Winter Upgrades

[Ewok]

It was a very successful water test because we did not sink! The thru-hull connections were bone dry, just a few little leaks that Wakeman described above.

The draining from his midsacs was very visible in the bag and in the clear tubing, it was running out the fill lines, right through the pumps. Wakeman might try switching the fill and vent lines on those bags but a check valve there will fix the issue. (Chpthrill, I'll be sending you an email soon to order some check valves for my system.)

When installing his system, Wakeman heated up the hose and then used pliers to stretch the hose out a little so that it would slide on the fitting easier. He thinks he might have stretched the hose too much and now the single SS clamps are not holding it perfectly tight. He is going to try for double SS clamps in those locations, just like we see on the water hoses for the engine cooling system. I did not think the system had enough pressure to leak the way they did, but it happened.

Anyway, for 70 connections only 5 leaked, and only one of those leaks was more than a few drips.

The black clips for the drain pump looked good Mike, the only thing Wakeman could think of was that he rushed putting the bag in and might not have clipped it in all the way. After we clipped it in again, it held fine. It was pretty obvious when it started leaking though, the carpet started getting very wet and then puddles started forming and then you could see the water coming out the side panel.

Wakemans new bilge pump ops checked good too

I had a great time and probably learned more than I helped, thanks again for the invite Wakeman22.

[chpthril]

When installing his system, Wakeman heated up the hose and then used pliers to stretch the hose out a little so that it would slide on the fitting easier. He thinks he might have stretched the hose too much and now the single SS clamps are not holding it perfectly tight. He is going to try for double SS clamps in those locations, just like we see on the water hoses for the engine cooling system. I did not think the system had enough pressure to leak the way they did, but it happened

It possible that the pliers left an indention on the inside of the heated rubber hose, thus leaving a path for the water to leak, even with little pressure, just flow. It may be a simple removing the hose, heating back up a little, then getting it clamped back down on the hose barb before it cools.

[skippabcool]

Sounds to me like you did a good job with your install Wake

A couple minor things and you will be set. I am hoping that mine will go as smooth as yours.

I had my U channel come up. I got some longer screws and put it. I will see if that does anything. There were only two screws and I am thinking about putting in at least one more.

On bulging at the divider I found that if i scoot the bag over to the outside wall, that was when I was manually filling it, it seemed to not bother the divider as much.

[Wakeman22]

Chp after I made a lot of conections I started to clamp them right after they were attached while they were still hot. That seemed to work very well. A few that cooled before clamping I heated and then clamped. Especially when I was using the black nylon clamps. I believe the few that did leak were the first few I did and probably let them cool before clampming. I do not believe the pliers indented it any. It may have been that I over sized it and the clamp could not compress it completely. My thought was also that the harder gray coil and the clear tubbing created an exit point similar to the way threads do when attaching hose to threaded fittings.

For anyone else I would reccommend practicing on a few connections first before making the first real ones. Once I got a few done it became much easier to get it right. Experience is golden.

[skippabcool]

I touched the sealant around the thru hulls to see if it was hard, it seemed sticky and not really hard. Is yours the same? I don't know what it is supposed to be like.

[Wakeman22]

Sounds to me like you did a good job with your install Wake

A couple minor things and you will be set. I am hoping that mine will go as smooth as yours.

I had my U channel come up. I got some longer screws and put it. I will see if that does anything. There were only two screws and I am thinking about putting in at least one more.

On bulging at the divider I found that if i scoot the bag over to the outside wall, that was when I was manually filling it, it seemed to not bother the divider as much.

I believe you are very correct about the u-channel. Mine came out and only had 2 short screws. I am going to put longer ones in and at least a few more. I could wiggle them by hand before and felt it was a week point. I am not sure but I believe the stringer is under that area and the screws should probably go in that far. The board that the floor is made of is rather soft material. IMO.

I am also going to try your idea of moving the sack over some. On the port side it did not semm as much of an issue.

[Wakeman22]

I touched the sealant around the thru hulls to see if it was hard, it seemed sticky and not really hard. Is yours the same? I don't know what it is supposed to be like.

My sealent took well over a week to setup. It was soft and real sticky for at least that long and we had some warm days. I will feel it here in a little bit and report back. Have not touched it since I got all the pumps plumbed.

[IDBoating]

It possible that the pliers left an indention on the inside of the heated rubber hose

If he used needle nosed pliers this would be even more likely. When I did it, I used linesman's pliers that have wide jaws.

Another trick I used was taking a spare hose fitting from the 405FC pumps and sanding off the hose ribs. This left a smooth, slightly smaller OD with a beveled front edge. Heat the hose, spread with pliers, shove onto the lubed fitting, let cool. This produces a round, slightly enlarged hose ID. It's still a bit of work to fit it onto the actual pump fitting that still has the ribs, but that's what you want - a tight fitting that is likely watertight without a hose clamp. The clamp then provides mechanical strain relief.

[Wakeman22]

Chp. The mid sacks were siphoning back out the fill pumps. The vent worked well but I believe it was a siphon effecy. A simple check valve at that location will take care of that.

I am not sure why the pump came off but will further investigate. It came off at the male female union.

I do believe that the rear sacks were trapping air and balooning some. That was evident when the hatch was opened. In fact I burped the bag to let out the trapped air. I have my fill line in the rear port and the vent in the front. They may need to be reversed to help in the balloon effect.

Over all not too bad. Just a few issues to work out. One thing is did notice and Ewok and I discussed this is that the quick connects stand somewhat high and contact the seat soon. Are there any fittings that can get this space minimized?

[Wakeman22]

If he used needle nosed pliers this would be even more likely. When I did it, I used linesman's pliers that have wide jaws.

Another trick I used was taking a spare hose fitting from the 405FC pumps and sanding off the hose ribs. This left a smooth, slightly smaller OD with a beveled front edge. Heat the hose, spread with pliers, shove onto the lubed fitting, let cool. This produces a round, slightly enlarged hose ID. It's still a bit of work to fit it onto the actual pump fitting that still has the ribs, but that's what you want - a tight fitting that is likely watertight without a hose clamp. The clamp then provides mechanical strain relief.

I felt that needlenose would do that so I used lineman pliers. On a few fittings up in the storage areas I did use an extra fitting like you mentioned. I read that in one of your threads and that helped to. However the earlier ones I made were the most problematic.

[IDBoating]

Another issue was the jumbo surf sacks pushing on the engine panels and bowing them in. These will need stiffiners put on them.

I put two aluminum U-channels, running vertically, on the engine side of each panel (so they would not contact the sacs). I believe I used 1/2 inch channels and this was plenty to stiffen the walls.

[Wakeman22]

Well back out to the boat to continue on my winter upgrades. Thanks guys...

[Wakeman22]

I put two aluminum U-channels, running vertically, on the engine side of each panel (so they would not contact the sacs). I believe I used 1/2 inch channels and this was plenty to stiffen the walls.

You ran them vertical?

[IDBoating]

You ran them vertical?

Yep. I tried to find a photo but haven't located one so far.

I went vertical because the walls are supported only at the top and bottom. Therefore, with pressure applied the walls will stay anchored at the top and bottom and the sides will curve. If I ran the reinforcements horizontally, the walls could still curve that direction. But running them vertically prevents curvature along that axis.

Hope this helps!

[chpthril]

Hay guys, the regular-cure 5200 may be tacky for up to 5 days, but its good to go to be put into service after 24-48 depending on the temp and humidity. It will not wash away in the water, contact with moisture is part of the curing.