Rival Ballast Install

[talltigeguy]

Now the discharge and vent system is fully plumbed. The fill system was going to require the biggest commitment as far as making the boat unusable (you have to tear things apart), so I waited to do that until the last. I 'll present it now, however so that it might flow better.

First you need access to the area in front of the transmission behind the gas tank. The rear seat cusion was easy to remove and the subsequent pieces just screwed on.

[talltigeguy]

Then that rear seat area just lifts right out and exposes the tranny and engine. The rear of the gas tank is just under the edge of the floor.

[talltigeguy]

Here is where you have to decide where to put the through hull fitting for the intake. I learned on one of the other discussion boards that there could be a concern that the intake should not be located directly in front of the perfect pass speedo, because it might cause enough turbulence to make it not work as well. Honestly, I did not know if that is true, but it made some sense, so I didn't want to take any chances. I spoke to one of the guys at Rival, he recommended that I put the through hull scoop opposite the perfect pass paddle wheel. He was amazed that my paddle wheel was located on the starboard side (usually the best place to put the scoop).

Note the black unit on the floor - that is my perfect pass paddle wheel.

[Domsz06]

your system didn't come with check valves? wow, rival really has gone down hill. Mine had check valves with it.

[talltigeguy]

The manifold for the Rival system is neat. It comes with 3 pumps all put in place and then rhinolined for durability. It is recommended that you put the gate valve on and then install the unit all at once.

Because I had to put my through hull on the opposite side and run my hose over, I needed another pipe nipple that was not included. Another trip to the hardware store! Neither lowe's nor Home Depot had 2 inch pipe nipples that were plastic, so I just used a metal one that they did have. Anyone want to comment on that?

Now that the manifold is all in place, I was ready to drill the scoop hole. This scoop is one bad hombre. They call it a 1.5 inch scoop in the literature, but it is actually bigger. It is about twice the size of the scoop for the boat engine cooling system.

The instructions said that I should drill a 2 inch hole in the bottom of the boat. At this point, I am pretty nervous, and I am beginning not to trust my instructions to some degree. So I drill a hole with my 2 inch hole saw into some wood and put the scoop onto it. Check this out:

[talltigeguy]

The hole is looking too big for the scoop. I was thinking that the hole should be reasonable snug. I think that there is a lot of pressure under there when the boat is under way.

Look again:

[Domsz06]

Nice write up!!

[talltigeguy]

I'm off to the hardware store (again)

The scoop is really much closer to 1 and 3/4 inches! I don't feel comfortable with that much gap, so with the hole saw I already own, I drill a 1 3/4 inch hole in the wood. The scoop wouldn't fit through it. I think that I might be too anal, but now I'm off to the hardware store to buy a 1 7/8 hole saw. Remember that I already bought the 2 inch hole saw according to their list. Now I have used it, so I really can't take it back. I decided to do this over the holiday weekend, so I don't have any support to call on and ask if it really matters.

I drill the new 1 7/8 hole in the wood and it fits perfect. note the 2 inch and 1 3/4 inch hole next to the one the scoop is going through.

[xpjim1]

Great write up so far. Looks like Rival is not consistent in measurements. The scoop looks like 1 1/2 inch inside diamater. Cant wait for next step.

You should document everything and sell this to Rival as the installation and parts required for installation manual

[talltigeguy]

I measure the spot on the inside of the hull about 17 times and try to guage whether it will come out on the right spot. It needs to be flat, so I check it with a square and my spot looks good to go. I need to be able to put a right angle fitting on top of the through hull scoop, so I need to be far enough away from the gas tank. I first drilled a small hole from the inside of the boat to make sure I am in the right spot.

The gas tank is shaped sort of like the state of utah, but reversed. the metal on the right is the first portion of the gas tank.

[Bog]

great walkthrough you have too much patience! I would be swearing and breaking stuff by step 2

[talltigeguy]

This is why you usually always make the hole from the outside in. If you go from the inside, you will get some cracking of the fiberglass. This is not a big deal, the scoop hole will take that out.
This is the same hole, but from the bottom of the boat.

[talltigeguy]

If I have to make one more trip to the store, I am gonna break something.

As I climb under the boat to drill the hole, I knew I was going to get showered with microbits of fiberglass.

Don't forget these. I once picked a piece of fiberglass out of my boat dealer's eye. I know it wasn't very comfortable.

[talltigeguy]

BAM!

[talltigeguy]

just in case you are curious - it was about 5/8 inch thick.