oil that is clipped to the side of the block and run it out of the drain plug of the boat. The oil will flow out pretty easily when warm, we also use a little 12v sucker pump thing to get it all out. The oil filter is remote and comes fairly easily...most of the time. We actually had to warantty an oil filter housing because the guys at Malibu/Indmar got a little over zealous putting it on lol. Then dump your oil in and measure it once the boat it level.

[EngineNut]

There is an error in that manual. The manual says the Raptor engine takes 6 quarts but it is actually supposed to be 8 quarts. The oil capacity was corrected in the 2016 model manual.

Larry Engelbert
Indmar Marine Engines

[Surf75]

I ran my drain line out the garboard hole and opened the end and nothing came out! I need to check why. I had to pump out about 5 quarts on my Indmar 350 with the SORRIEST PIECE OF JUNK fluid transfer pump in THE WHOLE WORLD. Spent an hour pumping, I could have made a gallon of spit quicker. But it's all I had at the moment. Learn from my mistake- buy the $50 oil/ATF fluid pump, don't go to O'reilley's and get talked into the $14 POS.

[JLG]

I ran my drain line out the garboard hole and opened the end and nothing came out! I need to check why. I had to pump out about 5 quarts on my Indmar 350 with the SORRIEST PIECE OF JUNK fluid transfer pump in THE WHOLE WORLD. Spent an hour pumping, I could have made a gallon of spit quicker. But it's all I had at the moment. Learn from my mistake- buy the $50 oil/ATF fluid pump, don't go to O'reilley's and get talked into the $14 POS.

Most likely the engine wasn't heated or hot enough as it should flow out with no issues. Perhaps the hose has a kink or loop in it?? Gravity draining isn't the fastest method but it does work if engine is hot. I change all other fluids and wax while my engine oil drains which gives it plenty of time.

Spend money on a good mityvac and you wont regret it!

[SKSailboatshop]

yup make sure you warm the engine up and then it flows nicely.

[IDBoating]

MityVac 7400. ~$70 shipped to your door. You'll never look back, except to kick yourself for not buying one earlier.

You can connect it straight to the oil pan hose via the threaded fitting. A few minutes at the hardware store will get you the fitting needed to connect the MityVac's hose to the threads. Oil changes then become a 5-10 minute affair that you can do on the water. We do this several times each season. Easier than changing the oil in a land vehicle.

A MityVac 7400 should come as standard equipment with every inboard sold.

[Epic]

These engines can be run while not in water?

[JLG]

These engines can be run while not in water?

Yes but the exhaust and fresh water parts do need water or they will overheat. Engine and heater are closed cooling only

[Epic]

Yes but the exhaust and fresh water parts do need water or they will overheat. Engine and heater are closed cooling only

Ok. How do I supply water to the parts that require fresh water? If it is possible. My last boat had a water hose adapter. I don't see that on the Tige.

Thanks again.

[Epic]

Thanks for the help, everyone. Looks like the transmission fluid should be changed as well. Since Z3 is V-drive that means I need 5W40 oil for transmission, correct?

Also, I didn't notice any notes for maintainence on the V-Drive. Any fluid change required on that?

[IDBoating]

Ok. How do I supply water to the parts that require fresh water? If it is possible. My last boat had a water hose adapter. I don't see that on the Tige.

Look up "Fake-a-Lake", which looks like a toilet plunger with a hose connector on it. You fit this against the bottom of your hull over the raw water thruhull and turn on the hose, then start the engine. I personally don't run higher than idle RPM's when doing this.

There are also kits that will fit a hose connection directly into your incoming cooling hose, which would give you what you had on your earlier boat (our earlier boat had this, too). IMHO those are just another part to break or fail in some way, so I keep it simple and use a Fake-a-Lake. To each his own.

Finally: Don't engage the transmission while on the trailer. The strut bearing expects to be in water for cooling. Running the propshaft while out of the water risks overheating that bearing.

[IDBoating]

Thanks for the help, everyone. Looks like the transmission fluid should be changed as well.

Yes, especially if you run heavy ballast. We change our transmission fluid every 50 hours, every time we change the engine oil. That's what our transmission manufacturer recommended for a heavily ballasted boat, so that's what we do. Transmission fluid is a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt transmission.

Since Z3 is V-drive that means I need 5W40 oil for transmission, correct?

Depends on the transmission. Ours calls for Dexron III. Others call for traditional motor oil. Check the manual or the plate on the transmission itself.

Also, I didn't notice any notes for maintainence on the V-Drive. Any fluid change required on that?

Again, check the manual. Ours is supposedly maintenance free but I just changed it last year for good measure. I figured after 400 hours of service it wouldn't hurt to give it fresh fluid. Take good care of your equipment and it will take good care of you!

[dom w. forte]

Make sure you use the proper weight in the engine do not use a thicker oil it will damage the Raptor , and same goes for v-drive and trans.