Changing On/Off Switch over to 1/2/OFF Switch

[carcrz]

Any tips on switching everything over to the new switch? I tried the "search" but I guess it was too vague because I got TONS of non-related posts.

[chpthril]

Are you leaving the diode isolator in place?

[Ewok]

Are you wanting to have a central switch to turn everything off? If so the 1/2 switch might not be the way to go. I just added a second on/off switch for my house battery in addition to the factory on/off switch for the starting battery.

[carcrz]

I want to be able have the option - all on, 1 battery on (accessories only), and accessories off.

[chpthril]

In order to use a standard dual-battery switch, like a OFF/1/BOTH/2, as a master disconnect, ALL loads need to be wired to the "C" post of the switch. When you do this, the system becomes entirely manual. What ever battery you have the switch to, all loads will draw off that battery. This can require switching the switch either when dropping anchor for a spell, or rotating to the other battery when you pull anchor to motor away.

Since your boat has a diode isolator, you could do a semi-automatic system, where both batteries receive an alternator charge while the engine is running and house loads only draw off the house battery, but, those house would need to still be wired to the house battery as they are no. So at the end of the day, the switch will not function as a master on/off.

[Brigzoj]

When you do this, the system becomes entirely manual. What ever power supply you have the change to, all loads will draw off that power supply. This can require switching the change either when dropping core for a cause, or spinning to the other power supply when you pull core to motor away.

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[Ewok]

Sounds like to want to do what I did, all the accessories come off the house battery and the starter battery is only used for the engine and bilge pump. I added the extra on/off switch to ensure that all the accessories are OFF when I put the boat away and it has worked great so far. When I am running the boat the alternator charges both batteries with the diode so I never have to worry about switching batteries with the 1/2/all/off switch, I had this on my last boat and it was a pain to always remember to switch the batteries on the way home so they both get a charge. Now all I do is turn on both switches when I put the boat in the water and I turn both off when I pull out at the end of the day. I have an on-board dual bank charger as well so when I get home I plug in the boat for a day and the batteries stay happy.

[Coop]

I have the 1/2/all/off switch set up as a master disconnect as Mike describes, and I have two house batteries wired to the "2" position and one starter battery wired to the "1". I do need to remember to switch to the 2 when at the cove playing music and then back to "all" when driving, but I like being able to just switch it all off at the end of the trip to avoid any loss of charge during storage periods. Also, I like having all the batteries available for starting in case any one of them goes down.

I'm also liking Ewok's concept, though, because it always charges all the batteries while driving. Under that setup, can you draw from the house battery to start the boat? (If for some reason you lost the charge in the starting battery.)

One more question on my set up (hope I'm not hijacking the thread): I've been told that I should not switch the settings while the engine is running because that can cause electrical problems. Is that right? If so, can I switch it while it's in "accessories on" mode, but the engine is not running?

[chpthril]

Coop,

What brand and model switch do you have?

[Coop]

It's Perko. I'm not positive on the model, but I think it's either an 8501 or 8503. (As I'm reading the descriptions online, it looks like that could make a difference in terms of alternator damage due to inadvertent switching.)

[chpthril]

Most, but not all, marine dual-battery switches are what we call a "make before break" switch. This means that the contacts are made to the next position before the contact to the previous position are broken. This means than while in all ON positions, the alternator will always see the load of a battery. So if the switch is a make before break, you are ok to switch between 1 BOTH and 2 while the engine is running.

Now, OFF is OFF, so never turn to OFF with engine running.

[Coop]

Thanks, Mike. I never switch OFF while running (at least not on purpose). With my old boat (same Perko switch), I would switch between 1/2/ALL while running, and it never seemed to cause a problem. This time around, my dealer told me not to, so I've been avoiding it just to be safe. Nice to hear it's probably not a problem.

[Ewok]

Coop,

If I wanted to use the house battery to start the engine I would have to use jumper cables or move the engine battery cables to the house battery. I do carry a long set of jumper cables in case I need them or someone else does.