Originally posted by Wakeman22
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostThere are a number of examples over on the BuCrew site. Most of them seem to need to do with just the addition of piggy-backed 750s
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Originally posted by Wakeman22 View Post
I do believe that the rear sacks were trapping air and balooning some. That was evident when the hatch was opened. In fact I burped the bag to let out the trapped air. I have my fill line in the rear port and the vent in the front. They may need to be reversed to help in the balloon effect.
When do you plan to go out again?
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I plan to go out again this week. My girlfriend has Thursdays and Fridays off. So I plan to go one of those days. My heater and shower install should be done by then so it is a test day as well.
The bowing of my walls was very prominent and I had already resigned myself to reinforcing them. Just did not get it done.
I took a lot of pictures while I was installing the heater, hoses and wireing as well as the ducts. However the memory card was not in the camera so I have only a few pics at this time. More will come later as I finish the install.
skippa I felt the sealer and mine is hard. It is a little soft like hard rubber but not tackky at all. chp had already told me it would be ok to get it in the water and I would have if I was able too.Wake Up or Stay On Shore!
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Here is shot of the routing of the bow fill hose, the wiring to the fill pumps in the blue and the wiring to the heater is in the red cover. The fill hose comes up this area and goes over the breaker box and through the hole in the helm's wall where the steering cables goes through. This worked better for me than going up to the venting duct work in this mid storage area.Attached FilesWake Up or Stay On Shore!
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For the heater and shower install I used this port on the manifold for the hot water outlet to the heater and to the shower valve. I installed a valve to shut off the water supply should I need to. I believe I am going to go back and reinstall the setup to be a 4" riser then the tee and a valve on each side of the tee so the water supply can be shut off to either fixture.Wake Up or Stay On Shore!
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For the heater return line and used a Y fitting that goes into the raw water intake line just before the pump. This hose is a suction hose with a spring in it so it does not collapse. I put the Y fitting just before the pumps nipple and used a short piece of hose to connect the two.Attached FilesWake Up or Stay On Shore!
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Ok, finally got more time to continue on the upgrades. Today I got all of the shower complete except the final outlet hose hookup to the pump. I need to pick up another fitting. I changed the hot water outlet from the manifold to a rizer and then a tee with a valve control on each side. This will allow me to shut off the supply to eitherv the heater or shower.Attached FilesWake Up or Stay On Shore!
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I placed the pump next to the taps pump.. You can see the fitting that needs changing out to fit the hose that goes to the nozzle. I placed the mixing valve in the center activety center hatch. I used a coiled hose with an adjustable nozzle for the spay head. I am waiting for the switches for both the heater and the shower and the install will be complete. I hooked up temporary switches to test everything and this weekend I will do the water test.Wake Up or Stay On Shore!
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Next I turned my attention to the side panels and reinforced them. In the first pic you can see where the bottum u-channel came off the floor on the first water test of the ballast. Of corse you can see why. The screws are just too short. I installed longer screws and more to hold the channel down. I also removed the panel that covers the fuel hose lines. This will give the sack a little more room. I also bolted the front side panel to the larger one. I will at a later time get some u-channel to apply to the back of the side pannels to stiffen them.Wake Up or Stay On Shore!
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